In article <53mor1$@news.pc.centuryinter.net says...
-- Has the ignition module been replaced? Replace it even if it's new (especially if it's an aftermarket module). Does this truck have a tachometer? If so does it act strangely when this happens? If that doesn't pan out recheck that fuel pressure. If you care to email me with a very good description of all known oddities I'll try to help more. example: popping where? exhaust? intake? what does it do if power braked? what does it do if just revved in neutral? By the way the harness between the ECM and module will almost always set a code for ESC and/or EST if it is even the slightest bit bad.
-   I have a 89 C2500 350 atm. Replaced dist., cap, rotor, wires, plugs, tps, map, egr valve, O2 sensor, timing chain, temp sensors. Current varies on black/tan wire. Sometimes works when setting timing, sometimes does not. Truck jumps timing while driving or on restart. Saw that wire should be disconnected prior to start up and after timing set (while running) then shut off and reconnect...is this right? -   mwaring1
Jun 02, 2008
-   i have a 1998 S-10 4.3 engine lost alot of power. it will start but when you give it gas it bogs down bad and dies. it will idle but it has a small diesel sound. -   lilme12
Best Solution
posted on May 14, 2008
Ranny - usenet poster
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thanks for the response, any answers are appreciated! bad news: both the pickup coil and magnet have been replaced with known good parts, same problem!!
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Solution #2
posted on May 14, 2008
Ranny - usenet poster
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I'm looking at a 1989 Chevrolet, 4wd, 5.7 and 5-speed. Here's the problem: Truck bogs down severely after about half throttle is applied. At full throttle truck struggles to reach 50mph. Sometimes accompanied by popping and backfiring. After disconnecting timing connector under the hood, truck runs much better, about normal. The only code it will set is when the connector is unplugged. To my knowledge, the following have been replaced: ECM, distributor, fuel pump, fuel filter, and most if not all sensors on the engine. I'm about to check the harness between the ECM and the timing connector. Does anyone know how to do this in a easy way? Any other ideas on what to check?
My Dads Truck did the same and spent a small fortune trying to get it fixed ... He never did get it fixed the engine blew. The funny thing is it wouldnt start bogging down or shimming or anything at times ....it was like something wasnt truely fastened..... Hopefully you can get it fixed and not end up like dads 2001 S-10 did last yr.
Catfish
From Missouri
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Solution #4
posted on May 14, 2008
Ranny - usenet poster
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This is your key right here. The pickup coil drives the EST circuit in the distributor (or at least part of it). Your problem should be either in the pickup coil, or the distributor shaft reluctor magnet. They can get old and crack. When you disconnect the tan/black wire for the EST, you reduce the current load on the pickup coil and that is why it runs better. It is then able to handle the current requirements of the ignition module to run at base timing.
^^^^^^^^^ Why would anyone replace an entire distributor unless the old one has totally grenaded??? 99% of the time, with this vehicle, the only bad part is the pickup coil. Some aftermarket rebuilts use the same old pickup coil and dist shaft. They just clean them up and stuff em back in...