2006 Silverado radio died

This is completely ridiculous. Ive been on the net since 1988 when bbs was just starting to go out of style. you could literally find anything and i do mean anything you typed in the search box on webcrawler this was years before google was even thought of.

Are they telling me that today not even one mind can produce a document with a pinout on how to rip out a theftlock and replace it with a good old aftermarket stereo? i dont believe it for a second.

the guys who know are just simply keeping it to themselves because everything today is so commercial and chevrolet watches whatever you post here.

Simply said, the net sucks today.

Its also just like i dont believe for a second that nobody has hacked obd2. but they keep it to themselves out of fear that the solution will be (corrected).





are you telling me theres not one person out there today

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Did you need to remove the radio in order to conduct your electrical tests
and if so, were you able to put the radio back without doing any noticeable
damage to the dashboard or the radio?

Did you do any damage to the wiring harness?

If your unfortunate experiment created no visible damage, take the truck
back to the dealer and demonstrate your problems with the radio. Don't say
anything about your attempt to hook up a CB. Hopefully, your bumper to
bumper warranty will cover the problem.

The electrical components in late model Chevrolet/GMC trucks, are extremely
sensitive to voltage fluctuations and the connectors are made of very cheap
and flimsy materials. Dealerships are unwilling to modify a vehicle because
doing so might cause problems, such as the ones that you are experiencing.

I have a 2004 Silverado work truck which comes from the factory without a
cruise control. The only difference between my truck and one with a cruise
control is that the vehicle with the cruise control has a different turn
signal stalk and its computer is set with the cruise control mode turned on.
My dealer refuses to do a cruise control upgrade to my truck because there
would be no warranty on the cruise control and its installation might cause
other problems. Fortunately, after driving my truck for two years, there
have been very few times when I actually could have benefited from having a
cruise control.

In view of the problem that you have already had, you will probably be
better off if you connect your CB directly to the battery.

There is slight damage to the constant power line, since I knew it was
a constant 12 volt, I went ahead and tapped a power line for the CB to
it. I'm trying to figure out a way to "repair" the insulation on the
wire, so it would hopefully not be noticed. I wonder if I could find
some of that rubber coating in a close match to the color of the wire
insulation? It wouldn't take much to hide it easily.

There are several places in the box under the dash that you can get power
from which are on their own fuse so you don't have to mess with tapping any
other wires.
The best way to repair would be to pull the pin out of the radio plug and
slide on some heat shrink tubing but it wouldn't hide anything as the
repair would be noticeable, but if you do fix it then no one will ever know
anyway.

Didn't that wire Become CHAFFED at the fACTORY during assembly ? ( it
was that way when u bought the truck )

--
It Doesnot Take Brains To
Get A High Paying Job!
All You Need Is A College Degree

Thats quite possible. My 04 would blow the SIR fuse and the display on the
mirror would go out. I would replace the fuse and a few days later it
would blow again. I found that the wire going up to the mirror was being
rubbed by the parking brake. unplugged it and stuck my hand way up in the
dash and rerouted it through the dash instead of around the bottom by the
parking brake, after fixing it of course.

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I just re-read your original post and noticed the part about the cigarette
lighter not working in addition to the radio. The lighter may have blown a
fuse. If I remember correctly, a cigarette lighter creates a short across
the heating element between the positive and negative poles and a
thermostat-spring pushes the lighter out when the element gets hot. (I
experienced this effect the hard way after carrying a 9-volt battery in my
pocket. A coin crossed the two poles and got hotter and hotter until it
burned my leg.) Anyway, it could be that the cigarette lighter circuit got
zapped when you tapped into the constant 12 volt line.

I'm guessing that there was enough of a surge in the electrical system to
cause damage to some part of the radio circuit. Which leads me back to your
statement: "After checking the lines with my multi-meter, the radio now only
works intermittently." I'm not sure what method you used to check the lines.
Did you need to puncture the insulation of a wiring harness in order to
insert the multi-meter probes? If this was the case, it could be that two or
more wires were exposed enough to touch each other.

The fact that your radio still works -- although intermittently -- indicates
that there is some problem with its power supply, either with the radio
itself, or the circuitry supplying power to the radio. I don't know if the
radio uses one of the many Delphi relay cubes found in the under-hood
electrical circuit box. If it does use a relay, this relay may have been
damaged by an electrical surge.

The Delco radio/CD player in my 2004 Silverado is mated to the truck through
some sort of internal scan that the computer performs. According to the
dealer, if my radio is stolen, it will not work in another vehicle without
being re-programming by a dealer. Maybe your radio has lost its
factory-supplied code and needs to be re-programmed.

You asked for ideas, so I am just putting out a few ideas in the hope that
somebody will be able to put the puzzle together.

I had a chance to look at it some more last night.

The lighter fuse was blown, so that fixed the lighter.

As far as the radio, it seems that one of the pins in the harness is
loose. As I pull the radio out of the dash, it will come on, when I
push it back in, it will go off. I played around with the harness a bit
last night, and was able to get it to stay on when I put it back in.
That worked until I hit a bump this morning, which must have jolted the
pin loose again, and turned the radio back off.

I think I'll take it in to the dealer tomorrow, and see what they do
with it.

Thanks for every one's help.

Does your radio say "RDS" on it? The new chevy's incorporate some of the
data systems into the radio. You may have tapped into the power of one of
the control modules snd fried it through that.

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There is points on the fuse block for acc's like cb's and other radios, ie
scanners, and hams, thats where I always go for power when needed, and some
of the points are switched with the ignition switch. check the vehicles
owners handbook for the fuse block diagram, hope this helps

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