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Consumes oil through the intake - 2004 Chevrolet Malibu

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That means you have a lot of blow by and you need to rebuid it or replace the motor

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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07 saturn outlook 3.6l fwd. leaking oil from under the intake manifold


Did you ever find the source of the oil leak from under the intake?

Nov 15, 2013 | 2000 Saturn SL

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Where does one investigate oil consumption in a 1.8 liter turbo engine in a 2001 vw golf using 1-quart every 50 to 100 miles driven, no tail pipe smoke and no leakes on drive way when parked overnight. I...


If you don't drive this little beast hard the oil could be migrating to the charge pipes and inter cooler.

Usually the turbo is likely culprit when oil consumption reaches those levels. Pull the spark plugs to see if the tips are loading up with carbon deposits.

You can pull the lower hose of the inter cooler...drivers side under the bumper....and see if oil pours out. If so the turbo is shot.

Another way oil is consumed is valve stem seals allowing oil down the intake valve guides. Cure is a set of valve stem seals.

Aug 21, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

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Excessive fuel consumption on vw caravelle 2.5i


Clogged PCV Valve
The main purpose of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. Blow by is a mixture of air, gasoline and combustion gases forced past the rings on the combustion stroke. The PCV system usually has a tube leading from the crankcase to the carburetor or intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake of air and fuel.
Worn Piston Ring Grooves
For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered - and the rings must have the correct side clearance in the grooves. Normally, automotive ring groove side clearance should not exceed .002-.004. As the pistons move up and down, the rings must seat on the sides of the grooves in very much the same way that valves must seat to prevent leakage. New rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber. Worn grooves are usually flared or tapered causing increased side clearances which permit more than the normal amount of oil to pass the rings into the combustion chamber. Excessive side clearances also create a pounding effect by the rings on the sides of the piston grooves. This promotes piston groove wear and, if the condition is not corrected, breakage of rings lands may occur.
Cracked or Broken Ring Lands
Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping by a process similar to that described in #7. In addition to this, they also lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement and this should be done as soon as there is the slightest indication of a crack.
Worn Valve Stems and Guides
When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides, into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned. If this condition is not corrected when new piston rings are installed, an engine is likely to use more oil than it did before because the new piston rings will increase the vacuum in the intake manifold. When gum or deposits on the valve stems are removed - a procedure recommended when overhauling an engine - the seal previously formed will be removed and leakage will be more pronounced. This is particularly true on overhead valve engines where loss of oil may occur on the exhaust valves as well as on the intake valves. High oil consumption caused by too much valve guide clearance can frequently be cured by reaming or nerraling the valve stem. In some cases new valves may also be required. Use of a permanently bonded valve stem seal will give added insurance against oil leakage on complete engine overhauls or on valve jobs. Large Oil Leaks Leaking valve cover gaskets, leaking crankshaft front and rear seals.

Apr 24, 2011 | Volkswagen Microbus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My toyata 1994 automatic gear is consuming fuel more than usual..i replace oil , air filter, ignition bulb


inlet manifold loose tighten all bolts, or air coming in , spray wd40 around the air intake if the revs go up, you have an air leak fix as required

Jun 08, 2010 | 1994 Toyota Corolla

2 Answers

2005 Chrysler 300 consumes a quart or two of oil every 3,000 mile


It is not normal for a car with 29,000 miles on it to consume this amount of oil in 10,000 miles. We usually change our oil between 3 and 5 thousand miles and thus may not notice small amounts consumed but certainly not 1-2 quarts. It is more likely that you are leaking oil, but if it is burning it, that is a real problem. If the car was pre-owned do a CARFAX. If it was wrecked, find out was was done. If the odometer is correct, this car needs to be inspected by a professional. I can tell you to look for unburned oil in the tailpipe, smoking exhuast, leaks from the oil pan and drain. Change the oil and filter and closely monitor the level.

Jul 27, 2009 | 2005 Chrysler 300

1 Answer

Always low on oil


if it's 5.2 or 5.9 engine,the intake manifold plenum pan gasket may be drawing oil from lifter valley of engine..remove air cleaner and check down inside manifold with throttle plates wide open and look for oil pooling inside intake..if there is oil in there,you to remove intake manifold and replace gasket and bolts holding rectangular pan to bottom of intake..you will need intake gaskets as well..suggest going to dealer for parts..fairly inexpensive as well..i hope this helps

Jul 19, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Check engine light shows misfires in two cylinders and backfires.


Yes it could. make sure to use the correct champion plugs as well. Make sure your firing order is correct as the intake shouldn't cause a back fire. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

Jun 29, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

How hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder


It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.

you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).  
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)

When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.

After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.

To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off. 

Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).

Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.

Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing. 
  Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner. 
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:


May 02, 2009 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

1996 jetta runs very rich


Hi!
From your brief desription I feel maybe the problem is located elsewhere, however to start helping with your request you could possibly purchase some intake cleaner, there are quite a few on the market that vary in cost. I have had fantastic results with (Hot Shot Power Boost) it is a tall aerosol can not too expensive and you spray it sensibly directly into to your intake manifold or down the throat of Carburated Engines whilst running on tickover.(Follow instructions fully)
Another way is to use additives in the fuel but this is time consuming and takes forever to achieve results, finally you could remove the whole intake system and clean it with solvents in a parts washer?
I feel the main reason possibly is Engine Breathing, when an engine wears the bores and piston rings allow gasses to pass into the crankcase therefore pressurising the engine slightly, this forces oil out of any weak area's and mainly from breather pipes such as into air intake.
Maybe a good engine oil flush and quality oil replacement with filter might help but in the long run you'll have to live with it.
If when warm you take the pipe from the engine to the Air filter off does is blow blueish vapour? if it does then you could filter it away from the intake to save clogging.
Good Luck!
Hope this FixYa's problem?
Paul 'W'

Jan 04, 2009 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

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