Toyota 1994 corolla missing hesitating stalling out

I have the same problem on a 92'. New plus, cap, rotor, wires, fuel
filter, cleaned injectors.. Still does it. HELP !

Could this be a fuel pump problem? It seems to hesitate less when the tank
is completely full of gas! It has a certain spot in acceleration right
when you start to accelerate the gas pedal just barley giving the car gas,
or after you have let off the accelerator and then try easing the
accelerator pedal slightly. The car runs great at high acceleration. or
even half way on the pedal? Very confusing

Thanks
vstar

Check your wire insulations at night by starting the engine and see if there
are any sparks fly from your wires to the engine. If yes replace wires or
apply electrical insulation tapes and then fastened with cable ties.
"vstar" < :

Still not enough details to make me go "That's It!" but here are a
few ideas to chew on... (IOW, places I'd check first.)

Check the air intake hose between the air filter and the engine for
leaks or cracks - air leaks downstream of the air flow meter will
cause lean conditions and stumbling, especially as the engine shifts
in it's mounts and the hose flexes...

Some cars have an 'idle speed air control valve' which is run by the
EFI computer with a small electric motor. They go bad or get clogged
with varnish and dirt, then it has a hard time getting the car to
idle. Find it (a Repair Manual will show you where to squirt) and
flush with carburetor cleaner. Sometimes you have to unbolt the valve
from the body to get at the operating end and flush the chamber.

(The dealer will just try to sell you a new IAC Valve, and they're
expensive - cleaning usually works fine from what I've heard here.)

And some cars have problems where the airflow meter flapper itself
(or the pivot shaft) gets dirty, and doesn't send the computer good
information at those lazy acceleration settings just off idle - but
stomp on it hard and it pops to the non-sticky range of operation.
Again, time to hit it with carburetor cleaner in strategic spots.

And ignition problems can cause this, but the odds are low. Stop by
the dealer and get a set of plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor if
they're still the originals. Be very wary of aftermarket ignition
parts, the quality is all over the map, and when you have to route
around 50,000 volts the quality matters. The factory units have very
tight QC and stringent materials requirements and (almost) always work
right - so you spend another $5, big whoop, better than doing it over.

Don't worry about changing the fuel filter until the last resort -
unless you have been feeding the car really crappy nasty fuel every
fill-up, it's a lifetime filter (250,000 miles) for all practical
purposes. Plus, they're a gold-plated bastard to change on most
Toyota's, buried way down inside the frame rails with fittings
factory-tightened by a gorilla with an attitude.

I only carry a spare fuel filter because it's better than walking in
from 10 miles off-road on the rare chance it clogs, I expect it'll
still be in the factory box for another 100,000 miles.

--<< Bruce --
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

I have done the 20 valve silver top converion to a ae92 and found that i need to wire the idle up (input to the computer which there are a few for various reasons) to stop lights etc.

Did you replace the dist. cap and button? Check the computer for codes. IT
could be an injector problem but not likely. If all this fails try going
to a dealer for proper diagnosis.

Thanks for the information. Will give it a try
vstar

I have been using 93octane gas and it does seem to run smoother and less
missing