Question about Jaguar X-Type

2 Answers

Driving a Jag X-Type 3.0 and the engine control-light sometimes lights and goes off, lighting mostly by warm weather. Have been to my service and they told me to change the catalysator because they found the following on the calculator: P0480, P0057, P0174, P0171 P0430. Is it really true or may the problem be something else? If it really is a problem of the catalysator, how could it get caused / is it possible to avoid such problems for the future? I'm really grateful for every and any kind of help!

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  • hyperalex Sep 07, 2010

    Hi Kapishtech, thx for your quick and profund answer. I still have to comment a bit:

    So that means, that I don't need to worry about the cooling fan. I have observed that it adapts nicely to the motor heat and that It remains constantly with 90°. With P0057 I'm not so sure about the proposals but I will test it (can you tell me where to find tose wires - perhaps you've got a picture in which I could see the position), because the check engine light also switches off, which means, that it isn't a constant error, is it? P0174 / P0171 has a lean air/fuel ratio so it writes that it's too much air in it. I also thought of a MAF sensor and changed it (didn't put the original one, but a cheaper one, to me it seems that it works nicely), but I also don't think, that it's a problem of fuel supply because the motor makes a nice "round" noise and it doesn't vibrate like with getting too much or too few fuel. P0430 I'm worrying that i might have to change the catalyst. I'm sorry but i couldn't find neither a translation for the "catalyst stator" nor a picture on google, so I hope you´re so kind to explain it for a German native speaker. If the catalyst were broken, why should the check engine lamp react in hot weather conditions but not or only rarely in cold weather conditions? I still hope for corrodated contacts somewhere - which ones could I check out?

    Please still answer a second time even though I will ask for a second advice, as I think that two brains know more than one ;-) Yes, btw. the link you gave me shows a connection which I also had to change once, but it is still okay.

  • hyperalex Sep 07, 2010

    My comment for Kapishtech sould also be good for further advice:

    I Understood, that I don't need to worry about the cooling fan. I have observed that it adapts nicely to the motor heat and that It remains constantly with 90°. With P0057 I'm not so sure about the proposals but I will test it (can you tell me where to find tose wires - perhaps you've got a picture in which I could see the position), because the check engine light also switches off, which means, that it isn't a constant error, is it? P0174 / P0171 has a lean air/fuel ratio so it writes that it's too much air in it. I also thought of a MAF sensor and changed it (didn't put the original one, but a cheaper one, to me it seems that it works nicely), but I also don't think, that it's a problem of fuel supply because the motor makes a nice "round" noise and it doesn't vibrate like with getting too much or too few fuel. P0430 I'm worrying that i might have to change the catalyst. I'm sorry but i couldn't find neither a translation for the "catalyst stator" nor a picture on google, so I hope you´re so kind to explain it for a German native speaker. If the catalyst were broken, why should the check engine lamp react in hot weather conditions but not or only rarely in cold weather conditions? I still hope for corrodated contacts somewhere - which ones could I check out?

  • hyperalex Sep 08, 2010

    Hello „Kapishtech“

    This is a really widespread answer. Now also my father in law came to visit us and as he is an engineer (but not for car-questions) he also gave some ideas. Unfortunately I`m not a car mechanic –otherwise I could have used your great step by step instructions 100%. Now we tried to exclude things you proposed in amore classic way:

    We could not find symptoms of backpressure as the engine works properly even immediately after starting and also on long distances it doesn’t exceed 90° celsius, furthermore the fuel consumption in the last 5000 km was an average of 10.5 liters per 100km with a mixed driving of highway around 80% (mostly 150km/h ) streets along the coast 15% and also dense traffic within towns 5%). Using Pirelly 4 seasons tyres and air condition all the time.

    For the carbon monoxide I went to have the emissions testing done which turned out with the following results:

    Vehicle details: 194000km, 21.12.2001

    Engine temperature: 94°C

    High idle2550 rpm, lambda 1,001 (should be between 0.970 and 1.030)
    CO 0,00%

    Idle 710 rpm and B1 S1 lambda 0.972 (should be between 0,97 and 1.03)
    Idle 710 rpm and B2 S1 lambda 1.012 (should be between 0,97 and 1.03)

    So I passed the test successfully which should mean, that my catalyst eliminates all the CO and so is still working more or less properly but I have no idea if the lambda values are within an optimal or an acceptible range.

    The motor temperature shows, that the thermostat hasn`t stuck open and the lambda values show that the O2 sensors are still working (or at least not totally and permanently dead)

    My engine with its almost 200000km uses 1 liter oil per 10000km (yes, ten thousand km) and worn walve guides we have excluded by holding a piece of paper to see / our hands to feel how the exhaust pipe is blowing- and it was blowing constantly without interruptions and without aspirating which shows, that cylinders are burning properly and the valves don´t remain „open“ (in the sense of „not hermetically closed“)

    So what’s your opinion after all these tests and how would you interprete the values?

