Question about Chrysler Crossfire
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: i got codes p0410 and p1411
You are correct, these are secondary air injection codes. It is under the passenger side intake manifold. There's 3 pieces that
can be bad, an electric vacuum switch that's controlled by the ecu, the
control valve which is activated by vacuum from the first part and a
one-way valve. Also, a vacuum leak in the circuit can cause the same
fault code. The one-way valve can be checked simply by blowing into it,
it should allow flow in the direction of the arrow but not the other.
The vacuum control valve can be tested off the car by applying a vacuum
to it, it will make a clear thunking noise when it activates. I'm not sure
how to test the electric solenoid, since it is activated by the ECU it
would work off of 5 volts. It seems like all 3 pieces would run about
$100 so it would not be out of the question to replace all 3 while
you're in there. Make sure
you orient the electric valves the way they are on the car or you'll
get the codes again.
The only sketchy thing about doing it yourself is that you do have to remove the plastic intake manifold on that side, and it is a real PITA to get to. Evidently it is fine to re-use the o-ring gasket that seals it to the aluminum stacks. I hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
And some instructions
Caution: Allow the engine to cool before servicing the secondary air injection AIR system in order to reduce the chance of severe burns.
1. Remove the clamp from the check valve.
2. Disconnect the AIR hose from the check valve.
3. Remove the check valve from the left side AIR pipe.
4. Remove the left AIR pipe from the exhaust manifold.
5. Before replacing a check valve, test the valve for proper operation.
5.1. Install a vacuum pump to the nipple side of the check valve, AIR pump side.
5.2. Pump the vacuum pump to 10 inches Hg and observe the gauge.
5.3. Replace the check valve if the vacuum bleeds down to zero within 5 seconds.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
1.Install the check valve onto the AIR pipe.
Tighten the check valve to the AIR pipe to 23 N·m (17 lb ft).
2.Connect the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Tighten the AIR pipe to the exhaust manifold to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
3. Install the AIR hose to the check valve.
4. Install the check valve clamp.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
most ecu controlled vehicles have a 'limp home'mode if 2 or more fault codes are stored,it is designed to get your attention before damage is caused and to get you to the nearest w.shop to fix,i would have codes cleared and retest vehicle,it is the cheapest and 1st option for any shop,some late models even have excessive mileage past service interval in the 'limp' program
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
The air injection reaction system (AIR) is on all 2004+ 4.2's. There is an electric blower under the truck, tucked inside the frame rail about under the drivers seat. The blower draws it's clean air from a hose tied into the air inlet tube between the airfilter box and Throttle body, pressurizes it slightly and blows this clean air into a port in the cylinder head directly above the exhaust manifold, dead center. There is a can shaped check valve bolted to this port with the air hose clamped to it and an electrical connection. The most common failure point of this system is this check valve. Remove the hose, the electrical connection and 2 bolts and it's off. Very easy. Problem is, it's about a $125 dealer only item.:banghead: The check valve gets corroded/cruded up and doesnt seat. Let it go long enough and moisture from the exhaust can back flow into the system and destroy the $$$ electric air blower. I'd start by removing and checking the valve and check the hoses for water.
Inspect the air pump and wire harness under the Trailblazer's frame rail, since you did mentioned that your had your transmission serviced and they would have had to work under there to remove the transmission pan to replace the transmission fluid and filter. There are 2 fuses you need to check also. AIR fuse 60amp....AIR solenoid fuse 15amp.
Good luck and thank you for using Fixya
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
If you have a "Air pump installed on your TB then you need to replace pump and or check to make sure that the hose's are all connect to it prior to replacing the pump which is dependisng on which engine you have on the lower left side (passenger)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, S10
1999-2001 GMC Jimmy
1999-2003 GMC Sonoma
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
All with 2.2L or 4.3L Engine (VINs 4, H, 5, W -- RPOs LN2, L43, L35)
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon
investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating there is a concern in the
secondary air injection system.
This concern may be attributed to water that may have collected in the AIR pump or the
vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.
Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using
the following procedure:
1. Prep vehicle.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove shield covering AIR pump.
4. Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
5. Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
6. Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
7. Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
8. Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
9. Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle. Tighten the bolts to 17N·m (12.5 lb ft).
10. Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near
the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
11. Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
12. Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
13. Connect electrical connector to pump.
14. Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
15. Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
16. Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
17. Install shield covering AIR pump.
18. Lower vehicle.
19. Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
20. Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
21. Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut
back into the vehicle.
22. Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four
cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an
available hole in the radiator fan shroud.
Part Number Description Quantity
Posted on Apr 13, 2010
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