Re: 1963 CHEVY SS w/396/360HP. Wan't start after getting...
Is it carborated or fuel injected, most fuel injection systems have a automatic shut off if the engine is too hot, make sure the engine is not over heating or possibly the fuel injection sensor could be faulty
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I don't know what testing you have done, as far as wiring circuits? You can see the starter fuse in the diagram, not only check the fuse, check for voltage on the fuse circuit, use a test lite to check for voltage. At the starter motor itself, two voltage circuits, one hot all the time, the other goes hot when starter relay is energized. Check those voltage circuits. The starter motor grounds through engine block.
You can unplug starter relay, use proper jumper wire, between terminals 30 and 87, the starter motor should crank the engine. If you try that, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set.
Were you having this problem before you installed the battery?
Passlock security usually only disables the fuel injectors. If the starter motor won't crank the engine, then check voltage circuits and ground at the starter motor. Two voltage circuits at starter motor, one comes from the battery, hot all the time, the other circuit goes hot when the relay is energized. The starter motor grounds through the engine block. Use a test light for testing. Any testing at the starter make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set.
I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
(1)Remove the air cleaner, looking down the primary throttle bore (front) move the throttle at the carburetor. Did you see fuel spray? if so its not a fuel related issue.
(2)Next, check your battery cables. High resistance in a cable (corrosion) will get worse with heat. Heat increases resistance. You may want to replace them depending how old they are. You need to check for condition and security of how they are connected ( good tight, clean connections). Sometimes its difficult to spot corrosion with the plastic insulation on top of the cable. Corrosion is usually at the ends where the bare wire is exposed.
(3) May have a bad starter. My old Ford would crank slow when hot. Found bad cables, but eventually had to replace starter too. Works great now.
Hi there:It sure sounds like a dead or weak battery or problem with connections at battery or starter contacts. Check all connections and make sure there is no corrosion built up at battery terminals. Charge battery or try jumping. If even dont work, check starter, starter solenoid or ignition switch. Hope this helps.
The starter relay gets energized first by the ignition switch. Then the heavier contacts of the relay connects the starter directly to the battery for the high current required.Check for 12v at the relay. If none, suspect your ignition switch. Don't forget the fuse.
Sounds like the bendix is stuck in the starter. When this happens, the starter energizes and turns, but the gear does not kick out to make contact with the flywheel. Have someone tap on the starter while cranking the engine.