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take off wheel remove upper balljoint nut seperate ball joint from spindle remove big nut from center of wheel remove six bolts to inner axle and carefully knock axle out of hub repeat in reverse for install
Well you can measure from the lower front balljoint with a tape measure all the way back to the middle of the rear axle housing on the same side,then do that for the other side your measurements probabley won't be the exact same on both sides but should be within about a 1/4 of and inch.Then you can do the cross measure way by taking the tape measure and going from the left front lower balljoint to the right rear axle housing then do the same for the other side.This should also be within about 1/4 of an inch.
Remove both front tires and bake assmy. Remove the large nut on the axle, center of bearing. remove the lower balljoint nut and remove balljoint from steering knuckle, A large steel bar will help. Turn knucke to remove the shaft form bearing. Place a prybar behind the inside knucke on the axle and hit with a hammer on the bar to remove the axle. The same for other side and to reinstall is to reverse the steps.
Jack up the car as normal remove the wheel put another jack under the wishbone jack it up until you relieve the tension on the balljoint. If the nut on the end of the balljoint is looking up remove the balljoint screws and nut if the nut is looking down then you may have to remove the front drive in order get the balljoint out.
i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.
STOP.you will not be able to complete this repair.when changing balljoints on a s/d ford you need a special tool to install the new hub seals on the axles and then install axle with this tool as well.if the hub seals are damaged the hubs will not hold vaccuum and the auto 4x4 will not work.
It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly
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