Hello,i have a 1989 spider and my driver side tie rod is bad the one that connects to the stirring coloumn i got the nut off but cannot get the tie rod out is piece machined in or is the metal just fused together.please help
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Re: tie rod replacement
It is a tapered fit. Sometimes it can be vibrated of with a light hammer.
Usually a tool called "a pickle fork" is used. Best is a tie rod end puller
(around $30). While you are at it, best to change the other side also. If you
use the puller, it actually pushes on the stud.
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Sounds like the tie rod is bad. Easyest way to tell is to jack up car on that side until tire is off the ground. tie rod end will pivot from side to side,this is normal but if it moves up and down this would indicate that it is bad. If it is please replace as soon as you can for this is very dangerous. If it would come apart you would lose control of car..Now replacing it is not that hard of a job. First remove pin that runs through bolt on bottom of tie rod. Then remove nut. Now the tie rod end has splines on it that holds it into place and just trying to pull it out doesnt work. Place something like large screwdriver or pry bar between tie rod end and where in goes into assemble. Now while prying down use a hammer and hit the side of assemble where tie rod bolt goes through. may have to hit it quite hard and remember keep prying down while you do this. It will simply pop up out of assembly. Please do not hit bottom of bolt to try to pop it out for this in alot of cases will smash end of bolt and cause it to flare out making it hard to pull out once loose. Now that it is out you will need to take it loose from the arm. Use a pair of vise grips of pipe wrench to hold arm and loosen set nut behind tie rod end and screw tie rod out. replace with new one ,tighten nut,put tie rod end into hole but on nut and tighten then be sure to put pin through bolt,may have to turn nut to line it pin up with hole. When pin is through bend it out around nut. The pin is what keeps the nut from coming loose...Hey your done...Anytime you replace a tie rod end you will need to have your car realined.......please rate this post and good luck and hope the info is helpful
under the front of your car the is a ball joint connected near your tire with a big nut on the shaft connected to that.... its the tie rod and tie rod end, you have to loosen the nut and turn the tie rod
Sounds like you need some front end parts. You can narrow down the parts you may need though. Get a jack and some jack stands and raise the front of your vehicle so the front wheels are off the ground. The first thing I would check is the tie rod ends as this would give you loose steering. Now that your wheels are off the ground, take both hands and grab each side of a front tire and wiggle it side to side. Keep your eye on the other front tire. If you can move the tire side to side at all, even a little bit, and the other tire does not move side to side with it, you have bad tie rods. Locate the point where the tie rod end connects to the steering knuckle at the wheel. The tie rod end will have a rubber boot with a bolt going through with a nut and probably a cotter pin holding the nut in. Now wiggle the tire again and keep your eye on this spot where the rubber boot meets the steering knuckle. If your knuckle moves (even a little) and the tie rod end does not, THAT tie rod end is bad. There are inner and outer tie rod ends. You want to check the pivot point (the place that the tie rod end is connected) on the inner and outer tie rod ends on both wheels. Again, you are looking for one side to move and the other to not move. Even if it only looks like a couple mm, it is bad. There should be NO movement whatsoever. Once you have identified all loose parts by moving the wheels side to side, we can now check ball joints and bearings. To do this is very similar to what we just did only this time we grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to move it back and forth. Pull the top of the tire towards you and push the bottom of the tire away from you then vise versa. There should be absolutely no wiggle. If you do get a little play here, locate your upper and lower ball joints. these too will have rubber boots on them and just like the tie rod ends, you are going to keep your eye on the point where the boot meets the A-arm. If you see any movement here, that ball joint is bad. Now, if your wheel wiggles back and forth but your ball joints are tight (zero movement) then you have issues with the wheel bearings. If you have to replace any tie rod ends you will have to have an alignment done because your toe will be off and you will wear out your tires. When replacing a tie rod end, prior to taking it off, count the number of threads that are visible. You want to leave that same number of threads visible when you install the new one. Keep in mind, this only gets the alignment close enough to get to the shop to have it aligned. Good Luck!!
