Question about 2004 Land Rover Range Rover
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
good chance broken line going to that cylinder. it is still pushing air but just not making it all the way there look at the bleeder valve or the fill valve get spray bottle with soapy water spray suspension in the area of the valve look for bubbles.
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
To chompiras79 Just bought Brakes and Rotors from this company original parts For $ 501 shipping and handling not hard to put on if you have a little know how
Atlantic British Ltd. - Largest Independent Supplier of Parts & Accessories for Land Rovers
Posted on Jan 26, 2009
Blue smoke means it's burning oil, and white smoke means there's water in the exhaust.
Added together, you may have a blown head gasket. Although it's an expensive fault, leaving it in the hope of improvement (it will not fix itself and there is no quick fix alternative) will just add more cost to an expensive repair.
I sincerely hope that I'm wrong, but you need to get the vehicle to a garage that you trust asap and get them to do a quick cheap "sniff test" on the engine coolant. It's also possible that your engine's turbocharger has failed; this possibility is stronger if you've stretched the oil or filter changes, used incorrect oil or poor quality filters, or if you have turned the engine off immediately after a hard run (all turbocharged engines should be left to idle for around a minute before turning off after either a long high speed run, a steep hill under load or when towing a heavy trailer). A failed turbocharger is also expensive but there's less labour involved.
I hope that you have found my reply to be of use; please take a moment to rate my answer.
Posted on Mar 04, 2010
My sincere apologies for the delayed response.
I am personally going back to answer your unanswered questions.
I have only been a free contributor to this site for the past 4-months.
Not sure if this what you need for the "P38" but it is for the 1996 Range Rover.
I do not know if you still need this information, but I am going ahead and answering it anyway.
Click on the following Link. It has the several Serpentine Belt Diagrams, one of which matches your specific vehicle with your particular options (AC, Power Steering etc..).
Standard Rule to Removal the Serpentine Belt:
1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagrams on Link)
2. Rotate/Move the Tensioner away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move.
3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt:
a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on.
b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right.
c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley.
d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley.
e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them.
Let me know if this helped...
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
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