Question about 1994 Nissan Pathfinder

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1994 nissan pathfinder brake light and battery light come on when idle and when driving non freeway speed

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Well I had the same problem and my battery went dead a couple days later. At the auto parts store, the guy hooked up a voltmeter and "tested" my alternator. Said I'm only getting 11.5 to 12 volts with engine running therefore alternator is bad. I bought a new one appx. $150 plus $63 core deposit. Went home changed it out, car started but brake and battery lights still on. Took old alternator back to Checker (now O'Riley) and had them bench test which it passed. They wouldn't take back the new one because it was already installed. Was going crazy trying to find the problem. Check all the wiring using Ohms, cleaned up all the grounds, even bought a new bulb check relay because it's on the same circuit. Well nothing worked. The next day decided to check wiring again because can't be anything else. I found a bulge underneath a bunch of black tape in an area over by where the battery sits. Decided to unravel it and low and behold the wire inside had completely corroded in half. I couldn't believe my eyes. I'm guessing the previous owner somehow got a nick in the wire and just taped it up. Well water got in over the two years I've driven it and lately it's been raining a lot and high humidity and it finally went. Moral of the story, check and double check the wiring. This was the white wire from the alternator back to the battery and it was double wrapped in tape and tubing. Aloha

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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How to do the drive cycle of a 1996 Nissan pathfinder


How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  • If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

May 26, 2016 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to do the drive cycle on a 1996 nissan pathfinder


How to Perform a Basic Drive Cycle


Step One: How to Prepare Your Vehicle

  • Have the fuel tank between 30 and 70 percent full. Some systems, especially the EVAP system, need to have a specific level of fuel in order for the tests to be trusted. If the fuel tank is near empty or completely full, many of the basic tests will not run at all.
  • The vehicle must also have a good alternator and a strong battery. If you have to occasionally jump-start your vehicle, all of the memory from the powertrain control module (PCM) is erased, which includes the data that accurately tracks the results from various stages of the Drive Cycle. Also, if the battery is weak or undercharged, some of the most important tests will never run.
  • The vehicle must sit overnight, or for at least eight hours, in an environment that is less than 90° F. The engine temperature needs to match the air temperature in order to establish an accurate baseline for the testing. If the outside temperature is over 90° F, the fuel is too volatile and the EVAP system won't even try to run its tests, though some of the other emissions systems may run their tests.
  • The keys must be out of the ignition and all of the doors must be closed while the vehicle sits over night because many of the onboard computers "boot up" when the keys are in the ignition. Also, many of the onboard computers still run until all of the doors are closed after the vehicle is shut off and the keys are removed.
Step Two: The Cold Start
  • Start the vehicle and let it idle for two to three minutes in Park or Neutral. While it is idling, turn on the head lights, heater/defroster, and rear defroster for a three to five minute warm-up phase. Let the idle speed settle down to near the normal speed.
  • Next, put the vehicle in gear and drive through city streets at about 25 mph. Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times before slowing down to stop. Don't roll through the stop; be sure the car is really stopped, just like you learned in driving school. Accelerate from each stop in a normal fashion-not overly conservative, but not like you are competing in a drag race either.
Step Three: A Short Freeway Trip
  • After the vehicle has been cold started and driven for a few miles on city streets, the next step is to take it on a short freeway trip.
  • Enter the freeway on-ramp and allow enough room with respect to other vehicles so that you can do a 1/2 to 3/4 throttle acceleration up to freeway speed.
  • When you have accelerated up to around 60 mph and have safely merged into the flow of traffic, stay in the slow lane and maintain a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for a minimum of five miles. Please use the cruise control to help you maintain speed.
  • Find a nice, long off ramp to exit from the freeway. As you exit, take your foot off of the accelerator and let the vehicle coast down until it stops under its own power as you complete your exit from the freeway. Do not use the foot brake and do not shift gears until the very end of this "coast down" phase.
Step Four: More City Driving
  • After you have completed the freeway trip, drive through the city streets for a repeat of the second part of Step Two.
  • Go up to about 35 to 40 mph a few times and then maintain a city speed of 25 mph before slowing down to stop. Again, don't roll through the stop and make sure to accelerate normally.
  • Pull in to a parking place and let the engine idle for one to two minutes and then shut it off.
Step Five: Wave your Readiness Monitors Checked and Verified
  • Drive your vehicle to your regular shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, present codes, and pending codes. They should do this as a courtesy and for free.
  • If all of your monitors are "ready" and there are no present or pending codes, then your vehicle has been properly repaired and is ready for an emissions inspection and for normal driving.
  • If your monitors are not ready, please click here for more information.

May 26, 2016 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

MY NISSAN PATHFINDER LE MODEL 1999 WILL STALL WHILE DRIVING


STOPPED UP FUEL FILTER OR WEAK FUEL PUMP.FUEL CONTAMINATED WITH WATER.LOW IDLE FAULTY IDLE SPEED CONTROL HAVE VECHICLE SCAN TO CHECK FOR CODES.

Nov 01, 2010 | 1999 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

1999 nissan pathfinder jerks and stall when slowing down or at red light


YOU might find its due to the Auto Matic gear box as when you slow down at the lights or brake hard to stop the auto box should brake free at about 600rpm as to allow the car to stop but the engine to keep idling,but the drive bands in the gearbox and the pump which operate them are not braking free so its like, in a Manual g/box driving and stopping but leaving the clutch pedal and not pushing it in so the car stalls,
SO you may find that the next time you are driving it and come to the lights just try putting it in NEUTRAL gear before you stop and try, if it ok then get the g/box serviced . RON

Nov 18, 2009 | 1999 Nissan Pathfinder

2 Answers

Nissan Pathfinder (1994) keeps stalling.


try cleaning the throttle plates that can cause this

Aug 18, 2009 | 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

94 Nissan Pathfinder's brake lights stuck on, even when ignition is off. How do I fix?


look at the top of the brake pedal arm for a contact switch and try disconnecting or adjusting it. chances are the switch is bad.

Jun 25, 2009 | 1994 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

Brake lights on pathfinder won't turn off


Why dont you try just changing the bulbs on the brake lights

Jun 20, 2009 | 1994 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

2003 Nissan Pathfinder Bat, AT Oil Temp, Brake Lights All Lit


GET YOUR BATTERY LOAD TESTED ALONG WITH YOUR ALTERNATOR TESTED FOR OHMS VALUES AT THE REGULATOR. ALSO MEASURE THE VOLTAGE WITH ALL LIGHTS, AC, RADIO ON. SHOULD BE THE SAME AS BATTERY OUTPUT.

Jun 16, 2009 | 2002 Nissan Pathfinder

1 Answer

92 Nissan Pathfinder brake lights stuck on


Change the brake light switch on the brake pedal arm. Go down to the parts store and ask for a new brake liight switch for your Pathfinder and look up under the dash where the brake pedal arm goes and you will see the switch. You will need to unplug the wires to your old one and disconnect it and install the new one the same way. It is pretty much self adjusting once the brake pedal is released. If the brake light does not go out adjust the switch pin to be longer so it will depress when the pedal is released

Jun 04, 2008 | 1992 Nissan Pathfinder

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