Question about 1994 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Oh boy I just finished one in a 92 and let me tell ya its no fun at all. Typical bolt up pattern for the trans and torqe converter, but due to lack of space you will need to remove the entire exaust from the manifold, undo it from the catalytic converter, remove the converter, removing the front inner fernder wells makes this much easyier access. Now after the drive shafts and exaust and all the other fun stuff has been removed, you need to undo the frnt raiator support body mounts and all the body mounts but the back. using a good solid jack and a board wide enough to distribute the force, jack the body up away from the frame about 5 to 6 inches. The reason for all this si that the top 2 tranny mount bolts usualy will not back out of their holes without hitting the firewall as they unthread. Having the cab jacked up also makes it easier to undo the tranny lines and brackets that are hidden up under the body where they are hard to get to. Another biggie is to take the transfer case out first seperate from the trans because only the front crossmember holding the trans is easily removed. The rear one will hold the tail of the tranfercase and your trans will still be pressed against the engine if you dont do this making it impossible to lower the trans even with everything unbolted. Dont forget to undo the converter bolts,3 of them in these, and if you dont have electronic 4wheel, undo the transfer case linkage via the one large bolt with the grease fitting on the top of the trans. Make sure if you dont have push button 4 wheel that the new trans has the same boltholes for the linkage plate for the tranfercase shifter as ones that came with eletronic shift are essentialy the same, but dont have these bolt holes tapped in them. Once you get it all together, dont forget to reset your detent cable that runs to the throttle linkage or you will fry the new trans. Good luck, hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
On 95-97 and 1998, both the turn signal and hazard flashers are located behind the lower dashboard trim just to the left of the cigarette lighter. You can not get to it without taking apart the trim (stupid design). Or you have to drill a 2" diameter hole in the trim with a velcro cover so you would never have to do it again1999 and later it is under the glove compartment
to disassemble it without drilling
It's behind the panel to the left of the cigarrette lighter. You need a Torx 25 screwdriver and another screwdriver for those hex shaped screws, forgot the size. First unscrew the 2 Torx 25 screws beneath the steering wheel. Then unscrew the rest of those Hex screws on the bottom. The panels overlap, so be prepared for a lot of unscrewing. You do need to unscrew the middle black panel on the bottom, right beneath the cig lighter. It's held by two Hex shaped screws, one on each side and are hard to unscrew. Also you need to remove your spare change sliding tray to unscrew the last hex looking screw. Once you pop your panel off, the turn signal flasher is the right one. The Hazard flasher is the left one. You can find a replacement part at Autozone, and DON'T get the $184 Flasher switch, all you need is the signal flasher. It's shaped like a cylinder with TWO prongs on it.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
How is it running before it quits onyou. This could be the culprit of an egr valve. How many miles on thevehicle. The egr seems to die on a certain mileage pattern. Also youcould start by cleaning the egr valve before replacing it. This couldvery well help the situation, but this is just a guess. Hope thishelps!!
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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