Question about 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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1988 cutlas siera 2.8 replaced starter, had alternator cheked replaced cps, had coils and modular checked ecm works fine, won't hold charge something draining battery, anything else possible

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Do a parasitic draw check. Remove the positive side battery cable use a voltmeter on amp setting. Do not turn the ignition on while doing this remove your domelight fuse first. Then look to see how many amps you have on your meter anything over 1 amp is definitly going to drain your battery. Keep pulling fuses until the meter shows minimal to almost no draw. This may take two people, one to pull all fuses one by one while the other watches the meter as each fuse is pulled and put back in. When the amps drop a good bit after pulling a certain fuse then suspect all components and wiring connected to that particular circuit is drawing unneccesary power, possibly a faulty component grounded to power.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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This is teh generally most over looked problem, 99% of the time the glove box light stays on and you would never see if from inside the car. try removing the bulb and see if that solves your problem

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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2 Answers

My 350 engine in my 1983 cutlas loses power, but has new battery and alternater. gotta get boost to start car.


if it started having this problem after you put in a new alternator, it could be an improperly connected alternator. if not, something electrical could be staying on which would kill the battery. however if you shut it off, and immediately you try to start it and it will not start (turn ignition off, and less than 10 seconds later it still wont), then its probably something with the alternator.

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My daughter 2004 Kia won't hold a battery charge.


voltage regulator. it may be in the alternator, or remote mounted. ((the alternator can be charging, but if voltage regulator is'nt working then it won't allow voltage to get back to the battery to keep it charged

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1988 Honda Accord lxi has issues starting. Ignition, engine, starter, and most everything seems okay. Have not checked o2 sensors and getting new plugs after cleaning old ones and reinstalling them. They...


COULD BE LOOSE ALTERNATOR BELT.TRY ADJUSTING ALTENATOR BELT SEE IF HELPS PROBLEM.IF ALTERNATOR NOT CHARGING BATTERY THE ECM CANT WORK NONE OF ENGINE CONTROL SYSTEMS.IF ALTERNATOR DRIVE BELT TENSION CORRECT REMOVE ALTERNATOR TAKE TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORES THEY WILL CHECK IT OUT SEE ITS WORKING OR YOU CAN TAKE DIGITAL OR ANALOG VOLT METER TO CHECK ALTERNATOR OUT PUT AT BATTERY WITH ENGINE RUNNING SHOULD HAVE 13.5 - 14.5 VOLTS IF ALTERNATOR IE CHARGING THE BATTERY.

Jul 23, 2011 | 1988 Honda Accord 4 Door

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1990/ cutlas/ siera/ drove/in/ garage/ had/ crack/ silenoid/ replaced/ with/ new/ now/ car/ wont/ start/ turns/ over/ fine/ no/ spark/ to/ any/ silenoids.sillenoid/ 1/ of/ 3


Sounds like a weak fuel pump check your fuel pressure.It should be 40-47 psi with key on engine off and with key on engine running it should be 30-44 psi if its not within specs replace fuel pump.

Apr 30, 2011 | 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Cutlas cierra replaced battery and starter in 3.1L won't turn over just clicks could it be the alternater?


no the alternator has nothing to do with start, it serves one purpose and that is to charge the battery. So i would look into your connections and make sure all wires got connected back up. Don't know if you put new or used parts on, but is battery fully charged and did you check starter for operation before you installed? Whether new or used i always check parts for proper working condition before i install for this reason. I do not like to remove and replace twice, it takes to much time and money.

Jan 17, 2011 | Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Idle fluxuates up and down consistantly


Check the Idle Control System

Idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). The IACV changes the amount of air being bypassed to the intake manifold, in response to electric current controlled by the ECM. When the IACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain proper idle speed.

Symptom and Subsystems to Check:

1. Difficult to start engine, when cold--check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

2. Fast idle out of spec, when cold:
a. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
b. Check IACV.
c. Check idle adjusting screw (see Section C).

3. Rough idle:
a. Check hoses and connections.
b. Check IACV.

4. RPM too high, when warm:
a. Check IACV.
b. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
c. Check hoses and connections, check Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal, and check idle adjusting screw.

