Question about 1995 Jeep Cherokee
All that an not one RPM stated, making the meter useless.
numbers matter, tell them.
all that can be condensed to idle controls, dead hot.
you took it to a shop but was running great then.
so he guessed, and spent a fortune doing nothing.
why do that. ?
take it in broken, or have them drive it for a day to work.
find a real shop that can do that. and win.,
THE idle controls can fail many a way.
1: the control is bad. (ISC/IAC) they like to stick clean it.
2: vacuum leaks causing above.
3: gross engine misfiring (50 causes)
4: not scanning it. you didnt. so, work blind.
next time post actual RPM, when missing up.
and win, !!!!
the PCM not stuck in LIMP-in mode, will work big time hard
to prevent engines from stalling and to hold spec rpm
the ECU modulates the ISC to hold 700 rpm , HOT, in neutral or DRIVE, if you go P N, D and P, the rpm must hold at spec, 700
if not the ECU is not regulating RPM is it.
and not scanning it now, you may never lean why.
scan cars failing, not working right., and win.
lets say you said, just to show how important numbers are.
RPM is 400 or 500 engine shakes.
EGR stuck open( if it has one,)
or engine gross misfiring ever get a full tuneup this decade, even spark plugs. OMG no>?
injectors leaking or clogged
at the 10min no start.
does 5-10% throttle action (right foot) allow it to start now.
NO, try wide open throttle starts.
bingo, then its flooded
if it floods, post , why does my engine flood. and get other answers
like a tuneup.,
Posted on Mar 10, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure the ignition coil drive is in proper sync. The sync should be at or close to 0. Also try an engine decarb this works great on 4.0 engines. Also if the misfire is coming for #3 there is a bulliten on installing a heat sheild around the #3 injector because it takeing a lot of heat from the exhaust mainfold that sits right under it.
Posted on Oct 21, 2009
it looks like your engine is having an over rich fuel mixture maybe, thatswhy when you press the pedal to the floor it starts becouse you allow lots of air to help clean the mixture while cranking, also you should have black smoke in the tailpipe until it cleans up and runs fine, i think youre having a leak in one our more injectors you should check them first for proper seal under pressure these is done in an injector test machine, second it may be a defective map sensor these trucks some times have a bad map and dont give a MIL (malfunction indacator lamp) and last but more rare to be is a blocked fuel pressure regulator chek fuel pressure it should be between 38 and 45 psi and it shoul hold these pressure when you turn off the engine if pressure drops fast its injector seal problems or fuel pump check
Posted on Dec 10, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks for the help. ill be working on it tomorrow"
Your idle speed is controlled by the computer which reacts to signals from the engine sensors . You need to test the sensors with a digital multi-meter to determine which one is not giving proper readings.
both haynes and chilton manuals have good test procedures but I prefer chilton for better wiring diagrams.
Aside from sensors, I would clean the throttle body using carb cleaner inside, around the throttle plate to make sure it is sealing properly when closed. The device next to the tps should be your idle control solenoid. that too needs cleaning. If you remove it, don't turn the plunger on the end and do not loose the o ring. Good testing is necessary to determine what is wrong. get the manual and do it. No good shop could possibly tell you what's wrong without doing the exact same thing. If you have any stored fault codes, have any of the larger parts stores check them for you. Most do this free and it can be helpful to give you a starting point for tests.
Not necessary to rate this answer because aside from advice, I can't tell you exactly what is wrong.
Posted on May 13, 2010
i had that problem try changing the oxigen sensor the one at the muffler pipe.. the computer gave me error 55 .. if it does not show the check engine than check fuel filter or fuel pump pressure
Posted on Sep 06, 2010
Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board. Chrysler PCM p/n P56028412, s/n TEH106636023.
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head), and shes been running great ever since
Posted on Oct 07, 2010
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