Question about 2002 Chevrolet Suburban

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Abs motor will not turn off. I finally pulled the fuse so that it wouldn't burn out. what might be the cause of the motor not cutting off?

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My truck did the same thing and I couldn't stop.
You have to find out which one is doing it and replace the hub assembly because the sensor is not working and that is what causes the abs to think the wheel is slipping.
The sensor is in the hub assembly.

Hope this helps

Posted on Sep 24, 2010


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the ABS is a system that allows wheels that have stopped turning under brakes to turn again momentarily
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you can disconnect power to the abs ( fuse ,relay) and the brakes will still operate normally except that when in extreme braking situations the wheels will lock up and steering control will be the same as pre abs cars ( side skid and not able to steer around an object)
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Vw polo abs light won't go off. I've replaced the 40 amp strip fuse located in the fuse comparment above the battery but it still hasn't gone off even thought the orginal fuse was blown. Anyone...

Well, first of all, did you fix the problem that caused the fuse to blow? Have you scanned you Antilock Brake System (ABS) module for fault codes? Since the computer is the one responsible for turning the light on, wouldn't you think that the computer would be the one to ask WHY it has turned the light on?

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The engine was off and the plastic parts of cables of an electric motor underneath the battery started burning with flame. I cut the cables and the car is working. What does this motor do?

If an ABS light turned on then your ABS pump burned up. If you have cruise control then these will go up in flames also. If the car has air suspension then the compressor may have burned up. Check these options and get back to me and I can give you an absolute answer if you like. Thanks, Rich

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The connection at the blower resistor on these model years had problems with poor connections.
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Abs light is on

Locate and pull the ABS pump fuse located in the power distribution center under the hood and CHECK IT TO SEE IF THE FUSE IS BAD. Basically you are looking for a fuse box with large amperage fuses and some relays. Look along the fender well in the engine compartment relatively close to the battery. It is a 60 amp fuse in most instances and should be clearly labeled "ABS" in the large fuse box with other similarly oversize fuses used for other high power subsystems. 
 All ABS systems are designed so that the solenoid valves in the ABS brake manifold are in safety "bypass" mode when powered down or when the ABS control module has been removed. You will have standard everyday power brakes no different than brakes built without the ABS system.

The ABS system will perform a self check once you exceed 5 MPH and the "ABS" and "brake" lamps should turn off. During this test, the controller runs the pump motor and briefly operates all of the valves. This ABS "self-test" is performed every time you start and drive.

EBCM is short for "Electronic Brake Control Module" It is the advanced computer than controls the electric motor pump and valves of your ABS system.  Burnout of the motor is very rare however. A MOSFET transistor in the EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module) has failed, can cause the pump not to perform.

Pump motors generally do not fail, but when they do, the culprit is usually worn-out brushes or corroded electrical connections. In a worst-case scenario, your motor is beyond repair. It is bolted directly to the hydraulic assembly- a cast aluminum brake fluid distribution hub with 5 or 6 brake lines branching off of it and wiring harness.

I hope this helps before you get your hands to dirty. In short check all the electrical connections first. Try running a hot wire to the pump motor first to see if it runs and if it does, then it's not the motor and could be a easier fix by changing the (EBCM).

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