Question about 1986 Ford Econoline

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I had the unfortunate experince of some trying to steal my 1986 Ford E350, in trying to steal it they mesed up the ignition cylinder. I have gotten a new ignition cylinder, I have succesfully removed the stearing wheel, I can see what is left of the cylinder and can turn the metal that's left to some degree, I know I am supposed depress something to remove the old cylinder? What I see is a square device that moves down when I turn the cylinder, I also see a round device that moves the same way and time as the square. Is one of the two what I am to depres to remove the cylinder?

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  • fsusem36 Sep 08, 2010

    I had the unfortunate experince of some trying to steal my 1986 Ford E350, in trying to steal it they mesed up the ignition cylinder. I have gotten a new ignition cylinder, I have succesfully removed the stearing wheel, I can see what is left of the cylinder and can turn the metal that's left to some degree, I know I am supposed depress something to remove the old cylinder? What I see is a square device that moves down when I turn the cylinder, I also see a round device that moves the same way and time as the square. Is one of the two what I am to depres to remove the cylinder? additonal info: this is a non-tilting, the key will not fit due to dammage so turning the key to the run position is difficult. Please only answer if you have done this on a 1986 Ford E350!

  • fsusem36 Sep 08, 2010

    I need a more detailed answer than I have so far gotten please.

  • fsusem36 Sep 08, 2010

    Best answer out of 4 tries, thanks!

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  • Ford Master
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Right try turning the lock to aux position then you should be able to push the pin down thats in this hole and it pulls out,must be AUX position or you will never move it ,then when its done visit the auto factor and buy a steering wheel lock that clamps to the steering wheel or a length of chain and a nice padlock and chain it from seat fixing to steering wheel .,they see that and they will look for another vehicle to get home in

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

  • Colin Stickland
    Colin Stickland Sep 09, 2010

    if you cannot find this round hole with a pin in then it may not be a complete hole ,look on the new lock barrel and you will see the pin hold it against the lock then you will know where to look ,and if need be drill a small hole so you push the pin down ,have to do this on older VWs

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  • Ford Master
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YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO LIFT SWITCH UPWARD TO DISENGAGE THE ACTUATOR ROD AND REMOVE THE SWITCH.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

  • Jonah Oneal Sep 08, 2010

    TO REMOVE IGNITION SWITCH DISCONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN. SHROUD AND LOWER THE STEERING COLUMN.DISCONNECT THE SWITCH WIRING AT THE MULTIPLE PLUG. REMOVE THE 2 NUTS THAT HOLD THE SWITCH TO THE STEERING COLUMN. LIFT THE SWITCH UPWARD TO DISENGAGE THE ACTUATOR ROD AND REMOVE THE SWITCH.****** TO INSTALL ***** WHEN INSTALLING THE SWITCH BOTH THE LOCKING MECHANISM AT THE TOP OF COLUMN AND THE SWITCH ITSELF MUST BE IN THE LOCK POSITION FOR CORRECT ADJUSTMENT. TO HOLD THE MECHANICAL PARTS OF THE COLUMN IN THE LOCK POSITION MOVE THE SHIFT LEVER INTO PARK IF EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OR REVERSE IF EQUIPPED WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION ,TURN KEY TO LOCK POSITION AND REMOVE THE KEY.NEW REPACEMENT SWITCHES ARE ALREADY PINNED IN THE LOCK POSITION BY A METAL SHIPPING PIN INSERTED IN A LOCKING HOLE ON THE SIDE OF THE SWITCH. ENGAGE THE ACTUATOR ROD IN THE SWITCH IT MUST BE INSERTED IN THE SLOT OF THE SLIDING CARRIER. POSITION THE SWITCH ON THE COLUMN AND INSTALL THE RETAINING NUTS BUT DO NOT TIGHTEN THEM. MOVE THE SWITCH UP AND DOWN ALONG THE COLUMN TO LOCATE THE MID POSITION OF ROD LASH. TIGHTEN THE 2 IGNITION SWITCH RETAINING NUTS TOP NUT FIRST TO MINIMIZE ROD BINDING TO*** 40 - 65 INCH LBS *** REMOVE THE LOCKPIN, CONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE AND CHECK FOR PROPER START IN PARK OR NEUTRAL MAKE SURE THE STARTER CANNOT BE ACTUATED IN DRIVE OR REVERSE AND THAT THE ENGINE WILL SHUT OFF IN DRIVE, REVERSE, OR NEUTRAL. IF THE ENGINE WILL NOT SHUT OFF IN THESE POSITIONS, THE SWITCH IS NOT ADJUSTED PROPERLY AND WILL HAVE TO BE READJUSTED AS FOLLOWS. ROTATE THE IGNITION KEY BACK AND FORTH TO EITHER SIDE OF THE LOCK, UNTIL A 5/64 INCH DRILL BIT CAN BE INSERTED THROUGH THE LOCKPIN HOLE AS FAR AS POSSIBLE MINIMUM 3/8 INCH 9.5MM THE LOCK PIN HOLE IS LOCATED ON THE RIGHT OF THE SWITCH NEXT TO THE STEERING COLUMN TUBE.LOOSEN THE 2 IGNITION SWITCH MOUNTING NUTS. TURN THE IGNITION KEY TO LOCK FEELING FOR THE DETENT AND REMOVE THE IGNITION KEY.MOVE THE SWITCH UP AND DOWN ALONG THE COLUMN TO LOCATE THE MID POSITION OF ROD LASH.TIGHTEN THE 2 IGNITION SWITCH MOUNTING NUTS TOP NUT FIRST TO MINIMIZE ROD BINDING TO 40 - 65 INCH LBS. REMOVE THE DRILL BIT FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH LOCKPIN HOLE.PLUG IN THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR AND OPERATE THE LOCK CYLINDER TO MAKE SURE THE SWITCH IS POSITIONED PROPERLY.CHECK THAT ALL ACCESSORIES ARE DEACTIVATED WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION AND THAT ALL ACCESSORIES ARE OPERABLE IN RUN POSITION. RAISE THE STEERING COLUMN INTO POSITION AND INSTALL THE STEERING SHROUD. CHECK THAT ALL ACCESSORIES ARE DEACTIVATED WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE OFF POSITION AND THAT ALL ACCESSORIES ARE OPERABLE IN RUN POSITION.******** IF THIS DONT HELP YOU NEED A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.BECAUSE A IGNITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT IS HARD TASK TO REPLACE WITHOUT MANUAL.

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  • Master
  • 1,297 Answers

Look under the steering wheel, just where the base of the cylinder is and look for a little tiny hole about 3/32

typically a paperclip will fit

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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