Question about 1992 Toyota Corolla

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After replacig master cylinder, callipers, brake line and proportioning valve when rotors heat up both front wheels lock up from pressure from callipers

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  • Master
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Good Evening, it sure sounds like master cylinder however if you replaced lines have you replaced the rubber hose from the line to the caliper on each side. Those things with any amount of age can restrict flow after things warm up and then end up not letting your caliper bleed off. Hope this helps.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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The front drivers side break keeps locking. I have replaced the caliper and now when I pump it no fluid is coming out from the line.


Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.

Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.

A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.

I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.

.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.

That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.

I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.

You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.

Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.

As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.

The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.

Apr 18, 2016 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

1992 Taurus LX. I drive 1-2 miles and left front wheel gets extremely hot. I have replaced front calipers, discs, rotors, and front brake lines plus bled system repeatedly. Only things left are Master...


I would say neither. You need to raise that wheel and see if the caliper is retracting enough to let the wheel spin free. If it is locked up, I could be a collapsed brake hose on that wheel. The rubber hoses can do that.
Also check if it is a wheel bearing problem. Is the center of the wheel hot? A bad bearing can heat up.

Jan 21, 2014 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a problem with my brakes on my 2005 dodge ram 5.7L 1500. I have replaced all rotors, callipers, and pads and have bled them and only have brakes on the left side of my truck and even then they are...


I would have to see the truck in person, but there may be a couple of things going on.
Somewhere on the truck is a proportioning valve. The valve balances pressure to all 4 wheels with more to the front. That valve could be faulty. You could follow the lines coming out of the master cyl to see where they go.
The other thing is the ABS system. Its possible it has air in the lines. I think some of the regular hydraulic braking system is channeled thru the ABS.
You may have to get a shop manual that covers ABS to check it out.

Feb 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1990 Honda accord brake problems


Short of jacking up the wheel and putting a new car underneath, you've just about covered all the possibilities. But I wonder, perhaps in your attempts to solve this, if you have inadvertantly introduced another fault? As you know, the brake master cylinder on a disc braked vehicle has no static valve. If there were to be a static valve in the master cylinder, the brakes would lock on after a few pumps. But this would affect both front wheels. There could also be a collapsed section in one of the flexible hoses which would let fluid through for bleeding but not allow the fluid to return. this would hold the brake on too. When you had the cliper off, did the rotor trun freely?

Apr 18, 2010 | 1990 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I have re/re the rear brake cylinders,shoes,drums,front rotors,pads,and callipers on my 2000 gmc safari van.i have bled all the brakes. but the drivers front has no pressure or fluid.the other three brakes...


make sure you are bleeding them by doing them as an abs system,do the right rear then the left front,then the left rear then the right front,the opposite wheels are how the system brakes.

Jan 21, 2010 | 2000 GMC Safari

2 Answers

Rear brakes locking(until abs kicks in) with little front brake application and very light pedal pressure. also have really poor hard/emergency braking response, vehicle doesnt stop as aggresively as it...


It could be a proportioning valve, and there's also the chance that the portion of the master cylinder that operates the front brakes is going bad. Have you had a pressure check done on the front brake system? Also, some vehicles have a variable proportioning valve, so that when the vehicle is loaded, it allows more pressure to the rear brakes. These can sometimes stick in place, causing the fault that you describe. Hope this helps you out.

Dec 01, 2009 | 2002 Dodge Durango

3 Answers

Front passenger side brake problem


i would try the perportioning valve

Aug 15, 2009 | 1993 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

Chrysler pt cruser


That's a good question, but for some reason I have found through the 35 years I have been doing brakes that for some strange reason the front calipers tend to get the debris because everything is pushed forward when you release the brakes.

TEST: When you calipers lock up, here is what want you to do to check to see if it is the master cylinder. Release the pressure by loosing the fittings at the master cylinder, if you can then turn the front wheels by hand, then you know for sure that the restriction is in the master cylinder.

If you still can't move the wheels then the problem is either in the front hoses, the calipers or the proportioning valve which adjust the pressure from front to rear. Sence the vehicle is low mileage its hard to believe it would be the lines themselves.

Let me know what you find after releasing the master cylinder fittings.

Waiting for reply!

Jan 16, 2009 | 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

I have a Jeep Wrangler 1992. Replaced rear axle with a Ford 8.8 axel rear end and installed all new brake rotors, callipers, hoses, metal lines, forward brake discs, hoses. Have bled reapeatedly....pumping...


The proportioning valve most definately can be the problem. Did you change it or is it the original? (A disc/drum system uses a 70%front/30%rear braking ratio, whereas an all-disc system is alot more even). I would first bleed the master cylinder. Then I would 'gravity bleed' the rest of the system by opening the bleeders on all 4 wheels. Do not at any point let the m/cylinder go dry. Also, do not touch the brake pedal.
Continuously check all 4 bleeders, when clean brake fluid with no bubbles at all is running from a bleeder, close it. When all 4 wheels are done, recheck the fluid level and you should be OK.
Pump the pedal to 'self-adjust' the rear calipers, then re-check the fluid level.
Any problem after that means you either have a loose connection (it's possible for a tiny leak to let air in, but not let fluid leak), a leak, or you need a new (disc/disc type) proportioning valve. I would try Summit Racing myself. Good Luck!

Dec 26, 2008 | 1992 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Front wheels locking up


You say that you have changed the brakes, but did you change the calipers and rotors? I would also look at the wheel bearings to see what condition they are in. The other thing I would look at would be the proportioning valve and the master cylinder.

Oct 08, 2008 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

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