Question about 2000 Dodge Durango

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Dodge Durango 2000,lost 4 wheel drive linkage about a month ago, now hearing poping, banging under vehicle, checked tie rod ends, drive shaft, brakes, nothing lose to make noise, was told was ok to drive without 4wheel drive linkage till could aford to get, 4wheel light not on in dash, any ideas?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

justuscc
  • 360 Answers

SOURCE: replacing outer tie rod on a 2000 dodge neon

put the tie rod back in and thread the nut on. then you turn the inner tierod with a pipe wrench or a big pair of channel locks. you can spray the threads with pb blaster or wd-40. also if ya have a propane torch this helps loosen the threads. apply heat to the outer tierod do not heat the inner. good luck jimmy

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Inner tie rod 99 durango replacement

make sure if you do it youself you count how many turns it takes for your tierods to come off. it it makes it easy for me that way. also make sure you get a front end aligiment when your done

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

  • 114 Answers

SOURCE: Tie rod ends on 05 dodge durango

Hi there.... Tie rod ends are not hard to do at all. Take the tire off, you'll see the tie rod end. Take the nut off the end on the spindle side and lossen the nut at the other end. With a hammer, hit the section that the spindle end is inserted to until it pops out. Then unscrew the tie rod. Make sure you count how many turns it takes to remove the old tie rod end..... screw the new one in the same amount of turns that it took the old one to come off. this way you will have it close to what the old one was at. You will have to get a wheel alignment afterwards in order to have it all set up. Hope this helps you out.

Phil

Posted on Feb 24, 2009

  • 2002 Answers

SOURCE: repair steering linkage

You'll have to rent or borrow a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller. There is more than one size of pickle fork so specify for tie rod ends. You can buy them too, about $100 for the pair and they are not vehicle specific.
Jack and block up your front end so the wheels are clear. Take the nut off the tie rod end and wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod and the drag link, rap with a hammer until it separates. Loosen the bolt on the collar and unscrew the tie rod end. Count the turns when you remove it and screw the new one in the same number of turns.Fit it into the drag link and tighten the collar and the new nut.
Take the nut off the idler arm and use the pickle fork to separate it from the drag link. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame. The new one goes on in the reverse.
You'll probably need an adjustable wrench to remove the nut from the pitman arm,it's bigger than most wrench sets. Separate it from the drag link first. Slide the puller on and tighten it up. Once it starts to turn hard, give the bolt on the puller a rap with the hammer and tighten some more. Repeat until the arm comes off. Slip the new one on and tighten.
Don't be shy when you tighten these parts because if there is play, the holes in the drag link will oval out and you will have to replace it too. Don,t use a pickle fork on the pitman arm or you will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the steering box. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

johnjohn2
  • 5763 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace inner tie rod on 99 dodge durango

disconnect from outter tie rod. unclamp boot slide forward. unscrew inner tierod off rack. good luck.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

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I have 04 vue. Fwd 3.5. How do i change out right side cv axle? I can't free end that goes into carriage bearing?


remove lower ball joint and remove axle nut in the center of spindle. then move the spindle out of the way separating the axle from the spindle.

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What's the outer tie rod end torque specs for 2000 Dodge Dakota sport ?


this was copied off of the following link. should be same torque requirments-
this is off a 2004 manual,which should be real close if not exact

INSTALLATION
1. Align reference marks and install pitman arm.
2. Install the lock washer and retaining nut on the pitman
shaft and tighten nut to 251 N·m (185 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the drag link (1) to the pitman arm (5). Install
the nut (4) and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.) Then
an additional 90°.
4. Remove the supports and lower the vehicle to the
surface. Center steering wheel> and adjust toe,
(Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/WHEEL ALIGNMENT -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
5. After adjustment tighten tie rod adjustment sleeve
clamp> bolts to 61 N·m (45 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Position the clamp on the sleeve so retaining
bolt is located on the bottom side of the
sleeve

got it from here -

Tie rod end torque spec DodgeTalk Dodge Car Forums Dodge Truck Forums and...

Feb 23, 2015 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Banging noise when you drive


This is a hard problem to describe, I know, and I will toss out a few possibilities. If the noise occurs when the car is accelerating, it can be motor mounts, or carriage mounts on front-wheel drive vehicles. Transmissions can bang into gear. Drive shaft u-joints can bang before they fail. C-V joints in front wheel or 4 wheel drive units can bang when worn out.

The exhaust system can break loose and bang on the frame. Brake calipers can rock in their mounts and transmit sound. Tie-rod ends can make a knocking noise on every bump you hit. There were recalls on gas tank straps for some Ford made units, so a loose gas tank can bang.