    Thanks for all your trouble cause of me!

  • hyperalex Sep 08, 2010

    Hello "MNfisherman", I have been to have the emissions testing done and I got the following results:

    Vehicle details: 194000km, 21.12.2001

    Engine temperature: 94°C

    High idle2550 rpm, lambda 1,001 (should be between 0.970 and 1.030)
    CO 0,00%

    Idle 710 rpm and B1 S1 lambda 0.972 (should be between 0,97 and 1.03)
    Idle 710 rpm and B2 S1 lambda 1.012 (should be between 0,97 and 1.03)

    So I passed the test successfully which should mean, that catalyst eliminates all the CO and so is still working more or less properly but I have no idea if the lambda values are within an optimal or an acceptible range. Provided with this information do you still think of changing the catalyst? Is there something pointing out a weak point in the exhaust system?

    I also want to thamk you for the really useful link with the error codes which remind me of a further set of codes: With the jaguar x-type you need to keep the computer-button at the left side (where you also use the direction indicator) pressed and then switch on the ignition wut without starting the engine. Having the ignition on you still need to wait pressing the button another five seconds and so enter in a test-enwironment. There all kinds of functions are monitored-perhaps also something which could indicate malfunctions concerning my problem? I unfortunately couldn`t find out what all the abbreviations mean - so "bat 12.1" is for battery 12.1 Volts and so but others like cf 0 cf1 and so on are hieroglyphes to me. Have you got any idea where to find further information about these messages?)

    What I thought already is that the catalyst has to be regenerated and for this reason needs a richer air fuel mixture probably this has to do with the fault that the mixture is too "weak"?

    Thanks for your help!

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Http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=Fault_code_library_obd2_eobd

That is a link to all the fault codes and what they mean. According to the codes they all are a type of circuit fault. These usually have all the circuits connected which one thing can set off all the codes at one. I do believe your cat should be changed.

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 08, 2010

    Have your o2 sensors tested and egr. That is about all that's left of the exhaust system. o2 sensors tell the computer if the engine is running to rich or too lean and then the computer adjusts the fuel/air ratio

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What does all the error codes mean.I will mention that first:---
P0480:--- Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction .
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) - P0480 LOW SPEED COOLING FAN RELAY CIRCUIT FAULT (WITH A/C)
The cooling fan relay coil receives the Ignition Voltage directly.The relay is regulated by grounding the control circuit via the driver or the internal switch, a process which is entirely controlled by the ECM.The driver has been specially devised to supply the ground for the component being controlled.The ECM monitors the fault line which every driver has.When the ECM is commanding a component ON, the voltage of the control circuit needs to be low (near 0volts).When the ECM is commanding the control circuit to a component OFF, the voltage potential of the circuit should be high (near battery voltage).The fault line status will automatically change causing the DTC to set if the fault detection circuit senses a voltage different from what is expected.In order to control the high current flow to the cooling fan motors assistance of the relay is sought.This enables the ECM driver to handle the relatively low current used by the relay.
P0057 Definition: O2 Sensor heater circuit low- 22
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Open fuse
3. Failed HO2S 11 (i.e., bad O2 Sensor).

First check fuses #38 and #42 30 amp in the front power box. If they are good then make sure you have power on both heater wires on the downstream sensors which are the ones with the black connectors. You should have battery power on the white/green and the white/red wires. If so then you can check the heater resistance on the white/red and the blue/yellow and the white/green and the blue wire. Do this with the ignition off.--------
P0174 & p071(Possibles List)
Definition:
- Fuel trim bank two condition
Explanation:
The ECM has detected a rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio condition on engine bank two.
Probable Cause:
1. If bank one and two are set together suspect a fuel pressure condition or MAF sensor fault.
2. Failed HO2S21
3. Ignition misfire condition
4. Fuel injector problem
5. Engine mechanical condition

Click this link for more help:--
http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=30315----------------
Code P0430 means: Catalyst Efficiency Below Normal (Bank 2).So the code p0430 Is for faulty catalyst stator.The other mentioned codes are related to other possibilities so check that.
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

  • raj somaiya
    raj somaiya Sep 07, 2010

    The exact part name is catalytic converter. The best way(only way) to properly diagnose the cat is with data
    monitoring of the pre and post cat o2 sensors. It would be difficult for a bad
    o2 sensor to mimic the exact requirements to flag the p0430 code but watching
    the o2 sensor reactions in a live data-stream will tell you if the cat is the
    problem or not.



    bank 2
    catalytic converter it would be on the opposite side as cylinder #1.




    In order to
    finger the catalytic converter if its the problem -get a 5 gas analysis test
    -for the costs it varies with locations Parts/Labor .The catalytic converter is our main line of
    defense against air pollution, so it's important to make sure it is functioning
    efficiently and passing exhaust without creating undue restrictions that might
    reduce performance, fuel economy or emissions. That's one of the reasons for
    periodic vehicle emissions testing. If the converter isn't working, you won't
    pass the test.