Locate the tie rod end, and remove the nut that hold it in place.
Using a hammer and prybar, lodge the prybar under the tie rod end, and against something else, and pry up gently from underneath, while striking the area of the knuckle that it connects into with appropriate force. The tie rod end will dislodge. There is also a tool for this, if you'd rather use it. It looks like a tuning fork, and is called a "tie rod remover". Its use is self-explanatory. You can rent a kit to do this from AutoZone or Advance, the rental is about $50, IIRC, and you get your money back when you return the tool.
After having done that, loosen the locknut on the back of the tie rod, and count the number of threads that you have to turn the tie rod end to get it off from wherever it's installed. This is VERY important.
Once the old one is off, thread the new one on EXACTLY the same number of turns. This will ensure that your vehicle's alignment is about as close as you can get it without taking it to an alignment shop. Tighten the lock nut, reinstall the joint end into the hub, and torque the retainer nut. If there was a clevis or pin, reinstall it.
Depending on inside or outside tie-rod i'll go over both. Outside tie rod step: 1:Jack vehicle and remove tire 2:Loosen jam nut on tie rod, this is the nut directly behind the tie-rod. 3:remove cotter-pin on castle nut of tie-rod,remove nut. 4:turn the wheel completely to the extended side so that the tie rod is stretching out and you can get at it with a hammer. If doing driver-side turn wheel all the way to right. 5:Hit the nub that the tie rod is bolted to not the tie rod it will take some swinging. but you'll know when you have broken it free it will pop right out. 6:marking a spot on the shaft that the tie rod is on or leaving the existing jam nut as a marker to thread the new tie rod on. this can effect your alignment angle. 7:using a wrench or vise grip thread the tie rod off and the new one on. 8:Put new tie rod on and bolt down. 9:dont forget to install cotter pin good luck.
1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
2. Hold the tie rod end with vice grips or a pipe wrench and loosen the jamb nut (the nut at the inner end of the tie rod).
3. At the other end of the tie rod remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut.
4. The tie rod end will come out by turning counter clockwise. Before turning it grip the inner tie rod with pliers (the part on the other side of the jamb nut) so that it doesn't turn. Count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
5. Turn the new tie rod end in exactly the same number of turns that were required to remove the old one. Tighten the jamb nut up against the new part.
6. Re-install the castle nut and replace the cotter pin with a new one.
7. Re-install the wheel and lug nuts. Re-torqe them with the vehicle back on the ground.
8. It is a good idea to replace both tie rod ends at the same time and to get a front end alignment afterwards.
I hope this helps.
Yes degreaser will not hurt it. The outer tie rod is retained only by one nut that connects it to the inner tie rod.Once you have this loosen just turn the outer tie rod to the left to remove it from the inner tie rod.
#3 is the inner tie rod and it is simply screwed into each end of the steering rack. Raise and support the car remove the wheel and you should see where it is connected to the outer tie rod. There is a lock nut that you'll need to loosen slightly to get the tie rod off. You will need to get a wheel alignment once done but by slightly loosening the lock nut, you have a good reference of how it should be once done. Once loose, you should be able to turn the tie rod by using a wrench on the flattened area on the rod. Once disconnected from the outer tie rod end, you should be able to remove the dust boot covering the inner tie rod connection. Mine came right apart so hope you have no problems. After you have it out, here is where the loosened locknut comes into play. Put the new and old tie rod side by side, line up the ends that attach to the rack and pinion then mark the new rod so you know how far to put the lock nut on the new tie rod. Simply tightly screw the new one onto the rack and pinion put the boot back, screw on the lock nut to the mark then attach the tie rod to the outer tie rod end up to the lock nut then tighten the lock nut against the outer end. Get the tire back on, lower the car and Voila, done. Now go get an alignment.
hello dusto, no it should not be. the nut on the tie rod end which connects it to the steering knuckle / hub should come off counter clockwise. the nut which connects the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod should also be counter clockwise, remember though that from your view point it will look as though the nut will be turning right. hope i did'nt confuse, please let me know if i can be of any other help.