Question about 2007 Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab Laramie

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I have a 2007 Dodge Dually 3500. When I changed the pads on the front , my brakes no longer work. it is not the master cylder because it pushes the fluid. I am thinking the Power Booster. When breaks are pressed down, the pedale fails to come back up and if held, you can here a hissing sound.

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  • jbarmore8839 Sep 11, 2010

    I changed the pads on the front of my Dodge Dualyy 3500 and bleed the breaks upon completion. now my breaks do not work unless I drive backwards. When I push the breaks down the pedal goes all the to the floor w/a hissing sound. I know it is not the mastercylender because it pushes the fluid out the bleeder valves for both fron & rear. the pedal also does not return back to its original position meaning I have to pull it forward. I am thinking the Power Booster

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  • Master
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Hi,

The problem is not your brake booster it is the piston in the master cylinder itself, there is a valve inside which you have to force back open, this can only be done with a pneumatic brake bleeder which can force the fluid through the opposite way.

This is the only way you can fix this problem.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need more information.

Thanks

Jason

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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  • Dodge Master
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U need a new booster, the hissing noise is a leaking power brake booster. see instructions below, if u have 4 wheel ABS you will need a shop to bleed the brakes as it requires a special tool to hold open the hydraulic control valve for bleeding.


Instructions Things You'll Need:

  • Socket wrench with socket set Socket extender Open-ended wrench Pliers Bucket to catch brake fluid Masking tape Permanent marker
  1. 1 Open the hood and locate the brake booster. This is usually a round-shaped disc about 3 to 4 inches in thickness, but may be larger depending on your vehicle. It will be attached to the brake master cylinder on the firewall, usually on the driver's side.
  2. 2 Loosen and remove the tube nuts holding the brake line to the master cylinder with the open-ended wrench. There are four of these (four brake lines) that you will have to remove. Make sure you make note of where the lines are being disconnected from because they will have to be reconnected to the same area you removed them from. You may want to use masking tape and a permanent marker to mark the location of where the brake lines came from. You'll have to turn each tube nut counterclockwise to loosen and be especially careful that you do not damage the end of the nut while you are loosening it. These nuts, which damage easily, are a critical component that secures your brake line to the master cylinder.
  3. 3 Unbolt the two bolts holding the master cylinder to the brake booster and remove the master cylinder. Be sure to catch the brake fluid that drips and do not get any on your vehicle's paint.
  4. 4 Some brake boosters have bolts that you will be able to remove from the firewall. If your brake booster has these, unbolt them.
  5. 5 Unbolt the five or six--depending on your vehicle--nuts holding the brake booster in place under the dash behind your vehicle's brake pedal. Some of these may be difficult to reach, but you should be able to get them all with a regular socket wrench. You may have to use a socket extender to reach these nuts on some vehicles.
  6. 6 Pull the retaining clip or pin holding the brake booster to the brake pedal. To do this, pull the clip holding the pin in place using pliers. Then tap the pin out with the end of the pliers. The brake pedal should now be free of the brake booster.
  7. 7 Pull the brake booster out of the firewall and out of the engine bay.
  8. 8 Lower the new brake booster into the engine bay where the old brake booster used to be. Align the mounting bolts with the holes in the firewall and slide the new brake booster into place so that it sits tight against the firewall.
  9. 9 Align the mounting bracket on the back of the brake pedal with the bracket on the brake booster (inside the vehicle). Slide the retaining pin through both brackets, connecting them together. Replace the clip holding the retaining pin in place. There is a small hole in one end of the pin. Push the retaining clip into this hole.
  10. 10 Replace the bolts you removed from the back of the brake booster underneath the dash and behind the brake pedal, and re-tighten them (clockwise). You may need to use a socket extension to reach these bolts.
  11. 11 Replace the bolts on the firewall (if your vehicle had them), and re-tighten (clockwise).
  12. 12 Slide the back of the master cylinder (there is a hole in the back) over the end of the brake booster piston and slide the master cylinder back until it sits flush against the brake booster.
  13. 13 Replace the master cylinder mounting bolts and re-tighten them (clockwise).
  14. 14 Replace the tube nuts into the areas where you initially removed them and re-tighten. When tightening tube nuts, turn them counterclockwise until you feel resistance. Then give them an additional one-quarter turn.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

  • yadayada
    yadayada Sep 17, 2010

    did u read and follow my instructions?

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