Question about 1978 Chevrolet Caprice

1 Answer

I cannot find the part number for the steering column upper bearing. I also cannot seem to be able to get the outer race out from the housing. What type of puller can fit in there or is there another way to get it out. Also what is the part number for the bearing. This is in a 1978 Chevy Caprice Steering column

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 4,336 Answers

Go to the dealer, and they have an exploeded parts diagram with the part shown.the bearing will be a dealer item.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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1 Answer

Steering column top bearing replacment


double posted, with 1999 added.
the FSM says dont reuse steering wheel bolts.. (unique)
here is an online quote to get to the combo switch
quote;
Removal & Installation
  1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. WARNING(bags can kill, my comment)
    Wait two minutes for the airbag system reserve capacitor to discharge before performing further diagnosis or service.
  2. From below the steering column, remove the three screws that secure the lower steering column shroud to the multi-function switch mounting housing.
  3. Using hand pressure, push gently inward on both sides of the upper shroud near the parting line between the upper and lower shrouds to release the snap features that secure the two shroud halves together.
  4. Remove both the upper and lower shrouds from the steering column.
  5. Remove the Steering Control Module (SCM) from the steering column.
  6. Remove the two screws that secure the left multifunction switch to the SCM .
  7. Disengage the two retaining tabs , next to the screw mounts that secure the left multi-function switch to the SCM.
  8. Disconnect the left multi-function switch from the SCM.
To install:
  1. Position the left multi-function switch onto position on the Steering Control Module (SCM) .
  2. Engage the two retaining tabs, next to the screw mounts that secure the left multi-function switch and firmly snap into place.
  3. Install the two screws that secure the left multifunction switch to the SCM. Tighten the screws to 22 inch lbs. (2.5 Nm).
  4. Position the lower steering column shroud to the underside of the steering column.
  5. Install the three screws that secure the lower steering column shroud to the multi-function switch mounting housing. Tighten the screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
  6. Position the upper column shroud over the steering column with the hazard warning switch button inserted through the hole in the upper shroud.
  7. Align the snap features on the upper and lower shrouds and apply hand pressure to snap them together.
  8. Reconnect the battery negative cable.

Dec 22, 2013 | 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

Steering column feels loose on 1999 grand marquis


Here's a company that has a description of how to rebuildthe upper portion of a Ford steering column (for a small fee). They are broken down into step by stepdetailed instructions with pictures. Although the example is for a 2000 Mustang,the column is identical to yours (tilt and non tilt use the same housing) http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/steering-column-repair-how-to-instructions/ford/upper-housing-bearings%20replacement-instructions.phpI hope these instructionshelp you.

Aug 21, 2011 | 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis

2 Answers

Okay, my boyfriend owns a 2000 ford f-250 super duty and your prolly wondering as to why im asking about this instead of him ... well im more mechanically inclined then he is lol funny huh... okay heres...


It sounds like the shift tube bushings are worn out. There are usually 2 u shaped clamps that have nylon bushings that hold the shift tube to the steering clumn. If loose, that throws off the shift position, could be btween 2 gears at once, and throws off the park - neutral safety switch. Fix that first.


