Hydraulic clutch problem

. . . I
. . . .
Since you replaced both master and slave cylinders, it
sounds like you have a clutch that is not moving freely on
its shaft.

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"People should be held accountable for their actions." -GW Bush

keep pumping and bleeding.
I only did the master and it took two people a while to get it
bled. Don't know if a pressure bleeder would help or not.
Make sure you have the freeplay close when you're done.

try this, master cyl. about half full-open bleeder about a trun and blow into
top of master cyl. (wipe it off first) it should start dripping out the
bleeder. let it drip till no air bubbles are noticed, keeping the master full
of fluid. Worked for me. Only other thing could be is that the rod is to far
out of adjustment. It doesn't have to be to far out of adjustment for it
not to work, just a couple turns on the rod makes a big difference. good luck

Both of these components should be bench bled prior to installation to
help them get started.

At this point I'd disconnect the cluth master cylinder line and pour
brake fluid in the resevoir while having someone work the pedal.
("Honey is it feeling firm yet??")

I


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Did you fully bleed the air out?

My brother had a shop do his clutch, and they didn't bleed the stupid
thing right. Took us a couple days of checking the reserve and putting
more fluid in it, and checking every night to let the air out of the
slave.

Charles

I replaced the master on my '88 4Runner because it leaked back along the
rod to the pedal but afterwards was still losing fluid. Found a short
section of rubber line, which allows drive train flex, mounted on the
firewall to the right (passenger side) of the engine was leaking. Check
there if you can't develop pressure.

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