Question about 1996 Toyota Corolla

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I have a brake binding problem i changed the master cylinder twice,change the flexible brake lines and changed the seals of the front calipers and cleaned the pistons of the calipers too.

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If you have a frozen caliper, (rusty piston stuck inside calipers cylinder), then you have to options:
Replace the caliper piston and sea,l with a new one, or replace all thing i.e, the caliper. Hope will help.

Posted on Sep 08, 2010

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Iv had a couple of mechanics trying to fix my brakes bt dey can't get it write. de problem is dat it binds de front wheels. changed de calipas, booster, master and yet its not fine


What normally cause the brakes to bind?

1. Pistons in the brake caliper binding so they will not slide back when pressure is released. If you have new calipers that should not be the issue.

2. The brake caliper is not sliding on the slide pins so that when the brakes are released the caliper sticks in position. If the calipers are new and the slide pins are properly lubricated that should not be an issue.

3. The flexible brake lines have deteriorated and are blocked so that when the brakes are released the brake fluid will not flow back up the lines to the master cylinder. You may be able to push brake fluid through the lines and overcome the blockage under full braking pressure but when that pressure is released the blockage in the brake line will not allow the fluid to flow back. When that happens the brakes will remain applied to some extent. If the flexible brake lines are more than 7 -8 years old I would suspect they might be the problem and when they deteriorate they do so from the inside and often near the ends.

4. The brake pads when fitted to the caliper must be fitted in the correct position. There is an inner pad and outer pad. If they have been reversed so that the outer pad is fitted in the inside position and the inner pad in the outside position, when you apply the brakes they will bind. Don't assume the pads have been fitted properly because so called professional mechanics still make this mistake when fitting brake pads. This is the first thing I would check before looking at anything else.
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This is a very frustrating problem for you because you expect professionals to find problems and fix your brakes the first time.
I hope this helps and you manage to sort the problem.

Nov 23, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

I have no brakes


When you say that the first master cylinder had no pedal, did that just suddenly happen?

A master cylinder has rubber seals inside - think of a bicycle pump - when the bicycle pump seal wears it becomes difficult to pressurise it. The same is true of a master cylinder.
A classic sign of a master cylinder with worn or perished seals is that it needs pumping a few times to pressurise but there is no leakage of brake fluid.

Prior to you changing the master cylinder had the level of the brake fluid dropped .. indicating a leak somewhere? Had you done any work on the brake pads/rotors?

Eliminate other causes of air getting into the braking system:

First thing to do is check the flexible brake hoses on each wheel. Get a friend to pump - and hold - the brake pedal while you inspect the flexible hoses. Check for leaks (obviously) but also look to see if each flexible hose 'bulges' anywhere along its length.

25932867-jil1jjwvkur0lkeilf3pe4be-4-0.jpeg Also check each flexible hose to see if it is perished or wet with fluid. 25932867-jil1jjwvkur0lkeilf3pe4be-4-1.jpeg A perished flexible hose can draw in air and cause no pedal/spongy pedal. The same is true with a flexible hose that bulges/balloons when under pressure.

It only takes a slight 'weeping' from a flexi hose or rigid pipe connection to allow air into the system. Check the rigid brake pipes too - especially where there is a connector/join.

Then remove the road wheels and look for the slightest fluid leak around caliper pistons.

The problem, I think, comes back to the original fault .. no pedal when your car had sat overnight. This is rather indicative of air getting into the system somewhere though not necessarily from the master cylinder.

Check for the slightest leak in the entire braking system. It only takes a small amount of air to get in and cause problems. The fact that you fitted a second master cylinder makes me think the problem could lie elsewhere.

Try bleeding the braking system. It's a 2 man job, but quite easy.
Here's a link that explains how to do it:
How to Bleed Your Brakes

Good luck!

Oct 30, 2015 | 1988 Plymouth Reliant

1 Answer

Why won't the caliper retract when I loosen the bleeder valve?


I would have said a seized caliper but if you changed that and it still did it then I would assume it's ur master BUT... if it was your master then both calipers would be lazy. I would check the lines to the problem caliper for kinks or pinches. Also check your proportioning valve

May 11, 2017 | 1999 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

Binding front disk brakes


The caliper or the slider bushings are binding.Remove the caliper mounting bolts,you should be able to move the sliders with moderate pressure by hand.If not,press the sliders out(with a C clamp or something like that) and clean the bore out.(a wheel cylinder honing brush works well).Clean the bushings with a Scotchbrite cloth,coat with silicone grease,and reassemble.

Jun 29, 2012 | 1990 Dodge Spirit

2 Answers

Trying to find out if my master cylinder is bad? I Replaced my front caliper it is still not retracting Broke flex line to bleed caliper, caliper retracts I think its my master but not sure


it could be the master cylinder most likely but there is a possibility the rubber lines going to the calipers if it were me i'd replace the rubber lines and the master cylinder

Oct 17, 2009 | 1998 Mercury Villager

2 Answers

Suzuki Vitara front brakes seizing intermitantely.


Be sure you have changed the break oil completely. Otherwise drain the hydraulic system and renew with correct type of oil. If you have a ABS system you have to check that also.

Jul 17, 2009 | 1999 Suzuki Vitara

2 Answers

1997 VW brakes (not a GLS)....was driving and had to step hard on brakes due to truck veering into my lane and the brake went all the way to the floor. Up to that point brakes were fine. I only have 73000...


Bad brake line somewhere or bad brake cylinders. The extreme braking you did to avoid the truck poped a weak brake line "most likely" or brake cylinder.

Jun 23, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Unable to bleed front brakes


loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck

Jul 01, 2008 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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