Question about 2000 Mitsubishi Galant
First step is camshaft removal in order to replacing valve lifters. For this operation you need to replace and install the timing belt.
Timing belt R&R instructions on the Mitsubishi 2.4 L SOHC engine.
The Mitsubishi 2.4 Liter SOHC engine is used in the Galant. It’s important to know that the 2.4 is an interference engine that may end up with bent valves and possibly damaged pistons if the timing belt strips or breaks during driving. The motor includes a main timing belt and a smaller balance shaft belt. Both of these should be replaced at the same time. (The manufacturer recommended replacement interval is every 60,000 miles).
The job of replacing the timing belts on this engine is basically the same, regardless of which vehicle it is in. The subscription is offered in several different levels and is very affordable. It’s a great way to access information without waiting. Use the repair information for a timing belt project today and to refer back to it later if other repairs need to be made at a later date.
There are several precautions keep in mind. It’s always best to disconnect the battery’s ground cable, do not turn the crank shaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Some people prefer to remove the spark plugs to make the engine easier to turn although this is not necessary. Turn the crank shaft in the normal direction of rotation which is clockwise. Do not try to turn the crankshaft by turning the camshaft bolt. It’s always best to use tightening torque specifications provided by the manufacturer.
1. Raise and support the vehicle. If doing this at home use a floor jack and jack stands for safety. Then the right front wheel is removed and then the splash shield. It’s easiest to loosen the water pump bolts before removing the accessory belts, otherwise the entire pulley will turn. Then remove the alternator, AC and power steering belts. After the belts are removed the upper timing cover can be taken off.
2. Always start with the engine at top dead center compression stroke with the timing marks aligned. Find top dead center by removing the #1 spark plug which is closest to the front of the engine and placing a screwdriver or 1/4? extension down the hole. Turn the crank slowly and make sure it doesn’t bind – when the tool that was inserted reaches the highest point, top dead center is reached. Verify with marks.
3. Toward the engine with a block of wood on the floor jack positioned underneath the oil pan. Once the engine is lifted up slightly a motor mount can then be removed.
4. Leave the main crankshaft bolt in place. Remove the smaller bolts holding the crank pulley in place pulley to the side. Then remove the lower timing belt cover.
5. Now look for the timing belt marks and make sure they are aligned. I recommend making some of your own marks as well with white touch up paint or white out. Of course this will not be possible if replacing a broken or stripped belt. But when replacing a belt for maintenance I like the additional assurance, that the extra marks give me.
6. The main belt’s tensioner is hydraulic. The 12 mm bolts are removed and then he tensioner can be placed in a bench vice to be compressed. The pin to hold a tensioner in place is sometimes referred to by mechanics as grenade pins. Sometimes a small drill bit can be used instead of the specific pin. If you are replacing a tensioner it will come with the correct pin.
7. Remove the main timing belt then the balance shaft belt can be removed. It may be necessary to take the crankshaft position sensor off slightly turning the crank to remove the small belt. Be careful not to bend the shield (reluctor) at the back of the pulley this can affect the reading crank shaft position sensor. It some cases it may be necessary to remove the large crank bolt and slide the timing belt pulley and the reluctor out slightly.
8. Now is a good time to replace any pulleys that show any signs of wear. Spin the pulleys to check them for smoothness and side movement. If a tensioner or idler pulley freezes up it can cause a new timing belt to fail. If there are any signs of oil leaks from the seals now is the time to replace cam and crank seals if necessary. At this point you are right at the water pump so replacing that should also be consideration. Replacement is basically reversing the procedure above.
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Posted on Sep 09, 2010
You will need a torque wrench to tighten the shafts to 23 ft/lbs.
You can get one at any auto parts store for around $30. They are not the best you can buy, but for the rocker shafts they are perfectly fine.
The torque wrench has an incremental range of tightness, set the wrench for 23 or as close as the wrench will get, and tighten until the wrench clicks. When it hits the set amount of torque, it releases pressure with the click to prevent over tightening.
Let me know,if needed further assistance.
Hope i helped you.
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Posted on Sep 09, 2010
Remove connection for breather hose and PCV hose. Remove oil filler cap. Remove rocker cover and gasket. Remove oil seals from rocker arms and rocker arm shafts. See Fig. 21 . Install Lash Adjuster Retainer (MD998443) on rocker arm to prevent adjuster from falling out of rocker arm. See Fig. 22 . Uniformly loosen rocker shaft mounting bolts, and remove rocker shaft assembly. Remove camshaft. If removing lash adjusters from rocker arms, mark for installation reference
Posted on Sep 09, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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