Question about 1997 Toyota 4Runner
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1997 toyota 4-runner, My battery
A development on my problem (battery and other lights turning on, making me think my alternator was out, and radio cutting out). My engine temp skyrocketed one day. I checked and my radiator was quite low, and now after ensuring the radiator was full and the engine running at normal temperature, all the warning lights and alternator misbehavior stopped. I'm not sure the relationship except that it worked.. so far. (filling the radiator fully, that is).
Posted on Oct 04, 2008
Diagram is unnecessry.
Pull both front wheels
Work one at a time leaving the other for reference
Find the retention spring ... its a paperclip thickness wire spring... dislodge center retention loop and undo from both ends which engage brake pad retention rods.
Pull the rods out
Pull the old pads out... laying everything on the ground
Use scrap wooden wedges to pry between the rotor and the caliper ...inside and out until the calipers are fully withdrawn. Use the new pads to measure if they are far enough back.
Note... the brake fluid will have dropped in the master cylinder over many months of wear... do not fill it. When the calipers are pushed back they will fill the reservoir again... one wheel at a time.
Be sure to identify the correct pad based on what you took out and what is on the other side (if you screwed up the layout)
Make sure to take the old antisqueek backing plate from the old pad and place it on the new pad. They don't use lubricant on these anymore.
Replace the pads... the retention rods... then the retention spring
Do the other side
Then progressively step on the brake peddle until full tension is felt
Check the master cylinder reservoir... probably needs no additional fluid.
New pads will register in existing ridges in each disc in no time at all.
You should check the discs to see if they need to be replaced during this operation...using some calipers
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
There is a heater core bypass pipe that runs from the block (under the manifold) to the bacl of theengine where you will see a flat rectangular "sheet metal" thing with a pipe coming out of it. The a rubber hose connects. You need to pull the top air plenums and intake to get to it. The p[ipe flange bolts to the block with silicone rtv as a sealant.
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
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