What will fail on my ES300??

I also have a 1996 ES 300 with 76800 miles. My check engine light just
came on. I have an appt. for Sat @ the dealer. Any ideas on what it
could be?? I have to get the light turned off to get a inspection.

At this mileage it could be a lot of things, but you are at the point where
a number of sensors for the fuel injection system often fall, typically
either the airflow sensor or one of the O2 sensors. The only approach is to
have the dealer scan the computer for the trouble code. This will point you
to what needs to be replaced. Typically, a sensor repair is a few hundred
dollar job, although it can be more or less.

Your car was built before the stringent set of emissions diagnostic sensors
were required, so it is unlikely to be the "loose gas cap" which is the
first thing you check on a new car.

- Mark

I'm considering buying a 2000 es with 100k miles. Looks in great shape but ofcourse, you never know. Can I use 87 Octane fuel?

Door won't open solution -

My car had the same problem with the right-front door. I could only open it from the outside as if the child locks were on. In my case we removed the door panel overlay completely. It involved removing about 5 screws from the side and bottom of the panel and then lifting the panel upwards as it hangs in the door at the window. It would take a bit of work from here on out, but if you use the door handles from the inside and outside of the car you can see the different parts of the mechanism moving. In my case there was a plastic clip that broke, connecting 2 of the pulley mechanisms that would unlatch the door.

We called lexus and it was about 25 dollars to get a replacement part. I ended up going to Toyota and told them i had a 1996 camry and the part only cost about 4 dollars. If you can find the broken plastic clip in the bottom of you door i'd suggest taking it. Also, you should buy 2 or 3 of these new plastic clips as it is possible to break it while you are installing the new clip.

This is the hardest part - installing it. You'll need someone with petite hands for this as well. After you get the clip you can see/you know where it pops in at you need to place it in there and just pop it in. It actually took me about 10 attempts and half an hour to get it in the right place and pop it in because my hands weren't small enough. Also, there were many times i was worried i would break the new clip because it is plastic and you're putting a lot of pressure on it. However, it worked in the end. I believe lexus estimated between a $300-$500 repair. It only took me about 3 hours and maybe $5, including the drive to Toyota to get the fix-it part.

Hope this helps!

Just took my lexus ES300 to get smog check. Problem with speed not stabilizing. Is this a common prob? how to fix it?

The drivetrain will likely require periodic infusions of money for things
like belts, hoses, filters, O2 sensors, alternators, power steering pumps,
etc., but there is no reason the basic engine and tranny can't go 200K and
further.

If it were my car, I'd be sure the timing belt was changed out as
recommended, do a complete fluids change-out (engine, tranny, power steering
pump, brakes, anti-freeze), replace the air and fuel filters, replace all
the belts/hoses that are still original, get the A/C system recharged, and
have the interior items fixed. The the handling is sub-par, you might
consider new struts. If all this stuff hasn't been done, you might have to
spend a couple grand. Then, you should be good to go a long, long time with
only routine maintenance. The only bad achilles-heel of this model is the
flacky instrument lighting - if this hasn't bit you, you should consider
yourself very lucky.

Notwithstanding corrosion issues in a rust-belt climate, an older, but
well-made, car like this, can do almost indefinitely if you infuse regular
amounts of maintenance like this. But spending $1200/year on maintenance is
a lot cheaper than a $550/month lease payment.

- Mark

On 07 May 2004 11:13:00 GMT, (TANKIE) wrote:

Don't know yet...350K and counting.

Instrument needles are now all dim except for a little part
of the gas guage. All warning lights still work, however.
I can still read the speed and tach -- it's just not very
comfortable to do so. But then, if I just go with the flow
and/or use the speed control, I don't really need to.

Air conditioning went out last year. Turned out to be all
the freon leaked out. Recharged and we're all ok again.

Replaced the engine radiator at maybe 250K. The cost
pleasantly surprized me. The radiator is plastic (never
rusts, though it can crack) and isn't as expensive as all
the older American cars I've known. Nor was the labor all
that expensive.

Engine, tranny, wheel bearings, shocks, muffler, interior
hardware and seats are all still working fine. Wait, I
had to replace the driver's side window mechanism at maybe
200K miles.

I add about 1qt of oil between 5000mile oil/filter changes.

Regarding the timing belt. My manual is very clear in that
I don't need to ever replace it unless I drive at very low
speeds a lot, like a police car patrolling. This seems
real strange to me, but that's what it says. Of course, it
will eventually break. I can't remember ever replacing it,
but maybe I have.

Steering bushing has broken down. Symptoms were an 8" play
in the steering wheel. My mechanic "fixed" it last year
with a radiator hose. This fix only lasted about 6 months.
But it WAS fixed from my perspective during this timeframe.
ANY IDEAS FROM THE KNOWLEGEABLE PEOPLE IN THIS GROUP? I do
not want to replace the whole assembly, but I don't want to
have to fix it every 6 months, either.

Still getting about 24mpg.

I get regular 30000 mile major services.

Oh, and I had to replace the battery in my key!

CB <-- "Knock on wood."

My 1994 ES300 is at 238,000 miles.

I had to replace the headlights at about 100K and again at 200K. I
replaced both at once.
I lost an alternator at 140K
The license tag illumination went at about 150K. I got pulled over for
that. So I replaced all of the lights in the back at that point.
The check engine light has been on continuously since about 150K. I
constantly fuel the thing with the motor running though. A friend of mine
checked the computer error readout with a handheld instrument and told me
that my oxygen danger level indicator meter light failure pre-warning was
telling me something that wasn't important so I forgot.
Air conditioner, all pieces failed between 190 and 220K miles. If you
have to do the air, replace everything because it will save you on labor.
I'm in Florida though so take that with a grain of humidity.
When the AC went it blew the fuse for the dash while I was in the middle
of no-where. I pulled the seat heater fuse and swapped it with the dash
and then didn't turn the AC back on until I got where I was going.
Rear sway bar bushings started making rattling noise at 220K (cheap to
fix)
All seals on windows started making noise and 2 electric windows died at
about 200K
indicator pointers on meters are about 80% still functional but the dead
spots are obvious. Some lights out in the AC controls but that module
costs too much to replace.
All in all it's been a staggeringly good deal. At my 10 year aniversary
for this car I bought an ES330. Now lets hope that the new one lasts like
the old one has. I still have the ES300.

I recommend an old ES300 as a best car to get in the $10,000 price range.
Much better than any new $10,000 car.

Mark: just wanted to say that, the check engine light was the oxygen
sensor. It cost me $264.00 Total.
thanks for the 411.

jerry

Sounds abour right Jerry. You should be good to go for a long time.

- Mark