Question about Buick Regal

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Ican not get the ac belt to line up with all the pulleys car was a part when i got it 350cid ac/ ps/alt i need a diagram or pic of the pulley system with the belts on thank you

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  • richard delisle Sep 09, 2010

    it is a 1976 buick regal 350 cid

  • richard delisle Sep 09, 2010

    the ac and alt are lining up on the same pulley groves and this not right

  • richard delisle Sep 10, 2010

    buick regal 1976 350 cid ac/ps/alt 3beltsystem

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Ok, I have to think the pulleys once aligned. Was the Alternator or other component replaced causing this mis-alignment?
Was there any work done to the vehicle that may have caused this problem?What year and model are we speaking of?

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

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Hi,
Can you give me the year, model and engine model thanks

Jason

Posted on Sep 09, 2010

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first jack up the right front tire side of your car and remove cover under your car motor, so you can see your pulleys from underneath your car, remove black cover where your timing chain belt is thats on the top center between alternator and powersteering pulleys, ok,looking at all your pulleys from your right side of your front end, starting from your top left is your alternator pulley,put belt on it and go underneath the motor mount to your right top powersteering pulley,then go down around the bottom right ac pulley,then to your left bottom crankshaft pulley,the back side of the belt thats on your top alternator pulley wraps around the soft edge pulley thats above your center waterpump pulley,then wrap around the idler pulley that's under your top alternator pulley,then wrap the backside of your remaining belt around the tensioner pulley that's in on your right, under your top ac pulley, use a 13 mm wrench to adjust by turning towards the back of your car so you can slide the belt on

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Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
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(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in Englishicon_cheesygrin.gif ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.

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1 Answer

Belt diagram


start at power steering down to ac compressor to crank...around crank to belt adjuster....over fan pulley to alternator up from alt and over both idler pulleys....a 17mm 12point wrench will fit on adjuster to move it

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