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How to bleed clutch... where is the nipple? - Voyager Chrysler Cars & Trucks

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Depending on the year make and model the bleeder screw should be next to trany,

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Trying to bleed clutch on 92 ford f150. Have done gravity bleed and everything eles. Get relly good peddel until i start truck and then the peddle is gone till i shut truck back off.


bleeding a clutch is a 2 person or pressure bleed job
have a mate pump the clutch pedal the hold it down while you open the bleeder nipple
close the nipple and repeat the pump action
hold down and open the bleed nipple
repeat the operation until you have a solid pedal and no air coming out
keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir

Feb 18, 2017 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleed hydraulic clutch


the slave or the master please specify..the slave is the one directly on the pedal..take note reservoir for clutch and brake are the same and the master clutch is located on the transmission forward part the bleeding nipple is directly above the clutch itself

Apr 06, 2014 | 1998 Mazda 323 1.3

1 Answer

Bleeding hydraulic clutch on nissan sentra 2009


bleed it at the slave cylinder ,open the nipple. pump the clutch then need someone to help you .or use the self bleeder so hold the clutch going down call out pump it. down and hold so going down nipple open .hold nipple closed.

Dec 20, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Me and a mate have been trying to bleed my clutch on my 80 series for 5 hrs and carnt get anywhere. What the hell am I doing wrong? I can do everythingt else other then 1 of the simplist job


Just follow the procedure in the right order. Fill the clutch reservoir on the master cylinder to the max and leave the lid loose. Fit a transparent plastic pipe on the bleed nipple on the clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple. Put the other end of the pipe into a jar to catch the waste fluid. Put some thick grease around the base threads of the bleed nipple, this stops air being sucked in via the threads whne the nipple is slackened off. Loosen the bleed nipple by 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate slowly depress the clutch peddle. When he has reached maximum travel have him hold it there while you turn the bleed nipple a third turn back to tight. Have your mate release the clutch peddle, clutch fluid from the master reservoir should now fill the the master cylinder. Have you mate press the peddle a quarter way and then release the bleed nipple a 1/3 of a turn. Have your mate depress the clutch peddle all the way to maximum travel. Again tighten off the bleed nipple before releasing the clutch peddle. Keep doing this process until no more air bubbles can be seen in the fluid in the pipe attached to the bled nipple. Every four cycles or so check on the fluid level in the master reservoir and keep topped up with fresh fluid. When everything completed tighten the bleed nipple, it is not necessary to tighten the hell out of it as at some point you may need to do this again. Wipe everything down pump the clutch peddle a few times to be sure of correct operation and no leaks.

Jul 01, 2011 | 1991 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



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Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

My clutch went out and i had a mechanic friend replace the part...its the part under the engine not the actual clutch but he cant get pressure back in the clutch and cant figure out if bleeding the system...


Bleeding the system is as follows. It also helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple, which makes it easier to see if there are any air bubbles still coming out.

1. Start with the Master Cylinder full of fluid. (Don't forget to check after a few bleeds that it stays above ¼ full so that you don't introduce more air into the line).

2. Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 2 or 3 times, then hold down, keeping weight on the pedal as fluid is released.

3. Loosen bleed nipple to release any air & fluid.

4. Tighten nipple. Assistant then lets clutch pedal return. It may be necessary to manually pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.

5. Wait a few seconds then repeat the sequence from #2.
Bleeding is complete when no more air bubbles are visible in the fluid released from the bleed nipple. If clutch is still spongy you may have to repeat the bleeding after a few days driving.

Oct 27, 2010 | 1988 Toyota Pickup

3 Answers

Explain how to bleed a hydraulic clutch on 1996 Ford F-150 5 speed w/ OD


just like you would bleed breaks pump the clutch release the fluid out of the junction

Sep 02, 2010 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding manual clutch


is it a hydrolic clutch?? if so, near the clutch housing will be what looks like a bleed nipple, simlar to those on the brake system. basically check the fluid level is topped up, then with help, undoe the bleed nipple while someone pumps the clutch a few times, making sure they hold the pedal down before you tighten the nipple. repeat this until full operation of the clutch .

using a brake bleed kit will also prevent air getting back into the system. top fluid up as required while performing this process.

Apr 10, 2010 | 1986 Ford F 250

2 Answers

I cant bleed the clutch on my renault laguna 2 52 plate it has a plastic bleeding system I have tried everything but with no success Les


You need to connect the pressure bleeder to the brake master cylinder resrvoir,then bleed the clutch through from the nipple on the slave cylinder.If the nipple is not of the unscrewable type,you need to release the pipe from it's clip where the nipple is and then this will allow the air to escape and you end up with fluid with no air bubbles in it coming out of the nipple.If the nipple is of the more normal type,you need to follow the same procedure,you just undo the nipple half a turn and this will have the same effect.

It's best to connect a piece of small pipe with a container to collect the fluid in on to the nipple as you could contaminate the clutch plate with the waste fluid,and if your using a pressure bleeder it will save you getting squirted with brake fluid when you release the nipple!.

If you have someone else that can help you,don't use the pressure bleeder and just get the person to sit in the car and work the clutch pedal up and down whilst you open and close the bleed nipple.You follow the procedure,clutch pushed down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up,clutch pedal down,release nipple,close nipple,clutch pedal up and so on a so forth until no more air comes out and you have a steady stream of fluid.

Aug 19, 2009 | Renault Sportwagon Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Dodge dakota


i have a 2000 dodge dakot and can not bleed the slave cly how do i do it

Jan 29, 2009 | 1995 Dodge Dakota

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