Question about 1988 Ford Escort EXP

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How to replace an ignition rotor to a 1988 Ford Escort

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  • Ford Master
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Remove 2 screws holding distributor cap and remove distributor cap (do not remove wires from distributor--just flip it over), pull rotor straight off shaft. Replace new rotor on shaft. Rotor should go onto shaft in only one direction. Replace distributor car and tighten screws. Any other questions, please reply.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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Hi, yes they stick fast. if you rock it back and to the other way is to sprey penitating oil under it. try not to damage the drive. gerry

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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  • Master
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Are you talking about the distributor rotor? That you would just remove two bolts on distributor cap, pull the rotor straight up and off and put new one on in the same position, put cap back on in same position and you are good to go. Really easy.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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  • Ford Master
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Your vehicle may be equipped with either of the following ignition systems, depending on the year and engine combination:
* 1981-82 1.3L and 1.6L engines: Dura Spark II Ignition System
* 1982-85 1.6L Non-EFI and 1986 1.9L Non-EFI engines: Thick Film Ignition I (TFI-I) System
* 1983-90 1.6L EFI and 1.9L EFI engines: Thick Film Ignition IV (TFI-IV) System

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the distributor from the engine.
  3. Place the distributor assembly on a workbench.
  4. Remove the two TFI ignition module retaining screws.
  5. Pull the right side of the module down the distributor mounting flange and then back up to disengage the module terminals from the connector in the distributor base. The module may then be pulled toward the flange and away from the distributor.
Do not attempt to lift the module from the mounting surface, except as explained in Step 3, as the pins will break at the distributor module connector.


To install:
  1. Coat the baseplate of the TFI ignition module uniformly with a 1 / 32 in. (0.8mm) of silicone dielectric compound WA-10 or equivalent.
  2. Position the module on the distributor base mounting flange. Carefully position the module toward the distributor bowl and engage the three connector pins securely.
  3. Install the retaining screws. Tighten to 15-35 inch lbs. (1.7-4.0 Nm), starting with the upper right screw.
  4. Install the distributor into the engine. Install the cap and wires.
  5. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  6. Recheck the initial timing. Adjust the timing, if necessary.

Hope helps.

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

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IT IS MISSING iVE REPLACED THE PLUGS


Misfiring Escort...
THE Guide!
1- check HT leads, including the main lead from the coil. pull one off at a time and see if there is any difference in engine noise, if a lead makes no difference to the engine note when you pull it off it is broken and you need a new lead for that plug - best to replace a full set since the others will be on their way out too. try each plug and check the leads like this with the engine running, 2- clean/repace distributor cap and rotor arm if it is dirty or corroded, there are 2 Clips, one on either side of the distributor cap, pull em off, take the distributor cap off, look inside the cap, there are 4 pins, are they all corroded and covered in white stuff?, they should be shiny brass, clean them up with fine wet and dry sandpaper, make them flat and shiny again. also still on the distributor is the rotor arm, pull it off, it may need a bit of wiggling - clean this up the same with the wet and dry, get a very fine grade of wet and dry sandpaper since you want the metal to be as smooth as possible afterwards, once the cap and rotor both have shiny metal clean them with mild detergent, rinse and dry them fully, not only to clean them of dirt and grime but also the metal filings from the sanding are "bad" for the distributor.. once dried refit the rotor arm (it only goes on one way, do not force it) refit the distributor cap, make sure its the right way round (make a note of its position BEFORE you remove it) 3- check if air filter is blocked and replace it if it is very dirty - if you think it is blocked try running the engine without the filter and see if it runs better, you know for sure you have a bad filter if this is the case. 4- check fuel filter (especially on 1.0 and 1.3 engines) for blockage and fuel line for blockage (replacement costs £3.50-£5 or so)
apart from that its "experience required" jobs like setting the ignition timing - just get a normal tune up after you've checked out the leads and dizzy/rotor arm which is quite cheap on an escort, you only turn the dizzy and move 1 screw...
Just for reference in case i have misjudged you're ability and you want to try tune it yourself... 1989 MK4 Ford Escort ;-D you didn't give CC so you'll get all engine data for 1989! (petrol)
NOTE: the CVH engines have hydraulic tappets so no adjustment is possible and no data is given. ---------------------------------------------
Escort 1.3 "HCS" 1988-1990 1297cc Valve tappet clearances - Inlet --- 0.20mm - Exhaust 0.32mm Firing order 1-2-4-3 Idle speed - 700-800RPM -
750RPM is optimal idle but anything between 700-800RMP is acceptable.
Ignition Timing- 15 Degrees before top dead center at idle RPM
Spark Plugs : Motorcraft - AGRF22 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap - 1.00mm (check it is right or it will misfire...)
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4 (1392cc) "CVH" - 1986-1990
Firing Order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed 750-850RPM, 800 being optimum _____ NOTE: This engine requires premium fuel (97 Ron) or it will run poorly - damage may result from using low grade fuel. ----------------------------
Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at idle RPM. Spark plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark plug gap 0.75mm (check this)

----------------------------------------------------------
Escort 1.4i Catalyst - 1.4 "CVH" 1392cc 1989-1990
Idle RPM 850-950RPM 900RPM Being optimum :This engine needs only regular unledad 95RON
Ignition timing - 8 to 12 degrees BTDC 10 degrees being optimum Spark PLugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C1 Champion - RC7YC
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ford Escort 1.6 "CVH" 1596CC
Firing order 1-3-4-2 Idle speed - 750-850RPM - 800 being optimal Ignition Timing - 12 degrees BTDC at 800 RPM Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGPR22C Champion - RC7YC Spark Plug Gap - 0.75mm (check it!)
NOTE :This engine will run on regular fuel (95 RON) but the timing should be set to 8 Degrees BTDC at idle RPM for this fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------
FORD ESCORT 1.1 - 1989-1990 - 1118cc "HCS"
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Idle speed - 700-800RPM 750 Being optimal
This engine runs on regular or premium fuel without adjustment
Ignition Timing - 10 degrees BTDC
Spark Plugs - Motorcraft - AGRF22C1 Champion - RS9YC Spark Plug Gap 1.00mm (check this!)
-------------------------------------
So check your spark plug gaps with feeler guages if you don't have a feeler guage they're less than a fiver at a cheap motor shop - even pound shop and market stalls sometimes have them.
Apart from that lot - these cars can run bad if the battery is weak, they chug like hell on a half charged or failing battery, so make sure the battery is strong too...
The carburettor jets could be clogged or worn... Inlet manifold could be leaking?
Check the low tension wiring (the wiring on the ignition coil, the two round plugs that puch onto the coil) one red and one green/black/stripey/somethin - trace these two wires around the engine bay and check them for damage and loose connections.
Thats all I can think of right now tell me how you get on, I KNOW these cars... I'll go step by step if you need help checking everything/replacing whats wrong,
------------------------------
Good luck.

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1 Answer

Ford 1988 escort GL-Front wheel constant scrape-scrape,vibration


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ps please rate me

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