snorkelbobby_53.gif Item Part Number Description 1 14A664 Air Bag Sliding Contact 2 3530 Upper Steering Column Shroud 3 3518 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve 4 3517 Steering Column Bearing 5 3511 Steering Column Lock Cylinder Housing 6 13K359 Multi-Function Switch 7 N808114 Pin 8 N805857 Steering Column Release Lever Pin 9 3D544 Steering Column Release Lever 10 3F609 Tilt Wheel Handle and Shank 11 7361 Column Shift Selector Lever Plunger 12 7210 Gearshift Lever 13 3D657 Steering Column Shaft 14 7B071 Transmission Control Selector Lever Plunger Spring 15 7G357 Gearshift Lever Pin 16 7212 Transmission Column Shift Selector Tube 17 N806582 Tilt Column Pivot Screw 18 7C464 Transmission Control Selector Lever Spring Clip 19 7E400 Gearshift Tube Bushing Clamp 20 - Spacer (Fixed Column) 21 3E729 Steering Shaft (Fixed Column) 22 3F527 Lever Assembly (Manual Transmission) 23 3F530 Pin (Manual Transmission) 24 3F752 Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid 25 7335 Gearshift Lever Socket Bushing 26 7A216 Transmission Shift Selector Position Insert 27 7302 Transmission Selector Lever Arm and Support 28 7E395 Shift Cable and Bracket 29 7210 Gearshift Lever 30 3E691 Steering Column Shift Lock Pawl 31 7W441 Gearshift Lever Pin 32 3676 Steering Column Instrument Panel Bracket 33 3D681 Steering Column Lower Bearing Retainer 34 3517 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve 35 3L539 Steering Column Bearing Tolerance Ring 36 3C674 Steering Column Lower Bearing Spring 37 3C131 Sensor Ring 38 3518 Steering Column Bearing 39 N806423-S56 Steering Column Retaining Nuts 40 14A163 Wiring Harness Retainer 41 3F723 Steering Actuator Housing 42 3B663 Steering Column Lock Lever Pin 43 11572 Ignition Switch 44 3D655 Steering Column Position Spring 45 3D653 Steering Column Locking Lever (LH) 46 3B768 Steering Column Position Lock Spring 47 3B662 Steering Column Locking Lever (RH) 48 3E715 Lower Steering Column Lock Actuator 49 3E696 Steering Column Lock Spring 50 3E691 Steering Column Shaft Lock Pawl 51 3E723 Upper Steering Column Lock Lever Actuator 52 3E695 Steering Column Lock Cam 53 3D656 Steering Column Tilt Flange Bumper 54 14A163 Wiring Harness Retainer 55 391727-S304 Shroud Screws 56 3530 Steering Column Shroud 57 3E717 Steering Column Lock Gear 58 3E700 Steering Column Lock Housing Bearing 59 3C610 Bearing Retainer 60 11582 Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder 61 3L539 Steering Column Tolerance Ring 62 3520 Steering Column Upper Bearing Spring 63 3C610 Snap Ring

Apr 05, 2011 | 2000 Ford F250 Super Duty Crew Cabs

1 Answer

Procedure for replacing rear whl brgs on a 2003 escape awd


4-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake shoes
    • Rear halfshaft nut and loosen the halfshaft from the hub
    • Wheel hub and place it in a vise
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Antilock Brake System (ABS) sensor bracket and move the sensor aside, if equipped
    • Parking brake cable from the steering knuckle
    • Brake line from the wheel cylinder and support the knuckle
    • Lower shock absorber nut
    • Lower ball joint by holding the ball joint stud
    • Upper ball joint
    • Coil spring while noting the location of the insulator
    • Steering knuckle cam
    • Steering knuckle
    • Snapring and press out the outer wheel bearing race from the knuckle
      06017-esca-g92.gif

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge

To install:

  1. Install or connect the following:
    • New wheel bearing into the steering knuckle
    • Snapring to the knuckle
    • Wheel hub
    • Steering knuckle cam and hand tighten the bolt
    • Coil spring
    • Shock absorber lower nut. Torque the nut to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) for 2002-04 models; 129 ft. lbs. (175 Nm).
    • Upper ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm).
    • Lower ball joint. Torque the nut to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Align the steering knuckle cam and torque the bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
    • Brake line to the wheel cylinder. Torque the brake line bracket bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) and the brake line fastener to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).
    • Parking brake cable to the backing plate. Torque the bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    • ABS sensor bracket. Torque the bolt to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm), if equipped
    • Halfshaft nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
    • Brake shoes
    • Rear wheel
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Fill and bleed the brake system.
  3. Check and adjust the wheel alignment as needed.

2-Wheel Drive
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Rear wheel
    • Rear brake drum
    • Wheel hub nut
    • Wheel hub
    • Inner wheel bearing race from the hub
    • Snapring
    • Wheel bearing outer race from the knuckle
      06017-esca-g92.gif

      Rear hub and bearing
      Click to Enlarge 06017-esca-g93.gif

      Rear hub removal
      06017-esca-g94.gif

      Inner wheel bearing removal-rear hub/bearing
      06017-esca-g95.gif

      Rear wheel bearing removal-2wd
      06017-esca-g96.gif

      Rear wheel bearing removal-4wd

To install:
Install or connect the following:

  • Wheel bearing in to the knuckle
  • Snapring
  • Wheel hub into the wheel bearing
  • Wheel hub nut. Torque the nut to 214 ft. lbs. (290 Nm).
  • Brake drum
  • Rear wheel
  • Negative battery cable
    06017-esca-g97.gif

    Rear wheel bearing installation
    06017-esca-g98.gif
    hope this helps if so send testimonial comment or even any other questions you have

Jan 16, 2011 | Ford Escape Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove key unit from steering column 1986 F150 Ford


