Reliant '86 car probl

It can't be old junk with that kind of performance...in any case, did
you try spraying the wires (not just the ignition wires, but also the
elecftrical wires leading to/from the ignition module and computer) with
WD-40? Or putting window foam above the computer and any other parts
mounted on the firewall to prevent water from getting to them?

< snip snip snip
I'm guessing that your 1983 is similar to my 1984 with a 2.2 and a
Holley carb. I had trouble with the engine stalling or hesitating
after it warmed up. Some spray choke cleaner fixed the problem.
Also, the choke on these Holleys has an electric heater which helps
the choke open sooner. You should check that the wire connected to
the heater is getting 12 volts when the engine is running. Check this
wire for weak spots, worn insulation, etc.

I wouldn't put WD-40 on electrical wires... I'd prefer using a silicone
spray which is meant for that purpose.

By the way, I'm down to two Reliants. The 1984 was going to need a
new radiator by summer, and the clutch was starting to give off the
tell-tale burning aroma which would translate into a $ 425.00 clutch
job (if done at a reputable shop). The body was still sound, but had
rusted through on one rocker panel and one corner of the roof, of all
places.
So, at 160,000+ miles I traded it
in when I bought my Diamante this past Wednesday. I saw it on the
dealer's lot the other last night. They are asking $ 895.00 for it :-)

Send me email if you still have problems. I kept the service manuals
for my '84 (since much of the information pertains to my other two
Reliants) so I can help you with the manual's trouble shooting procedure
if you'd like.

Oh yeah, one other thing. There is a flexible pipe which runs from the
bottom of the air cleaner (plastic box) to the "stove" which preheats
intake air by drawing it over the exhaust manifold. If this pipe has
fallen off or if the "stove" has rusted away, you might just want to close
the opening that this pipe attaches to. This preheat system only
comes into play around 15 degrees F and colder. While you are at it
you might as well clean any dirt and water out of the air cleaner box.
My stove rusted away this past fall... I just closed off the opening
mentioned above and the car was still running fine on the cold day when
I bid it farewell.

Good luck to you and your Reliant!
--
Tom Johnson, Gilberts, IL |"I know you smoke, I know you drink that brew, I
|just can't abide a sinner like you. God can't either
"Curb your dogma ... | that's why I know it to be true that Jesus loves me
free your thoughts." | but he can't stand you." Austin Lounge Lizards

If this is a throttle body injected or a carbureted engine, check the heated
air inlet for proper operation. The vacuum motor should open the inlet's door
to admit heated air (heated by the stove on the exhaust manifold) when the
engine's cold and gradually open the door to admit outside (cold) air.

I recently had the same problem in a 1986 Mustang; the problem was traced to
the $8.50 temperature sensor in the air cleaner.

Hope this helps,

Bohdan Bodnar