Question about 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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I need to remove alt where is belt tension bolt

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 22,246 Answers

Their isnt one ,one of the idlers is spring loaded and turning the nut in the middle releases the tension ,wide belt ,a V belt will have a tensioner somewhere

Posted on Sep 10, 2010


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: how to remove belt tensioner???

you need a long bar... the kind with a 3/8 inch socket head that goes into the opening in the tensioner and you move it that way to loosen it so you can get the belt off... then undo the three or so bolts holding the tensioner on... you will probably need a vise to hold it when you take the bolt off for the pulley. replace the pulley and bolt it back on...


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Posted on Feb 01, 2009

  • 1990 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 New Beetle Serpentine Belt Replacement

This should help. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: removing the belt tensioner

You need a very long extension, and a swivel with a long socket. You can get it from underneath that way.

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: 199 dodge caravan 3.3 tensioner

route the belt over the big pulley first as you route to the rest of the pulleys the last one should be to the tension pulley guide the belt half way on the tension pully pull the belt with your hand as if the belt is turning with engine. make sure belts in the groves of each pulley.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Can't get A/C belt around pulleys on my 01 Chevy Tracker 2.5 V6

Removal & Installation

1.6L Engine
A/C Compressor Belt

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen the A/C compressor mounting bolts.
  3. Pivot the A/C compressor towards the engine in order to relieve the tension on the belt.
  4. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt from the pulleys.

To install:
  1. Properly route and install the A/C compressor drive belt on the A/C compressor, the power steering (if equipped), and the crankshaft pulleys.
  2. Adjust the A/C compressor drive belt to obtain 6-9 mm (0.24-0.35 in) deflection.
  3. Tighten the A/C compressor mounting bolts to 13-20 f t. lbs. (18-28 Nm).
  4. Connect the negative battery cable.

Alternator Belt
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the power steering pump and the A/C compressor drive belt.
  3. Loosen the generator mounting bolts.
  4. Pivot the generator towards the engine and remove the accessory drive belt.

To install:
  1. Properly route and install the generator drive belt on the pulleys.
  2. Adjust the alternator drive belt to obtain 6-8 mm (0.24-0.32 in) deflection for a used belt or 5-6 mm (0.20-0.24 in) deflection for a new belt.
  3. Tighten the generator mounting bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
  4. Install the power steering and the A/C compressor drive belt.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Power Steering Pump Belt
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen the power steering pump mounting bolts.
  3. Pivot the power steering pump towards the engine in order to relieve the tension on the belt.
  4. Remove the power steering pump drive belt from the pulleys.

To install:
  1. Properly route and install the power steering pump drive belt on the power steering pump and the crankshaft pulleys.
  2. Adjust the power steering pump drive belt to obtain 6-9 mm (0.24-0.35 in) deflection.
  3. Tighten the power steering pump mounting bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  4. Connect the negative battery cable.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

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1 Answer

How to remove alternate from ford

The nut for the pulley on the belt tensioner comes in from the back you can't see from the front
But you don't need to remove the tensioner just the belt .Take a long stright head screw driver wegde it in a spot on the tensioner and push back against the spring towards the engine and the belt will fall off .Just remember the routeing take a picture first .
The ALT is a peice of cake a long pivot bolt with a nut on the back lud it before reinstalling it and a bolt that threads into the ALT it self that slides through a bracket mounted the the engine block that you should not have to remove .
Then its just the connections most will plug in you may have some small nuts that thread to the ALT depending .
Clean all connections and ckeck the tensioner its a ware part and its a lot cheaper then the belt it should move smoothly no hang ups

Apr 05, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Alternator change


Nov 18, 2013 | 1997 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

I need to replace the alternator belt on my 1992 mazda 929

Find The Alt. Loosen But Don't Remove All Nuts Bolts That Look Like They Might Be Holding It On.

Disconnect The Neg Battery Cable From The Battery First.

The Alt. Should Pivot Back And Forth / Up And Down. Look At It And Notice How It Travels In An Arc. This Is How You Establish The Correct Tension When You Tighten The Bolts With The New Belt Installed. Use A Long Screwdriver As A Lever To Get The Tension And Tighten The Bolts With The Other.

Pretty Simple.