COUTESY OF EXPERT "C17HYDRO"
With Key
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.
  3. Remove the trim shroud halves.
  4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.
  5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.
  6. Place a 1/8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.
  7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.
  8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

This section is for a NON-TILT with no key or non-functioning cylinder:
Fixed Columns
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. Remove the steering wheel.
  3. Remove the turn signal lever.
  4. Remove the column trim shrouds.
  5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.
  6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.
  7. Remove the turn signal switch.
  8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.
  9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.
  10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.
  11. Upon reassembly, the following parts must be replaced with new parts:
    • Flange
    • Lock cylinder assembly
    • Steering column lock gear
    • Steering column lock bearing
    • Steering column upper bearing retainer
    • Lock actuator assembly
  1. Assembly is a reversal of the disassembly procedure. It is best to install a new upper bearing. Check that the vehicle starts only in PARK and NEUTRAL.

This section is for TILT and no key or non-functioning cylinder:

Tilt Columns
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. Remove the steering column shrouds.
  3. Using masking tape, tape the gap between the steering wheel hub and the cover casting. Cover the entire circumference of the casting. Cover the seat and floor area with a drop-cloth.
  4. Pull out the hazard switch and tape it in a downward position.
  5. The lock cylinder retaining pin is located on the outside of the steering column cover casting adjacent to the hazard flasher button.
  6. Tilt the steering column to the full up position and prepunch the lock cylinder retaining pin with a sharp punch.
  7. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, mounted in a right angle drive drill adapter, drill out the retaining pin, going no deeper than 1/2 in. (12.7mm).
  8. Tilt the column to the full down position. Place a chisel at the base of the ignition lock cylinder cap and using a hammer break away the cap from the lock cylinder.
  9. Using a 3/8 in. drill bit, drill down the center of the ignition lock cylinder key slot about 13/4 in. (44mm), until the lock cylinder breaks loose from the steering column cover casting.
  10. Remove the lock cylinder and the drill shavings.
  11. Remove the steering wheel.
  12. Remove the turn signal lever.
  13. Remove the turn signal switch attaching screws.
  14. Remove the key buzzer attaching screw.
  15. Remove the turn signal switch up and over the end of the column, but don't disconnect the wiring.
  16. Remove the 4 attaching screws from the cover casting and lift the casting over the end of the steering shaft, allowing the turn signal switch to pass through the casting. The removal of the casting cover will expose the upper actuator. Remove the upper actuator.
  17. Remove the drive gear, snapring and washer from the cover casting along with the upper actuator.
  18. Clean all components and replace any that appear damaged or worn.
  19. Installation is the reverse of removal. Check for proper operation.

Nov 23, 2009 | 1986 Ford F150 SuperCab

1 Answer

How do i replace front wheel bearings on a 1991 subaru lyale 4wd wagon ?


  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, and secure in a soft-jawed vise.
  2. Drive out the hub from the steering knuckle. If the inner bearing race remains in the hub, press it out.

    NOTE Be careful not to scratch the polished area of the hub.

  3. Remove the rotor shield.
  4. Remove the inner and outer seals.
  5. Remove the snapring from the steering knuckle.
  6. Press the inner bearing race to remove the outer bearing.
  7. If equipped with ABS, remove the tone ring.
  8. Press the wheel lugs from the hub.

    NOTE To prevent deforming the hub, do not hammer the lugs out.

To install:
  1. Press new wheel lugs into the hub.
  2. If equipped, clean all foreign material from the hub and tone ring. Install the tone ring.
  3. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the plastic lock from the inner race and press a new, greased bearing into the hub by pressing the outer race.
  5. Install the snapring into its groove.
  6. Press a new outer oil seal until it contacts the bottom of the housing.
  7. Press a new inner oil seal until it contacts the circlip.
  8. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
  9. Install the rotor shield and tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  10. Attach the hub to the steering knuckle.
  11. Press a new bearing into the hub by driving the inner race.
  12. Install the steering knuckle.
f3a705a.gif
Front axle and bearing assembly—Sedan, Coupe, Loyale, XT, Wagon and Brat

0178d6a.gif
Driving out the inner bearing assembly

87e8ff5.gif
Pressing the bearing in

Oct 19, 2009 | 1991 Subaru Loyale

1 Answer

How to replace ignition lock cylinder on 1984 Ford F-150 pickup?


