Question about 1993 Buick LeSabre
Most likelt the electrical ignition switch located on the transmission is shot
Just take a volt meter to see if power gets to the solenoid wire. If not replace that switch
Posted on Sep 10, 2010
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it
lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit
suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump,
ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. Has the engine been
getting progressively harder to start? If yes, consider the engine's
maintenance and repair history.
If the battery is low, the next logical step might be to try starting the engine with another battery or a charger. If the engine cranks normally and roars to life, you can assume the problem was a dead battery, or a charging problem that allowed the battery to run down. If the battery accepts a charge and tests okay, checking the output of the charging system should help you identify any problems there.
A charging system that is working properly should produce a charging voltage of somewhere around 14 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage. The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature, the higher the charging voltage. The higher the temperature, the lower the charging voltage. The charging range for a typical alternator might be 13.9 to 14.4 volts at 80 degrees F, but increase to 14.9 to 15.8 volts at subzero temperatures. If the charging system is not putting out the required voltage, is it the alternator or the regulator?
If the engine won't crank or cranks slowly when you attempt to start or jump start the engine (and the battery is fully charged), you can focus your attention on the starter circuit. A quick way to diagnose cranking problems is to switch on the headlights and watch what happens when you attempt to start the engine. If the headlights go out, a poor battery cable connection may be strangling the flow of amps. All battery cable connections should be checked and cleaned along with the engine-to-chassis ground straps.
Measuring the voltage dropacross connections is a good way to find excessive resistance. A voltmeter check of the cable connections should show no more than 0.1 volt drop at any point, and no more than 0.4 volts for the entire starter circuit. A higher voltage drop would indicate excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or tightening.
Slow cranking can also be caused by undersized battery cables. Some cheap replacement cables have small gauge wire encased in thick insulation. The cables look the same size as the originals on the outside, but inside there is not enough wire to handle the amps.
When the engine cranks normally but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition is easy enough to check with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crankshaft position (CKP) sensor.
A tool such as an Ignition System Simulator can speed the diagnosis by quickly telling you if the ignition module and coil are capable of producing a spark with a simulated timing input signal. If the simulated signal generates a spark, the problem is a bad distributor pickup or crankshaft position sensor. No spark would point to a bad module or coil. Measuring ignition coil primary and secondary resistance can rule out that component as the culprit.
Module problems as well as pickup problems are often caused by loose, broken or corroded wiring terminals and connectors. Older GM HEI ignition modules are notorious for this. If you are working on a distributorless ignition system with a Hall effect crankshaft position sensor, check the sensor's reference voltage (VRef) and ground. The sensor must have 5 volts or it will remain permanently off and not generate a crank signal (which should set a fault code). Measure VRef between the sensor power supply wire and ground (use the engine block
for a ground, not the sensor ground circuit wire). Don't see 5 volts? Then check the sensor wiring harness for loose or corroded connectors. A poor ground connection will have the same effect on the sensor operation as a bad VRef supply. Measure the voltage drop between the sensor ground wire and the engine block. More than a 0.1 voltage drop indicates a bad ground connection. Check the sensor mounting and wiring harness.
Tell us news.
Posted on Sep 09, 2010
The voltage can be had from pencil cells too. It is the amperage that counts. The battery may be low. Recharge it and then use it. Also It could be the bendex, a part of the starter motor which engages the flywheel and rotate it. If this goes bad then too you cant crank the engine. It needs to be changed. Try then in this order. The battery charging first and if the problem still persists then the second, ie, the bendex to be replaced.
Posted on Sep 10, 2010
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 10, 2012 | 1999 Buick LeSabre
May 06, 2012 | 2006 Buick LaCrosse
Nov 25, 2011 | 1993 Buick Park Avenue
Nov 12, 2010 | 1993 Buick Park Avenue
Nov 02, 2010 | 1993 Buick LeSabre
Oct 15, 2010 | 1990 Buick LeSabre
Jun 10, 2010 | 1998 Buick LeSabre
Mar 30, 2010 | 1993 Buick LeSabre
Oct 23, 2009 | 1997 Buick LeSabre
Sep 05, 2008 | 1993 Buick LeSabre
1,495 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: