Question about Chevrolet Cavalier

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My brakes feel like they are barely working the last few weeks they have slowly begun to need more pressure applied to the pedal i'm told that the lines need to be bleed out

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Yes, but you probably have a leak. First check the reservoir fluid level. If the level is full, the indication is a failed master cylinder. If the level is low, you have a leak. The leak could be behind the master cylinder or at any one of the 4 wheels or could even be a bad brake line. If you have more questions, please get back to us.

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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Sounds like they need to be bled yes to bleed them the easiest way is to have someone in the car and someone else to turn the bleeder screw on the caliper. as the person inside pushes the brake the bleeder screw needs to be looosened and closed after screw is tightthe person inside needs to release the pedal and this must be done repeatedly until u start to get flow of brake fluid out of the brake bleeder hole. make sure to top off brake fluid after .

Posted on Sep 07, 2010


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1 Answer

Why is it so hard to apply brake pedal?

_______power brake booster, check vacuum to booster and the check valve for brake booster. primary symtom is high hard pedal that requires greater then normal pedal pressure to stop car. testing booster= pump brakes several times with engine off to deplete stored vacuum. turn on engine with pushing slightly on brake pedal. you should be able to feel the pedal fade away a bit, and then become firm. But not hard. if you feel nothing at the pedal when engine starts. Brake booster is not working. Good-day! make sure vacuum is going to booster with engine running. it may just be a bad vacuum line or check valve.

Apr 30, 2014 | 1984 Buick Skyhawk

1 Answer

Is there air in my ABS of my '92 thunderbird lx?

ABS isn't so much a thing as a system, but if you want to know how to bleed your brake system you place a tranparent tube on one of the brake cylinder valves/nipples, then imerse the end of the tube in a small bottle with some brake fluid in. Then you get someone to press the pedal down slowly as you open the valve/nipple. They should pump a few times slowly, then with the pedal down close the valve/nipple. Check to see if the pedal is harder. You should do this with both front and rear brakes, as they are seperate lines. The ABS is a system that ballances the brakes to stop slewing across the road when you apply the pedal too hard. The part attached to the master cylinder is actually a servo, which should have a tube go from it to the inlet manifold of the engine. This causes a vacuum in the servo, which when applying the brakes helps the brakes by taking away some of the pressure needed. If this pipe is broken or not connected, then your sevo won't work. There is an easy way to check your servo. Press the pedal down, then start the engine, you should feel the pedal go down a bit more. If it does not, check the servo tube.

May 20, 2012 | 1992 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer


The pulsing is usually caused by a warped rotor. Rotors warp from quick stops and rapid braking techniques. It could also possibly be a weakening Master cylinder or a leaky diaphragm in the brake boost, but this last would be accompanied by a hissing sound when you hit the brakes. To check the rotors, block the rear wheels and raise the front until the wheels are off the ground. Spin the wheels individually by hand slowly - they should roll smoothly. If they do , have a helper apply very light pressure to the brake pedal with the engine running and again spin the wheel. With the wheel spinning, have the helper apply increasingly more pressure to the brake pedal until it stops the wheel from turning. Now have them back off the pedal slightly so you can spin the wheel again and spin, looking for uneven rolling. Check both front wheels to show which rotor is warped. If either is warped, you'll need to have the rotors resurfaced ( turned) and replace the pads both sides.
If they turn smoothly through all of the tests, apply solid pressure to the brake pedal until you can't push it any farther and hold that pressure. Watch the pedal for sinking. If it sinks, then you either have air in the system or a bad Master cylinder. Bleed the brakes first before you replace the master and do the pressure test again. If you don't find anything at this point, start the engine and do the brake pressure test again. If the pedal sinks, then you may have a vacuum leak in the booster and will need to do a vacuum test on the booster to make sure, since that job is usually hard to do and may be costly, depending on the style of booster you have.
Hope this helps!!

Dec 10, 2010 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...

try this ABS bleeding procedure:


Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
    3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
    6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.

Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Open the bleeder valve.
    3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
    4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

  4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
  7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
    3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
    7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

  8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
  9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
  10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

  11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

2 Answers

We understand that your problem is: 92 Jeep

This is a typical master cylinder failure. PRE bleed a new m/c and install that.

Sep 19, 2010 | 1992 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

Intermittently I need to press harder to get the brakes to work.

sounds like your master cylinder is beginning to internally bypass. By releasing and re-applying the pedal you are essentially "pumping" the pedal, to regain pressure. A quick check is to apply moderate pressure to the pedal and hold it. If the pedal begins to sink, replace the master.
Also check everything for small leaks that slowly bleed system of fluid and permit air to enter. (especially wheel cylinders and backside of master cyl.)

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1 Answer

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May 15, 2008 | 2003 Chevrolet Equinox

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