Question about Dodge Ram 250

4 Answers

While crusing, Both the AC blower and electric windows stopped operating. Fuses ok. Relay unkown(location). Battery terminals clean,bright and tight. Where are the relay's? most likely cause for malfunction?

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  • lltanner Sep 10, 2010

    Dear Sir,

    Found 8 relay's, each are Identified numerically, some numbers smudge/oblerated. None of the relay's are Identified as WINDOW or BLOWER relays. Please, Positively provide the precise location for above mentioned relays.

  • lltanner Sep 10, 2010

    Dodge Ram 250 Van, 1993, 2.9 liter V6

  • lltanner Sep 11, 2010

    Dear Sir,

    I ask MNfisherman if he could please tell me which specific Relay or Fuses and their precise location that control the operation of the electric windows and the AC fan blower motor. I purcashed my 1993 Dodge Ram 250 Van used and unfortunately it didnt come with a users manual so I could see the fuse box diagram. I would very much appreciate it if you could tell me which Relay or fuses control the operation of the AC fan blower and Electric window and How I can locate and identify them.

    Thank you,

    lltanner

  • lltanner Sep 12, 2010

    1993 Dode Ram 250 Van, 3.1 liter V6, I called AutoZone, they told me it could possibly be a refusable link or Relay/fuse Box under the hood, however I am a semi-novice and unable to locate either, I purchased my Van used and do not have a owner manual/diagram of where this items are located, any help would be very much appreciated

  • lltanner Sep 14, 2010

    Thank you

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4 Answers

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  • Master
  • 11,896 Answers

Most likely if the fuse is good, you probably have a bad relay. Either under the hood in the black box called a relay center. Or under the passenger side kick panel right side of glove box.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 10, 2010

    I will need year, make, model, and engine liter size to provide this info.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 13, 2010

    .
    The fusible link is a short length of special,
    Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine
    compartment wiring harness, and should not be confused with standard
    wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it
    protects. Under no circumstances should a fusible link replacement
    repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or
    from another wiring harness.

    When a fusible link blows it is very important to
    find out the cause. Do not just replace the link to correct the problem.
    The fusible links are placed in the system for protection against dead
    shorts to ground.

    In some instances the link may be blown and it will
    not show through the insulation. Check the entire length of the fusible
    wire when the link is suspected of failure.

    To repair any blown fusible link use the following procedure:



    1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of
      the open fusible link. If the damaged link is one of three fed by a
      common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected
      circuit.



    2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



    3. Cut the damaged fusible link from the wiring harness and discard
      it. If the link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut
      it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.



    4. Identify and procure the proper fusible link and **** connectors for attaching the link to the harness.


    Care must be taken when fitting the three fusible
    links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit
    for three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side
    cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and
    withstand a pull test.




    1. To repair any fusible link in a 3-link group with one feed:




      1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fusible links close to the feed wire weld.



      2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of
        insulation from the detached ends of the two good links. Then, insert
        two wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one
        stripped end of the replacement fusible link into the same end of the
        **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.



      3. After crimping the **** connector to the three fusible links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2
        in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into
        the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.



      4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fusible link, strip approximately 1/2
        in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which
        the blown link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or
        equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement
        link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.



      5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin
        and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs
        and insulate with electrical tape.




    2. To replace any fusible link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2
      in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the
      appropriate replacement link to the stripped wire ends with two proper
      size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then insulate
      with tape.



    3. To repair any fusible link which has an eyelet terminal on one
      end, such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fusible link behind
      the weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of
      insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet
      fusible link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size ****
      connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate
      with tape.



    4. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.


    Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fusible
    link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating,
    "Resistor: don't cut or splice.'' DO NOT replace blown fusible links
    with standard wire. Use only fusible type wire with hypalon insulation
    or damage to the electrical system could occur. Make sure the correct
    gauge of wiring is used.

    The
    fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature)
    insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and
    should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges
    smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances
    should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard
    wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.

    To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:



    1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of
      the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a
      common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected
      circuit.



    2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



    3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it.
      If the fuse link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire,
      cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.



    4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link with **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.


    Heat shrink tubing must be slipped over the wire before crimping and soldering the connection.



    1. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:




      1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.



      2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of
        insulation from the detached ends of the two good fuse links. Insert two
        wire ends into one end of a **** connector, then carefully push one
        stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the ****
        connector and crimp all three firmly together.



    Care must be taken when fitting the three fuse
    links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit for
    three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side
    cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and
    withstand a pull test.




    1. After crimping the **** connector to the three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2
      in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into
      the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.



    2. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1/2
      in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which
      the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or
      equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement
      link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.



    3. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and
      40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs then
      insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.



    4. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2
      in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the
      appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two
      proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then
      insulate.



    5. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end
      such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the
      weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of
      insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse
      link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector.
      Solder the connectors and wires at the repair, then insulate.



    6. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.


    Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link.
    The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating,
    "Resistor-don't cut or splice.''


    When attaching a single No. 16, 17, 18 or 20 gauge
    fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of
    the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the **** connector
    for positive wire retention.

    I will look for an owner's manual for you. You can test relays with an ohmmeter on the ohm setting to test if any are bad. Don't forget about the passengers side kick panel as well as under the hood for relays.


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  • Master
  • 10,865 Answers

Hello. The a/c relay is under the dash to the right of the steering column. That said, the fact that the electric windows also stopped functioning may indicate a more serious problem. I recommend taking the car to a local autoelectric repair shop. J.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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  • Master
  • 3,489 Answers

What year and model Dodge? I will see what I can find but I do need more info..

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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  • Dodge Master
  • 6,927 Answers

I would assume the ignition switch is the problem,or the body control module,but I would bet on the ignition switch being at fault.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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