My 1991 Audi 100 is a joy to drive... Unless it's warmed up and you want to go into reverse. We need to sell this car as my husband lost his job, but people are either scared away by the dreaded "transmission problem *gasp*" or they think they're going to get it for peanuts. Does anyone know what the problem is/might be?se when warm?
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Re: 1991 Audi 100 has trouble in reverse when warm?
You have a transmission fluid pump for the reverse gear and a 2nd one for all forward gears. Something is wrong with the pump. Your transmission problem could be the result of neglect if you haven't been flushing your fluid at least every 40,000 miles. Flushing the transmission now may fix the problem, it may make it worse, or it might not make any change at all. The first step is to find out that your transmission fluid level is correct by checking the dipstick with engine at operating temperature while idling in Park. DO NOT OVERFILL. NOTE: your fluid doesn't get thin when it gets old, it gets THICK and dark due to contamination. The darker it is, the longer it's been siting there.
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When you say wont accelerate does the RPM flares that would be the transmission slipping, or you step on the pedal all the way and the vehicle has lack of acceration you can hear a hissing noise that would be a plugged exhaust.Here the thing you related it to fuel has the problem on the ignition coil is a powerstage if this stage acts up it allows you to accelerate you just dont go anywhere it back fire through the intake that would be the power stage it located on the ignition coil
Not good! If your sure it not a hose leaking, you could buy some raidiator stop leak product at the auto parts store. The stop leak product will stop up your heater core so you won't have much heat in the winter, but it will probably stop your water pump leak if it's not a big one. I'd say replace the water pump and stay warm, unless you're not going to keep the vehicle much longer.
This is the warm air intake hose - it was probably a corrugated aluminium pipe about 2" in diameter. It's commonly called the stove pipe. Warm air from around the exhaust manifold is piped to the air filter case and used when the engine is cold to enable the fuel in the carby to atomise better. As the engine warms up, less of this pre-warmed air is needed and the valve in the air cleaner tube gradually closes off. Air then only comes from behind the headlight or the resonator box in the wheel arch. The loss of this hose won't affect warmed-up drivability at all (unless you are in a really cold climate), but performance/economy when cold or during warm-up maybe worse.
Not a solution but i am going through the exact same nightmare and same symptoms with my 1991 mazda b2200. I've apwnt over two grand to have my rebuilt TWICE and my alternator replaced and still does the same thing just starts only to die 2 seconds or so later unless i let it warm up to its max but will still die when taking turns and stopping at lights.
On the side of your transmission will be a switch with several wires
coming out of it. This is your reverse switch that turns on your
reverse lights and most likely needs to be replaced. The switch is just plug and play