With Key
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.
  3. Remove the trim shroud halves.
  4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.
  5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON.
  6. Place a 1/8 in. wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.
  7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.
  8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

This section is for a NON-TILT with no key or non-functioning cylinder:
Fixed Columns
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. Remove the steering wheel.
  3. Remove the turn signal lever.
  4. Remove the column trim shrouds.
  5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.
  6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.
  7. Remove the turn signal switch.
  8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.
  9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.
  10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.
  11. Upon reassembly, the following parts must be replaced with new parts:
    • Flange
    • Lock cylinder assembly
    • Steering column lock gear
    • Steering column lock bearing
    • Steering column upper bearing retainer
    • Lock actuator assembly
  1. Assembly is a reversal of the disassembly procedure. It is best to install a new upper bearing. Check that the vehicle starts only in PARK and NEUTRAL.

This section is for TILT and no key or non-functioning cylinder:

Tilt Columns
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. Remove the steering column shrouds.
  3. Using masking tape, tape the gap between the steering wheel hub and the cover casting. Cover the entire circumference of the casting. Cover the seat and floor area with a drop-cloth.
  4. Pull out the hazard switch and tape it in a downward position.
  5. The lock cylinder retaining pin is located on the outside of the steering column cover casting adjacent to the hazard flasher button.
  6. Tilt the steering column to the full up position and prepunch the lock cylinder retaining pin with a sharp punch.
  7. Using a 1/8 in. drill bit, mounted in a right angle drive drill adapter, drill out the retaining pin, going no deeper than 1/2 in. (12.7mm).
  8. Tilt the column to the full down position. Place a chisel at the base of the ignition lock cylinder cap and using a hammer break away the cap from the lock cylinder.
  9. Using a 3/8 in. drill bit, drill down the center of the ignition lock cylinder key slot about 13/4 in. (44mm), until the lock cylinder breaks loose from the steering column cover casting.
  10. Remove the lock cylinder and the drill shavings.
  11. Remove the steering wheel.
  12. Remove the turn signal lever.
  13. Remove the turn signal switch attaching screws.
  14. Remove the key buzzer attaching screw.
  15. Remove the turn signal switch up and over the end of the column, but don't disconnect the wiring.
  16. Remove the 4 attaching screws from the cover casting and lift the casting over the end of the steering shaft, allowing the turn signal switch to pass through the casting. The removal of the casting cover will expose the upper actuator. Remove the upper actuator.
  17. Remove the drive gear, snapring and washer from the cover casting along with the upper actuator.
  18. Clean all components and replace any that appear damaged or worn.
  19. Installation is the reverse of removal. Check for proper operation.

Oct 13, 2009 | 1984 Ford F 150

1 Answer

How to remove? Switch continues to spin. Column intact. Do I have to remove the steering wheel or can the switch be pulled out and replaced?


Ignition Lock Cylinder REMOVAL & INSTALLATION With Key
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. On tilt columns, remove the upper extension shroud by unsnapping the shroud from the retaining clip at the 9 o'clock position.
  3. Remove the trim shroud halves.
  4. Unplug the wire connector at the key warning switch.
  5. Place the shift lever in PARK and turn the key to ON .
  6. Place a 1⁄8 in. (3mm) wire pin in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder and depress the retaining pin while pulling out on the cylinder.
  7. When installing the cylinder, turn the lock cylinder to the RUN position and depress the retaining pin, then insert the lock cylinder into its housing in the flange casting. Assure that the cylinder is fully seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the OFF position. This will allow the cylinder retaining pin to extend into the cylinder cast housing hole.
  8. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.
Non-Functioning Cylinder or No Key Available FIXED COLUMNS
  1. Disconnect the battery ground.
  2. Remove the steering wheel.
  3. Remove the turn signal lever.
  4. Remove the column trim shrouds.
  5. Unbolt the steering column and lower it carefully.
  6. Remove the ignition switch and warning buzzer and pin the switch in the LOCK position.
  7. Remove the turn signal switch.
  8. Remove the snapring and T-bolt nuts that retain the flange casting to the column outer tube.
  9. Remove the flange casting, upper shaft bearing, lock cylinder, ignition switch actuator and the actuator rod by pulling the entire assembly over the end of the steering column shaft.
  10. Remove the lock actuator insert, the T-bolts and the automatic transmission indicator insert, or, with manual transmissions, the key release lever.
  11. Upon reassembly, the following parts must be replaced with new parts:
    • Flange
    • Lock cylinder assembly
    • Steering column lock gear
    • Steering column lock bearing
    • Steering column upper bearing retainer
    • Lock actuator assembly
  12. Assembly is a reversal of the disassembly procedure. It is best to install a new upper bearing. Check that the truck starts only in PARK and NEUTRAL.

