Question about 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab
Hi. Common problem with the Navistar diesels (the engine in the Ford diesel trucks) is that the CPS or crank position sensor goes out due to vibration. If the computer isn't getting a signal from the CPS, it won't allow any fuel to flow from the injection pump. You may want to check also the fuel pump. You may want to consider also the batery voltage. If it gets below 12.4V. will not open the pump valve to pump fuel.
All the best!
Posted on Sep 07, 2010
Sounds like a bad glow plug relay to me (only if this recently started
happening) butit also sounds like you fried your starter motor too-the
processor needs 9volts to keep "alive" to work the IDM and all the
sensors-and that is along with the heavy draw of the glow plugs(if
working) and the starter turning the motor over-so a strong starter and
heavy duty batteries are a must in cold weather-after you replace your
burnt up starter try plugging the block heater in, if it starts easy
then i would guess a malfunctioning glow plug relay.
CA trucks will have a glow control module, and nonwill have a glow relay.. If the glow system isn't working it can/will make for a very hard starting engine, more so in the colder temps.. If the block heater is plugged in, does it start normally in the AM's??
The glow relay (if equipped) sits just to the right (passenger side) of the engine dress cover.. Looks like a starter solenoid, two large lugs, and two small.. If module equipped, it's in the same area, mounts to bracket and is a aluminum looking box with cooling fins.. The UVC harness/s plug right into the valve cover gaskets one per side and the harness's are wrapped in red tape.. The later 7.3's didn't have as much problem burning the UVC connections, but not unheard of..If the connectors are bulged or show signs of excessive heat on the 'outter most' pins (outter 2 pins on each side of each connector) than the connection/s may be failed.
If you crank for over extended amounts of time, you can overheat the starter and damage it.. Could be as simple as the stater relay, or starter solenoid as well.. You might try jumping the solenoid on the starter direct to see if the starter engages/cranks.
The 7.3 needs to have 'minimum' of 100RPM to start.. If the batts aren't hot enough, or are at the end of their service life, coupled withvolt/amps drop with glow cycling ect. and cranking speed drops below spec, it won't start. Each should be uncabled and load tested individually. Even jump assist attempts with a donor with lower than needed available cranking amps, and less than quality cables, make for a hard/no start.
Posted on Sep 06, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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