Dec 30, 2013 | Mercury Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2000 dodge dakota 4 wheel drive . recently i have noticed the shaft coming out of the front axle on the drivers side has play and making the tire wear weird . i noticed the seal is shot on that...


i am not sure just what shaft you are talking about,i think you mean the outer tie rod end and the seal you mean is the dust boot on the tie rod end, when you buy a new end it will come with a new boot. but if you mean the front axle shaft it should not cause the tire to wear funny it might cause some noise or a shake but not a wear problem.

Mar 27, 2011 | Dodge Dakota Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Torque specs. for replacing tie rod end on dodge stratus, replacement rod came with slotted nut and cotter pin


Hello
Welcome!
The torque spec for the tyrod ends are 45 foot pounds.

• Unlock the steering wheel before jacking up the vehicle. This allows the Steering linkage to be moved for the best possible access to the ends' fasteners by grabbing one of the axle hubs
• Secure the vehicle on jackstands before removing the wheels.
• Buy name-brand tie-rod ends. Saving a few dollars on cheaply made parts isn't worth the risk.
• Mark the tie-rod ends' positions on their threaded adjusters before removing the old ends. This way, the new ends can be screwed in to approximately the same position as the old ones to get wheel allimint in the ballpark.
• Have the vehicle professionally aligned afterward, especially if the steering wheel isn't centered or the vehicle pulls one direction when attempting to drive straight.

Signs your haveing probloms with the tyrod ends

• Front-end shimmy, shake or vibration.
• Abnormal front-end noise.
• Hard steering.
•steering wheel doesn't return to center properly.
• Vehicle wanders.
• Steering feels unstable, loose or has excessive play.

Jul 16, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Stuck in 4 wheels


check to see if you linkage coming from your selector lever to your transfer case is off. i also have a 2000 durango and the little gromlets (rubber bushings) that hold the linkage bar in place were warnout and i had to replace them. mine wouldn't go into 4 low because the gromlets were worn and alowed to much slack.

Feb 03, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Need to find linkage for the hand shifter to the 4 wheel drive gear box


linkage located on driverside of trany bout 3/4 way to top and has a rod bout 6 inches long to shift transfur case held in by rubber washer

Oct 20, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

Remove tranny from 2000 Dodge Intrepid what do I have to do?


Its a lot of work. but if your rdy here we go. if u are not doing this on a hoist be prepared for alot of grunting cursing and swearing.
1. raise the vehicle and put it on jack stands high enough so u can work under it safely
2. disconnect the positive battery cable
3. make sure the steering is loose. What i mean by this is: have the key in the ignition in the acc. position. this allows u to turn the wheels with less effort.
4. remove the front tires
5. remove the center caps from the axle hub.
6. next remove the retaining nutz for the axle shafts.
7. remove both outer-tie rod nuts.
8. using a small sledge hammer hit the mounting point of where the tie rods insert into the hub. not the tie rods them selves
9. next with the ties rods out turn the hub assembly outwards towards your self and remove the axle shaft end from the hub.
10. remove the axle shafts.
point of note: on some axle shaft assemblies there is a retaining clip on the shafts them selves. u must make sure this clip comes out with the shaft when u remove it. if it does not and drops in the transmission. u will be taking the trans. apart to get it out.. not fun
11. next remove the transmission to frame connector.
12. there will be 6-9 13mm bolts that connect the transmission to the engine. remove these
13 . do not separate the transmission yet.
14. disconnect the linkages for the shifter that are to the right when u face the transmission.
15 disconnect the sensor assembly from the transmission. its 3-7 wires that plug into the transmission.
16 at this point look around while u are under there to see if there is anything will will hinder the removal of the transmission. exhaust pipes. oil filter starter, transmission lines.
17 next with a prybar , seperate the transmission gently and rock it side to side to aid the removal.
18 remove the transmission from the can not stress this enough. be carefull. heavy parts can fall and break fingers and hurt you. so take your time.
19. with the transmission out remover and replace the torque converter. when replacing a trasmission always change the coverter with it. they can wear out as well and can cause premature failure of the transmission
20. to assemble, reverse the order.
21 when the transmission is in the car. fill the fluids and check for any leaks.
22 start the vehicle and check again for any abnormal sounds, leaks etc. repair as neccessary.



Apr 14, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Grease fittings front end


certain durangos, have the fittings on the ends of the tie rods, and the ball joints, but it is different for 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive models... if you do not see the grease fittings on the ball joints, or the tie rods that means they can not be greased... check the boots on them tho, if there is any tearing, or the boot is missing or broken in any way, that part will need to be taken out and replaced...if the suspension part has no grease fitting in place, this indicates it is sealed and doesn't require periodic lubrication

Mar 14, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Durango

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