    If the your converter is plugged, it will create a restriction in your exhaust
    system. The buildup of backpressure will cause a drastic drop in engine
    performance and fuel economy, and may even cause the engine to sta
    ll after it starts if the blockage is severe. The
    easiest test for converter plugging is done with a vacuum gauge. Connect the
    gauge to a source of intake vacuum on the intake manifold, carburetor or
    throttle body. Note the reading at idle, then raise and hold engine speed at
    2,500. The needle will drop when you first open the throttle, but should then
    rise and stabilize. If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be
    backing up in the exhaust system.

    You can also try to measure backpressure directly. If your engine has air
    injection, disconnect the check valve from the distribution manifold, and
    connect a low pressure gauge. Or, remove the oxygen sensor and take your
    reading at its hole in the manifold or headpipe. Refer to the backpressure
    specs for the application. Generally speaking, more than 1.25 psi of backpressure
    at idle, or more than 3 psi at 2,000 rpm tells you there's an exhaust
    restriction.

    If there appears to be an exhaust restriction, disconnect the exhaust pipe just
    aft of the converter to relieve pressure and recheck the readings. CAUTION: The
    pipes will be hot so wait awhile for things to cool down. If vacuum goes up
    and/or backpressure drops, the problem isn't not a plugged converter but a
    plugged muffler or collapsed pipe. If there's little or no change in readings,
    the converter is plugged.

    Just because a converter is passing gas doesn't mean it is okay. If the
    catalyst inside is contaminated or worn out, high carbon monoxide (CO) and/or
    hydrocarbon (HC) readings will be present in the exhaust. If you have access to
    a high temperature digital pyrometer (or an oven thermometer will do), check
    the converter's temperature fore and aft. A good converter will usually run 100
    degrees F hotter at its outlet than its inlet. Little or no temperature change
    would indicate low efficiency, or a problem with the converter's air supply.
    Converters need supplemental oxygen in the exhaust to reburn pollutants, so if
    the air injection system or aspirator valve isn't doing its job the converter
    can't do its job either.

    Check the air injection pump, belt and check valve. If you suspect that the
    check valve is allowing exhaust to flow backwards, remove it and blow through
    both ends. It should let air pass in one direction, but not in the other.
    Examine the air injection manifold, too, because it tends to rust out and leak
    air. Check the diverter valve to make sure it is working correctly, too. It
    should be routing air to the converter when the engine is at normal
    temperature.

    On engines with aspirator valves instead of air pumps, you should hear and/or
    feel the fluttering of the internal flapper as the engine is idling.

    Causes Of
    Converter Failures

    Fouling, clogging, melt-down and breakage of the ceramic substrate inside a
    converter are common conditions that can cause problems. Plugging is usually
    the end result of a melt-down, which occurs because the converter gets too hot.
    This happens because the engine is dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. The
    excess fuel lights off inside the converter and sends temperatures soaring. If
    it gets hot enough, the ceramic substrate that carries the catalyst
    melts.

    The unburned fuel may be getting into the exhaust because of a bad spark plug
    or valve, but an overly rich air/fuel mixture is another possibility. In older
    carbureted engines, a heavy or misadjusted carburetor float may be the
    underlying cause. But on newer engines with "feedback" carburetion or
    electronic fuel injection, the engine may not be going into "closed
    loop" (the normal mode where the computer regulates the air/fuel mixture
    to minimize emissions).

    A bad oxygen sensor or coolant sensor may be giving the computer bogus
    information. A sluggish or dead O2 sensor will make the computer think the
    exhaust is running lean, so the computer will try to compensate by making the
    fuel mixture rich. A coolant sensor that always indicates a cold engine will
    also keep the system in open loop, which means a steady diet of excess fuel.
    But it might not be the sensor's fault. A thermostat that's stuck open or is
    too cold for the application can prevent the engine from reaching its normal
    operating temperature. So if your converter has failed and needs to be
    replaced, the engine should be diagnosed for any underlying problems before the
    new converter is installed.

    Another cause of converter clogging and contamination is excessive oil
    consumption. Worn valve guides or seals can allow oil to be sucked into the
    engine's combustion chambers. The same goes for worn or damaged rings or
    cylinders. Oil can form a great deal of carbon, and metals present in the oil
    can contaminate the catalyst. A compression check or leak-down test will tell
    you if the rings are leaking, while a fluttering vacuum gauge needle will help
    you identify worn valve guides.



    To see how the catalyst looks please check this
    link:--



    http://www.racepages.com/catalytic/x_typ...



    To see where its fitted on the car please
    click this link:--



    http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9G...


    Thanks for keeping updated with your query.

  • raj somaiya
    raj somaiya Sep 09, 2010

    Yes changing the catalyst should help.as per the results mentioned.

    Thanks for keeping updated with your query.

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