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No braking assist, rushing sound (air escaping)wheng brake pedal applied.

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HI this sounds like the vacuum booster has a leak in the diaphragm. That is why you hear that sound when you push on the brake pedal. With out the vacuum to help this leaves you with a very stiff brake pedal. You will need to replace the Booster which is located behind the brake master cylinder and on the firewall. Good luck

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

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Why does it sound like air escaping when brakes applied in my 1998 chev k2500?


Diaphragm in the brake booster has busted the sound you are hearing is vacuum from the engine escaping into the cab

Jul 06, 2014 | 1989 Chevrolet K1500

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My 2003 chevy trailblazer has expierenced a soft brake pedal for the past two years. The vehicle will brake when pedal is applied however when stopped you can push the pedal to the floor. I have replaced...


Sounds like you have air in one or more brake lines. All four brake lines needs to be bled to get all air no matter how little air is in them. Recommendations use two people to do this one in vehicle one at the wheel you are bleeding. Loosen bleeder,attach a rubber tube that fits tight around fitting, get a glass jar, (I use a baby food jar) put a little brake fluid in jar so the tube doesn't **** back in air, slowly apply brake and watch air bubbles in jar, do this until no more air bubbles come out. You must do this on all four wheels to be effective. If this doesn't work there is a leak somewhere. Lines, caliper, or wheel cylinder.
Happy Motoring!!!!!!

Mar 21, 2011 | Chevrolet TrailBlazer EXT Cars & Trucks

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I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

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For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

3 Answers

Why do i hear air when i press the brake pedal


well, you don't really hear air when you press the brake pedal. You might hear hydraulic fluid going through the valves in the master cylinder, that sounds like air flowing through a vent. But, I assure you, it is not air.

One can press and pump on the pedal when the car is off and hear the 'rush' of fluid which sounds kind of like air rushing out of an inner tube.

It's a common mistake to believe a rush of air is being heard when pushing on the brake pedal.

Aug 26, 2010 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Brakes spongy after shop replaced rotors braked pads on 2001 buic


Sounds like air is still in the brake lines, the air sound that you hear is the power assist, but the brake pedal needs to be "high and hard".

if the pedal goes to the floor, that is not good. Sometimes, when pumping brakes for bleeding purposes, the master cylinder gets damaged, as the piston goes past it's normal "travel zone" and gets damged on deposits.....

Now, with that being said, if everything was perfect, brakes are typically not as firm after replacement, due to differences in new pads/shoes and old rotors and drums. Pedal to the floor, however, is never okay.

Doc

Sep 18, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

94 s10 chevy 2wd brake pedal fades to floor before stoping


Might check around the big black round muffin shaped chamber adjacent to the master cylinder for a loose vacuum hose or crack therin; the hissing sound seems likely to be the air rushing in as you loose the vacuum that supplies the power to assist your braking effort (power brakes)---as this goes, so goes your peddle until it reaches the actual piston pushing the brake fluid (which should be firm like with non-power brakes).
...maybe have an assistant push on the peddle while you listen with a piece of hose or a stethescope to find the leak (or I suppose the power unit diaphragm could be shot/leaking--hence replacement), but since you said after bumpy road etc, one could hope for a simple dislodged vacuum hose or fixable crack.

Aug 08, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

Hard brake pedal while applying brakes


with the sound of air when applying the brakes, sounds like a bad power brake booster, located behind the master cylinder,large round peice

Jul 06, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

When u press on the brakes on my expedition, i hear air escaping.


If it is a constant hiss with your foot on the pedal, you have a bad brake booster. If you hear a hiss, and nothing else while holding the pedal, it is the air escaping from the booster boot, and should not pose a problem.

Jun 11, 2009 | 2003 Ford Expedition

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94 buick brakes


Sounds like a bad master cylinder. Possibly a bad power booster with the leak you are describing. Check for leaks in lines/hoses/wheel cylinders as well.

Mar 07, 2009 | 1994 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Hissing sound from brake pedal of Renault Scenic 2001


Hi,
From your description this appears to be a Brake servo issue.
The brakes are assisted by a vacuum created from the draw off the inlet manifold, it gives assistance too the brake pedal pressure by a large tank/cylinder mounted on the Bulkhead/firewall.
I feel that the sound you a hearing is air being draw into the Brake Servo from the foot pedal seal and the reason for fluctuation in the engine is the vacuum from the inlet manifold is being upset.
Attention I suspect should be addressed to the Brake servo/pedal seal or gaitor.
I hope this clarifies your thoughts?
Please remember to rate my effort.
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDSon(:0) {#><U.K.

Jan 22, 2009 | 2000 Renault 181

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