I Think The Outside Belt Drives The Water Pump And Alternator And The Inside Belt Drive The Ac And Ps Pump. If Your Belt Is On The Inside You Need To Loosen The Ps Pump And Take That Belt Off First.

Dec 22, 2010 | 1992 Mazda 929

2 Answers

Im trying to remove my altenator on my 1996 Ford Explorer 4.0 liter motor, but I cant even get to the tensioner pulley. It seems impossible.

One may need to get a breaker bar or a pulley tensioner wrench set from your local auto parts store to easily reach the tensioner pulley. Sometimes at places like Autozone and Advance Auto Parts the tool set can be purchased and returned, essentially, borrowing the tool set from them.
What tool are you using to release the tension from the belt?
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the accessory drive belt. After disconnecting the battery and removing the drive belt, unplug the single wire connector . . . 89682p01.jpg
    . . . then the multi-wire connector from the back of the alternator - integral regulator units lack the single wire 89682p03.jpg
    If the push-on connectors are difficult to remove, use a small pick to disengage the connector latch 89682p02.jpg
    Unbolt the battery (B+) lead from the back of the alternator . . . 89682p04.jpg

  3. Label and disengage all of the wiring connectors from the alternator. To disconnect push-on type terminals, disengage the lock tab and pull straight off.
  4. Remove the alternator bolts, then remove the alternator from the engine . . . then remove the alternator mounting bolts 89682p05.jpg
    Remove the alternator from its mounting bracket 89682p06.jpg
    To install:
  5. Position the alternator on the engine.
  6. Install the alternator mounting bolts. On 3.8L and 5.0L engines, tighten the upper bolt to 16-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm) and the lower bolt to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm). On 4.6L engines, tighten both bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
  7. On 4.6L engines, install the alternator mounting bracket and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 71-106 inch lbs. (8-12 Nm).
  8. Install the accessory drive belt. Ensure that the drive belt is properly installed on the pulleys before starting the engine.
  9. Attach all engine wiring harness connectors to the alternator.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.

Oct 08, 2010 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you replace the alternator?

there are 2 locking bolts underneath and 2 bolts on the front belt adjuster bracket,undo the 2 bottom bolts and the bolt in the alt/bracket,loosen the block bolt/adjuster bracket,that will release the belt tension,then pull out of the engine bay,replacement is the 2 bottom bolts finger tight then the belt over the pulley then finger tight for the bracket,tension the belt be levering the alt away from the block and tighten up the alt/bracket first then the other 3.check belt tightness (1/2"movement/slack on longest run)then recheck all bolts will need to recode your radio after.and dont forget to note what wires came off what terminals.......draw a picture if needed...

Jun 24, 2010 | 2004 Volkswagen Jetta

2 Answers

How to change the alternator in a 1995 Grand am Thanks

First unhook battery. Then unplug connectors and wire. Loosen bolts to take tension off of belt. Remove belt remove bolts holding alt. Place new alt in spot remember wich holes go where so not upside down replace bolts dont tighten yet. Install belt on all pulleys tighten tensioner bolt on alt bracket to snug tension after proper tension is achieved tighten all bolts and nuts. replace all plugs and wires reconnect battery pay attention to pos and neg dont hook up battery backwards. Congrats your done.

May 03, 2010 | 1995 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

How do I replace Serpentine belt on 92 gmc Sanoma.

should just have to turn the tensioner and pull belt off alternator pulley, release tensioner ,remove belt. install new belt, apply tension to tensioner and put belt back on alt. pulley.will require 1/2 in ratchet or serp. belt tool.

May 18, 2009 | 1992 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

Releasing tension on belt to remove alternator. 95 chevy 1500

assuming it has a serpentine belt, you need to pry on the tension pulley to release the tension on the alt. A jack handle works good for this.....or a large screwdriver....

Feb 02, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

1993 saab 900 belt diagram

Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.

(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in Englishicon_cheesygrin.gif ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.

Dec 13, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

2 Answers

4.2L 2006 Trailblazer

you will have disconect the neg.-BAT TERMINAL then loosen alt. adjusting bolt,remove alt. belt( or remove serpentine belt if so exist) then remove the two existing bolt at the bottom of the alt.then remove altenator.ree-install in reverse direction.

Jul 19, 2008 | 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer

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