Question about 1999 Honda Civic
A dead battery is a sign that the alternator is going. It's a tricky job to do, but can be done in your garage or driveway.
Posted on May 02, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you are absolutely sure that the all the abs sensors are good. Then the only other factors are the abs unit itself and the abs computer. Please have the system checked with a a scanner to make sure. Remember the only way to an ABS light will reset is by driving the vehicle and if every component of the system is fine the light will go out. Because your light is on there is a problem in the system and your abs is not functioning when the light is ON .Good Luck
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
The cylinder is not getting fuel, spark or compression. You have already checked for spark on that cable and it appears to be good. Pull the spark plug and see if it is damaged. You can also switch spark plug and cable to another cylinder and see if the miss travels with the plug and or cable. If so, you'll know its the spark plug/cable that is bad.
You can check for fuel by listening to the fuel injector to see if it clicks. Use an automotive stethoscope or a long screwdriver--put the metal end of the screwdriver on the injector and the other end against your ear and listen to the injector while the engine is cranking or running. You should hear it click for each time it pulses fuel.
If both fuel and spark are good, then you are probably missing compression in that cylinder. You (or a mechanic) will need to pull all the spark plugs and do a engine compression test with a compression test/gage set. Lots of things can lead to poor or zero compression including: broken piston rings, burned/stuck/broken valves, cracked cylinder head or engine block, cracked pistons,etc.
Because one cylinder is "dead", the engine has to work extra hard to start and run against a cylinder that is dragging it down. If you find low/no compression in that cylinder, you will probably have to remove the cylinder head to correct it. A big expensive job. It may be cost effective to replace the whole engine with a rebuilt one.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
SOURCE: wont start
Sound like a bad main relay, If the distributor is good as you said then the main relay is at fault. This relay control the injector pulse. To check to make sure that the injectors aren't working by using a can of intake cleaner, spay intake cleaner into throttle body and try to start vehicle it should start temporarily and cut back off when cleaner burns out. This relay is located under the dash just below steering column. It looks like a brownish box and has a plug connected to it and it bolted up under there.,http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelaylocation/7-main_relay_closeup.jpg Good luck nd thanks for using FIX YA
Posted on May 15, 2009
Check your batt & cables & numerous ground connections. Clean and tighten all- even if they look OK put a wrench to them and give a twist to tighten them.
You have 2 fuse panels- one under the dash and the other over the passenger side firewall. I would start by removing each fuse one at a time, inspecting each fuse visually and with a continuity (ohms) tester. Then take a pink pearl eraser and clean the wafer tips of each fuse before replacing them to the same place you removed the fuse. If you find a burnt fuse replace it WITH THE EXACT SAME AMP RATED FUSE (making a note of the circuit it is for)- likewise if any fuse fails the continuity test.
If you have good grounds and clean connections to the positive (don't forget to check the alternator plugs) and all your fuses are clean and in good working order then the next thing to check for are the relays and the ignition switch
Don't just start taking the steering column apart to get to the switch, however, because you will have to disengage the airbag deployment circuit before fooling around in there. Your Haynes or Honda shop manual should walk you through that.
In addition there are relays that click in the firewall fuseblock under the hood. Check your manuals for procedure to test these as they relate to ignition and or starting circuits and may be your trouble.
If you hear clicks at the relay when turning the ignition on- without starting- then these are probably OK and so is your ignition switch- at least for the ignition only setting.
Another problem I've had with my old Civic is that the interlocks get a little squirrely from time to time. Make sure you have your foot on the brake, your trans in park or neutral, etc. If you have an auto transmission there is a slot to release the shift lever- stick your key in it and run the shifter through all the gears a couple times. Sometimes I have to yank the steering wheel back and forth hard to get the ignition switch to fully engage or to even turn. This is what I do when I get nothing and hear no initial clicks or when my key won't turn. Every once in a while it just plays dead, but unjamming the interlock devices always brings it back for me. I have over 120k miles, but this has happened every once in a blue moon since it was new.
Good Luck, let me know how it goes. If this fixes ya then please rate this solution. If not, then post an update of your results and findings and we'll get deeper into it.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
It sounds like your relay could be bad. When your relay contacts become worn your volt meter will show 12v coming out of the relay until you put a load on the circuit, then the power goes away. You have to get to the wire going to your blower either from the back of the relay or by sticking a straight pin through the hot wire. Clip your + lead to the pin and the - to a ground. Turn blower switch on. With the blower unplugged you will show 12v but when you plug in the blower the power will disappear. If this is the case your relay is bad.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
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