Jul 13, 2009 | 1989 Ford F 250

1 Answer

Need help replacing front hub


Here's the steps....getting some pics for you....hang on a minute or two.

Front Hub Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Remove steering knuckle.
  2. Using a suitable slap hammer, remove wheel hub assembly.
  3. Using a suitable bearing press, remove outer bearing, oil seal, outer bearing race and preload spacer.
  4. Remove inner oil seal, inner wheel bearing and inner bearing race.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove dust cover (back plate).
To Install:
  1. Using a suitable bearing press, install bearing races in steering knuckle.
  2. Pack the bearings and hub area with lithium grease.
  3. Install inner bearing in steering knuckle.
  4. Lubricate lip of NEW inner seal and press seal into knuckle.
  5. Install preload spacer into bore.
  6. Install outer bearing into bore.
  7. Lubricate lip of NEW outer seal and press seal into knuckle.
  8. Using an appropriate tool, support inner wheel bearing and press wheel hub into knuckle with a force of 2500kg.
  9. Install NEW inner seal.
  10. Install knuckle assembly.

May 13, 2009 | 2004 Kia Rio

1 Answer

Steering hard


Hi,

This is the most common problem with this type of steering column and it becomes loose by using the steering wheel to get in and out of the car. The answer here is general and there will be some slight differences as it pertains to your car.
I have been asked where to get a good blow up drawing of the column and the problem is that even the service manuals don't tell you all you need to know.
You will need to purchase or rent at a parts store a steering wheel puller. A lock plate compression tool and a pivot pin removal tool.

Good luck!

I don't know of a good blow up. Commonly factory service manuals will have you take apart things that are not supposed to come apart. The bearings are most likely not the problem but the 4 yoke bolts are. They commonly come loose by grabbing the steering wheel to get in.
Remove the horn pad (7 mm or 9/32 either will work on the back of the steering wheel. Push downward on cancel cam tower and turn counter clockwise. The horn wire is now disconnected. Remove 13/16 steering wheel nut. Index marks may be hard to see. Take a screwdriver and put on upper shaft and tap. Put adjoining mark on wheel if these factory marks can't be seen. It is for reassembly and so that the steering wheel is put on the way it was taken off. Never use a hammer on the upper shaft to remove steering wheel!Install puller using 2(2) 5/16x 16 x 3 bolts. Draw the wheel off. Install rented lock plate removal tool. Note the position for reassembly. Compress lock plate down and remove snap ring by holding one side with a flat blade screwdriver. Insert an ice pick awl at the ring opening and bring upward. Remove lock plate. Take note for reassembly that lock plate only fits one way om the splines. There is a matching broach (Tooth missing on lock plate and spline missing on shaft. Pull off cancel cam and upper shaft spring. Take a small Phillips and push in on the 4 way flasher and unscrew. Hold together while unscrewing so it does not fall apart on you. Take a Phillips and remove the turn signal screws and the turn signal pivot. Pay attention to how this pivot slides in the groove of the wiper switch.

