GMC Safari electric windows

David,

I just purchased a 97 Astro and have a similar problem. In
my case, shifting to park seems to fix the problem.

BTW, what MPG in town and on the road do you get?

Doug

It's a mix, but I think I average about 15 mpg. Haven't checked it in
awhile.

There is a circuit breaker built into the switch, I think as a safety
feature to prevent someones head or other body part being crushed if
stuck in the window as it goes up :)

This is what is "tripping" and resetting after a few minutes. Why??

1. Could be a bad motor drawing excess amps and causing the breaker to
trip.
2. Could be a weak breaker, tripping before it should, as was my case.
3. Could be bad slides causeing the motor to work extra hard as in 1.
above.

Don

Did you find the Problem..As mu 95 Safari does same thing Goes part way up then stops..Takes a lot of pushing button every so often to get window up Both side of van

Hello all,

This is a very baffling problem which I believe to have finally figured out the problem(s). The difficult part, is accessing the motor for the window. In my case, I have sucessfully repaired all 4 windows on my Jimmy this way. My windows would almost not open or close

There is a bi-metallic circut or contact point inside the **** of the motor case. Thats the end the wires clip too. Not easy to open. But it can be done.

O.K. after accessing the motor via the door panel. working through the access hole one is tasked with bending the retaining clips open and carefully extracting the end, brushes and armature.

When this is out, clean off the tar and carefully clean the outter and internal contacts. Check Ohmn from both brush boxes. Should be about .2 or .3 Ohms. I had 10.5 Ohms between the bi-metallic and the outer contacts. I cooked the contacts with my soldring iron which burned off the contaminats and restored contact. Retest the ensure resitance was eliminated before reinstalling.

P.S. those brushes are spring loaded so one is going to have to reinstall the armature into the **** and then insert this assembly back up into the housing. Or you can drill out the mounts, remove the motor(s) and work on the bench and then remount everything, which is essentially what you my be facing anyway if this work-around trick didn't work for you...

Good luck!

David,

Each motor does have it's own circuit breaker which will reset after a moment.

I come across this type of problem a lot. The first thing I check is the switches. The contacts get cruddy/charred, not enough current for the motors, things get hot, pop. Same deal with electric doorlocks. They want to engage, but can't quite get there.

I've pulled the switches, scraped the contacts and they worked.

It's usually the drivers window (used the most).

To check this, pull the switch from its plug (I know I'm over simplifying), there'll be three pinholes. Jump the center to one of the outer ones, then the other. If you window functions normally, it's the switch.

Hope this helps

Mike

Thanks for the info. Naturally, the warranty has expired. I will check those
areas.

David

Well, this has been pointless!

I had a similar problem with an 88 Pontiac 6000. It turned out to be the
nylon sliders that slide back and forth in the channel at the bottom of the
door. It had worn out and would cause the window to be slightly cocked.
This would cause greater drag and cause the breaker to to trip. After a few
seconds the breaker would reset and the window would go up a bit more.
After replacing the slider, cleaning the track and relubricating it with
white lithium grease, the problem never returned. Was about the only thing
that worked right on the car when I got rid of it last year.

Tom Miller