Question about 2000 Mazda MPV
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: mazda mpv problem
I agree. I have had this problem twice and it has been a coil. This model has individual coil packs for each cylinder, so unless you have the tools to find out which cylinder is not getting full spark, have a mechanic do it.
Side note...I recommend inducting about 5 oz. of Sea-Foam through a vacuum line every 20,00 miles or so. The rest of the can goes into the fuel tank to clean the injectors. It has helped smooth out a rough idle.
And a can of Restore with each oil change after 100,000 miles will take care of hydraulic lifter chatter.
Posted on May 24, 2008
The reason is the water pump is driven off the timing belt, extra parts and allot more labor. No the eng does not have to be removed, labor time around 4 hours, parts about, about $125 US for parts, if it is a dealer add $75 US
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
hello there, there is a way to check if the alternator works, just start the engine and run it at idle for a minute or so just to get the engine warmed up. while the engine is running, try to remove the positive terminal cable from the battery (note: no lights, radio, or any accessories operating). the alternator should be sufficiently providing power to the engine. if it dies down the charging might be weak. another way is purchase a digital multimeter and setting it to dc voltage testing. put the tester prongs on the correct terminal( positive to red positive and negative to black negative) test the voltage prior to starting. usually it shall read 12. 3 or a tad higher. remove the tester prongs from the battery terminal and start the engine. then place it back on. the reading shall read 14V plus without any load. sometimes it might read 15V w/c is usually over for certain cars. then turn on all accessories: headlights, aircondition/heater and etc. if the reading on the tester indicates 12.8V and above 13V your charging system is ok.(all this test is on engine idle)
For the battery, my experience is that 2 years of battery duty is quite good already. unfortunately, during these span of duty the battery might give a 12V reading but its strength is not enough to sustain the load. the voltage of the battery is the physical attribute so to speak and ampere is the power or strength of the battery.
for your accessories that died, I think something tripped when you jump started it. but the accessories are easily traceble. I think what's important is keeping the engine in tip top condition and won't let you down during hard times.
hope some of this helps you.
Posted on May 04, 2009
I replaced this sensor about 6 months ago. (If this is the sensor that is located near the firewall on the exhaust manifold under the ignition coil.) The only way to easily replace it, is to remove the MAF and air filter assy. then remove the intake plenum, remove the ignition coil, and then you'll have access to the sensor. You'll need a sensor removal socket. If the socket slips around the hex of the sensor, then you'll need to use a regular deepwell socket and cut the cable from the top of the sensor, or use a combination wrench that will fit it.
The most difficult part of removing the intake plenum is getting the nut loose from the EGR valve. DO NOT just remove the two bolts holding it to the intake plenum. It will not line up correctly during re-assembly and may not seal tightly either.
This took about a Saturday to do. You'll need new plenum gaskets to replace the old. While your at it remove the throttle body and clean the carbon from the ports that lead to the EGR valve and replace that gasket as well. The gaskets will run about $30.
Posted on May 04, 2009
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