There is a leak in the metal brake line that runs along the driver's door and past the parking brake. I don't have the money to get it fixed somewhere. How can I splice it?

Only two are fuel lines, the main feed to the engine and the return line from the engine to the tank. One other gas tank line will be the EVAP line for sending gas tank fumes from the charcoal canister to the engine's intake manifold.
I think the other lines would be your brake lines to the rear wheels.

YouTube has many videos on repairing rusted fuel lines. Most people use the lines made of plastic in their repairs-takes special fittings though. These plastic lines have become very common now. In fact my '92 LeSabre has mostly plastic lines.

Have to fabricate new brake tubing & just replace the rusted
lines as you see them.

If you get under there & look, you will have your answer

A guess from my experience, would say you start at the proportioning valve & go past the door & leak, to the rear
somewhere at a junction block on the axle housing or to an
abs hcu unit, if one of them there along the way

Sometimes you need to make two lines with a union under the door,
as that is the longest run under a truck & to do one piece may not be
possible & get it in place, with all the bends & things you have to pass

On a 1996, I would suggest you bleed all four corners first
Then remove the master cylinder & clean out the moisture
Then replace All rubber flex hoses
Then replace the entire brake system lines
Once one rusts out, their all months apart & unsafe to use
piece mealing it one section at a time

Hi Chris, The brake system is basically very simple. If you have duel braking on your vehicle, the usual method is having two brakes operate on the front with for example the left rear and the other system will also operate two front and the right rear. This type of system will have two calipers on each of the front wheels. The tandem system works in a slightly different way, having the forward part of the cylinder pressurizing the rear brakes and the rear part of the cylinder pressurizing the front. I think under the circumstances you are describing, I would have a friend sit inside and pump the brakes repeatedly until the system becomes pressurized (maybe twenty thirty times of pumping the brake pedal) and then ask him or her to keep it pushed firmly down until you find out where its leaking. The amount of brake fluid you report having been sed would indecate a severe leakage. Check the lower parts of the rear wheels for signs of leaking wheel cylinders and then dito for the front wheels. Any signs of wetness at these areas and along the brake system (the plumbing or pipe work) will indicate where the leakage is. If you cannot identify a wheel which is leaking, carefully inspect around and blow the master cylinder and if this no sign go along the fluid lines, taking special note of where the damaged pipe was repaired. If there is a blockage in the line, air may be trapped at that point causing difficulty in pressurizing. Once the place of leakage has been identified it must be attended to before bleeding the system. When bleeding, begin with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder, and work your way back to the master cylinder one wheel at a time, until you reach the closest.Keep in mind that you may find it required to pump the pedal many many times before opening the bleed nipple.Regards John

remplace the lines napa or oraily they have those but you need someone to enstall thim

DON'T KNOW OF ANY PARTS IN THAT AREA THAT WOULD LEAK EXCEPT THE BREAK LINE ITSELF DO RUN ALONG THE FRAME RAIL CHECK FOR RUSTY AND OIL SOAKED LINES IN THIS AREA. PENDING ON THE EXTENT OF DAMAGE THEY MAY HAVE TO BE REPLACED

your fuel filter will be in line between the gas tank and the engine. It is usually under the drivers side door. Follow the fuel line from the gas tank to the engine and somewhere along the way you will see a barrel shaped metal object that is about as big around as a golf ball. That is your fuel filter. Be sure to pinch off your lines so you dont leak gas everywhere.

Park up a hill if you can, that usually helps to minimize fuel loss.

punch in on your computer 1996 chevy blazer specs. u will get or go to autozone.com.

We had same--water on driver side rear floor (soaked!). Driver side front floor seemed dry until feeling UNDER rug, was slightly damp. We found the location of TWO leaks causing this.

Leak #1 was through the parking brake line/cable seal; Recaulked with silicone. Removed plastic trim on floor between floor and door to reveal metal channel filled with water.

Leak #2 was where the door meets the car, near the hinge. It was the accordian-looking tube housing the wiring for the door. The big, rubber, circular plug connecting it to the main part of the car had come loose and water ran down through that, into the SAME metal channel filled with water from leak #1; will seal with silicone.

Note: We found that the channel filled extensively near the front door, BUT the carpet edge from the floor near the rear seat was dipping into it, wicking it up to the rear floor. Also, upon acceleration, the water in the channel gushed toward the back, thus soaking the rear carpet.

These leaks were found by removing all plastic trim (covering edges of carpet by doors), then one of us pouring water into specific areas of the exterior of the vehicle, and the other one watching closely with a flashlight for any signs of dripping.

metal

u can use metal pipe sections but not recommended may b cheaper to replace whole pipe certainly a lot easier t fit