I have a 1990 Class-C Motorhome on an E-350 Chassis. When I first got the unit about 5 months ago I took our maiden trip and after a couple of hours on the highway, followed by a lot of city stop and go driving the RV started pulling. Shortly thereafter the brake pedel was to the floor with all my stopping power at the bottom. After the unit cooled off the pedal pumped back up and seemed fine.
I had the system checked by Ford service and they said they thought it was okay. Several trips and miles later it did same thing again on the way to Florida. Same basic scenario. Couple of hours on the road followed by stop and go 'in-town' driving. After a rest, the pedal pumped back up and I kept going being careful to avoid stop and go driving. No more problems on the remaining 1,000 miles
Lines have been bled and the fluid level is fine. At this point I suspect the master cylinder.
-   I HAD the same problem when we were in Calif. Master cylinder was replace. -   Guest
Best Solution
posted on May 14, 2008
Mini Me - usenet poster
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Not long ago, Dan < As a GUESS, you are abusing the brakes by overheating them to the point that the fluid is boiling, and when that happens you get a low pedal and brakes only on part of the system. (Hey, this is a GUESS, ya know!) If you had a leak your Ford people should have found it - and they SHOULD have warned you about heavy use of the brakes.
Offhand I cannot think of any other diagnosis from this side of the keyboard.
Try going a lot easier on the brakes, shifting down to decel, and see if the problem doesn't go away.
Will KD3XR the Curmudgeon of Sill Hill Before flaming, pause. I post to help rv'ers and annoy morons. Whichever shoe fits, wear it.
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Solution #2
posted on May 14, 2008
Mini Me - usenet poster
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Dan,
Your question is getting a little dated but I just ran across it today. Have been there and done that with my 89 E350 MH. This issue was covered about 2 weeks ago and I'm surprised no one remembered the discussion.
At the root of your problem is fact that your rig came with aluminum pistons in the front calipers. They are GREAT for transfering heat from pads to brake fluid and the piston is in direct contact with both. Ford has had a TSB for a number of years describing this problem and the fix. You need to rebuild the calipers and replace the aluminum pistons with the phenolic replacements.
Another potential contributing factor is rubber dust boots are in contact with back side of pads during first half of the pad's life. If the pads get too hot that can and will melt the boots. Residue can get stuck to piston which can cause drag on the piston and hinder retraction of the piston.
Your discribed symtom sounds like one caliper is draging (cause of pull) and then leads to overheating of brake, over heating of piston and lastly, boiling of fluid.
The repair can be a DIY project but be warned, correctly installing dust boot is VERY difficult without a second pair of hands or tools especially made for this.
Several good suggestions here including the caliper piston. I know exactly what you ae talking about as I have a E 350 MH that I pull a 24' trailoer behind with a race car. I have learned to be careful with the brakes. They will over heat quickly. I did switch to DOT 4 fluid that has a higher boiling point. Also I have had to replace the rotors a couple of times because they crack. If you ever replace a rotor, buy the best ones you can find, not the made in China Cheapos. Good luck with this problem
Jim N.
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Solution #4
posted on May 14, 2008
Mini Me - usenet poster
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The master cylinder or a line from it may be overheating, especially if it's too close to the exhaust manifold. Do you have rear antilock brakes on that van? If so, that system may not be working well or might be contribuiting to the problem.
Tom Boles (Who had a '90 E250 until recently and had a spot of trouble with the brakes due to both overheating (from the exhaust manifold) and from the RABS system...)
That would be the first that I would look as well. The fact that the system pumps back up with the pedal suggests that the internal seals on the master cylinder are leaking and not providing the needed fluid pressure on the first try. They can fail with leaking to the outside and causing fluid loss.
Another thing to check, since it seems heat related, is that the brake drums and rotors might be worn outta specs. With less material on them, they would have a tendancy to heat up more than they should and possibly cause the brake fluid to boil. Did the shop do a complete brake fluid change?
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Solution #6
posted on May 14, 2008
Mini Me - usenet poster
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maybe the brake fluid has filled with moisture from the years of sitting and when its heated during stop and go the pedal fades as the water vapor boils. I suspect i have the same problem with mine and will be bleeding the fluid out and replacing it. good luck make sure the emergency brake is operating :)
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Solution #7
posted on May 14, 2008
Mini Me - usenet poster
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Dan, I think that this "pulling" is a clue. What might be happening is that a front caliper is sticking. If it is pulling to the right then the brake caliper is hanging up and pulling in that direction. Same for the left.
The "shortly" was the time needed to heat and "Boil" the fluid and cause brake fade.
Fluid and caliper cooled off. Look for a caliper not retracting caused by dirt or ?? holding against the rotor. Just a guess. Vince Wirth http://home.earthlink.net/~vincewirth
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