Here comes the fun part____


Remove the screws from the panel under the steering column.--- The shift bowl is located where you shift the transmission. Below the bowl leading under the dash is the lower shift bowl shroud. On the passenger side of the shift bowl under the dash will be a clip and string. Remove the clip by pulling it off the lower bowl shroud. You are doing this so you don't wreck the PRNDL.
Under the dash remove the (2) 9/16 nuts that hold the steering column bracket on. Remove the (4)1/2" bolts that hold the bracket to the column. Underneath the dash on the passenger side of the steering column will be a plastic sleeve holding the wiring. Pull away from column and the downward. Don't worry about the gray thin shroud. That's just for the cruise wire which when putting back together can be installed in the main black plastic shroud.
Push upward on turn signal wiring from its column bracket. You may no have to disconnect any wiring. Go back to top of steering column. Remove (3) #2 Phillips screws. Make sure keys are not in ignition lock. Take hook tool and grab edge of key buzzer and pull upward. Steel retainer spring will fall out for key buzzer when you remove upper cover. Watch for it. Its about an inch long, doubled up piece of black spring steel. Set to side when you get that far. Next remove the ignition lock cylinder by inserting a screwdriver into the clip at the rear of the lock inside the steering column. Pull lock out. Pull upper cover upward and let hang by wiring. You will find at the tilt lever there is another part to the upper cover. Look for a piece of white plastic with a circular end that slides on the inside of the cover (left side). This is called the high beam actuator. Leave the tilt lever and end cap attached. Tilt the bearing housing to full upward tilt. Insert a Phillips into the square hole in the tilt spring retainer cap. Push down and turn counter clockwise. Grab spring and retainer and remove.
Insert pivot pin tool on passenger side of column. Now, once you have screwed the tool into the pivot pin, do not over tighten. Hold the screw head with 3/8 wrench. Use ½ open end to draw nut down. If it seems like the pin is seized tilt the column up and down a couple of times. Usually there is not a problem, but trust me, you don't want to break the puller off in the pivot pin. Repeat on left side. Hold your foot on the brake. Pull on tilt lever while with tilting in upward position, go a little left and remove housing. The ignition actuator rod will become disconnected with the rack. The rack has a loop on one end and teeth on the other. Set it to the side. Do not let the upper shaft fall downward. It could fall off or the little shaft inside could fall out. You will see (4) inverted torx bolts. Some people will remove one at a time and install locktite. I have never done this and have never had one come back. Its up to you. If you intend to use the steering wheel for getting in and out of the car you may want to use locktite.
Now, you do not need a special socket here. Use a ¼ nut driver with both hands and tighten. Then use a vice grips, wrench, whatever you can to tighten these bolts. They are tight enough when the socket starts to slip. Do not tighten any tighter than this. To install the rack insert a screwdriver into the slot of the geared sector on the left side of the bearing housing. Rotate sector far enough where you can slide the rack in. You need to line up the big tooth in the sector to the big tooth opening in the rack. Once this is done pull the spring towards you either with your fingers or needle nose and insert spring into slot on sector. Take the ignition actuator rod on the left side of the column and pull until dash lights come on. Make sure it is set into the groove. Grab the bearing housing with both hands. As you are getting close to the steering column you need to take the loop from the rack and put it over the end of the ignition actuator rod. The high beam actuator rod that is bent outward goes through the big hole on the left and let it just hang. Once looped around pull on tilt lever and install bearing housing slightly tilting up and down once attached. Insert pivot pin. Insert other pivot pin. Insert bearing race, retainer and spring on upper shaft. Hold the spring downward with one hand and tilt the column up and down with other hand. This helps center the race and it also checks the tilt. Next, take a needle nose and turn lock shaft on right side of bearing housing. Engine should start. Put shaft in lock position. Hold the spring on the upper shaft while tapping on pivot pins till flush. Put in full upper tilt and install tilt spring. Push downward and push cap with screwdriver downward and turn clock wise till seated.
Under dash on driver's side of column you will see high beam switch. The rod fits in the center of this switch. Back at the column to make sure the high beams work, push on the rod. You will hear a clicking. Take the high beam actuator and insert it into the groove in the cover. Make sure circular end is facing towards the lever. You need to slide this actuator all the way forward. When looking down the rounded end should be facing downward towards the floor. You will see where this cover rests on the bearing housing. Hold cover up against housing by the tilt lever. With the other hand insert the upper cover back on the column. As you are doing all this pull on the wiring from under column. Line up lock pin in cover. Take an awl to line up high beam actuator with cover. Cover will lie down on column once lined up. Hold cover downward and pull back towards you the turn signal lever to make sure high beam switch works. Pull wires at bottom of column gently accept for turn signal. Inert three # 50 torx. Insert ignition lock cylinder and retaining screw. Take awl and push button up from lock cylinder from key buzzer hole. Insert key buzzer spring to key buzzer. Squeeze and insert into hole and push down. Install turn signal switch and pull wires at bottom of column gently where turn signal switch lines up. Insert three screws. Line up ball from turn signal pivot into wiper switch groove, line up with t/s hole and insert screw. This screw has a wide head.
Install 4 way flasher. Install cancel cam as you marked it for disassembly. Install lock plate. Wheel has to be lined up with the index marks. Install. Insert horn wire into cancel cam tower and press down on cap and turn clockwise. Install horn pad. Under dash install plastic wiring shroud. Reinstall t/s connector on column. Install bracket. Attach steering column to dash. Hold the brake. Put trans in neutral. Pull on string and install clip so PRNDL says neutral. Put trans in PARK. Start engine. Check PRNDL when putting in drive. You may have to adjust clip's position to get this lined up. Install lower dash.


Jun 18, 2008 | 1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic

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