5. RPM too low, when warm:
a. Idle speed is below specified rpm, with no load--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.
b. Idle speed doesn't increase after initial start up--check IACV.
c. Idle speed drops in gear (automatic transmission)--check automatic transaxle gear position switch signal.
d. Idle speed drops when AC is on--check air conditioning signal and IACV.
e. Idle speed drops when steering wheel is turned--check power steering pressure switch signal and IACV.
f. Idle speed fluctuates with electrical load--check hoses and connections, IACV, and Alternator FR Signal.

6. Frequent stalling, while warming up--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.

7. Frequent stalling, after warming up--check idle adjusting screw and IACV.

Additional Steps:

. Check Alternator FR Signal. Have alternator inspected, if idle speed fluctuates with electrical load. The FR signal communicates to the ECM how "hard" the alternator is working to meet the electrical demands of the car, including the battery and any loads which aren't monitored by the ELD. This square-wave signal varies in pulse width, according to the load on the alternator. The ECM places, approximately, 5 reference volts on the wire. The voltage regulator will drop this signal to approximately 1.2 volts, in proportion to alternator load. The ECM compares the electrical load (ELD) signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off. This helps fuel economy.

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.

. Reset ECM, by removing the 7.5 amp Back Up Fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Replace PCV Valve, cleaning hose with brake cleaner spray.

. Substitute a known-good ECM. If symptom goes away, replace original ECM.

Check the ICM (Erratic RPM and PGM-FI System)

When the engine is cold, the air conditioner compressor is on, the transmission is in gear (automatic transmission only) or the alternator is charging, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. Here's an overview of how the PGM-FI System works.

Background:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

Idle RPM:

Once you understand how the PGM-FI system is configured, it's easy to see how the ECM, Idle Air Control Valve, and the Ignition Control Module affect idle rpm. If the ECM's Electronic Idle Control function is not working properly, then it cannot properly control the IAC Valve. Likewise, if the ECM's Ignition Timing Control function is not operating properly, it cannot properly control the ICM (igniter). Obviously, idle rpm will also be affected if there's a problem with the IAC Valve or the ICM. As stated above, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. This cannot happen if the IAC Valve is failing. The same situation exists if the ICM is failing. The ECM will tell the ICM to open and close the primary voltage circuit going to the coil and it won't respond properly. The result will be erratic spark plug firing and erratic rpm.

Conclusion:

If you are experiencing erratic idle rpm, try and isolate whether the problem is caused by the ICM (ignitor), IAC Valve, or the ECM. My experience has been that a failing ICM is usually responsible for the problem. Keep in mind that tachometers are connected directly to the ICM. Therefore, a fluctuating tachometer needle is often a dead giveaway. Heat and poor preventive maintenance (causing high secondary voltage to be discharge on internal distributor components) frequently causes the ICM (and coil) to fail. Besides performance, this is another reason why it's important to regularly replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotors, and distributor caps. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance, even if it isn't the intended one. Our job is to ensure the intended path is the path of least resistance.

Ignitor (ICM) and Coil Replacement:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
5. Remove rotor and leak cover.
6. Unfasten ignitor wires, remove coil mounting screws, and set coil aside. Note: Removing coil first improves access to igniter.
7. Unfasten screws securing igniter to housing.
8. Remove ignitor from distributor and unfasten screws mounting ignitor to heat sink.
9. Coat back of new ignitor (or old igniter, if reusing) and male connectors with silicone grease. Silicone grease increases heat transfer to heat sink. Failure to apply silicone grease will cause the ignitor to quickly fail.
10. Mount ignitor to heat sink and reinstall ignitor, igniter terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ignitor terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free. If you plan to keep the car, I would replace the ICM due the age of your Civic.

Sep 15, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Changed starter and alternator and still wont start on 1988 grand am


There are few things that you will have to check. 1) Is the battery properly charged. 2) Are you getting spark at the spark plugs, when you crank the car to start. 3) Is there proper fuel in the car. ---------------- If the battery is not charged properly the car will not start.Check the voltage of the battery .It should be exact 12volt. If there is no spark coming when you crank the engine then its the problem of either the spark plugs or the coil pack.the spark plugs gets power to spark from coil packs.Also check the fuel pump and fuel filter.If the fuel pump and fuel filter are worn out then it will not supply the fuel properly to the engine and this results in no-start problem. If all battery, fuel pump and spark plugs checked out OK then its time to check the wiring connections between the battery to starter and battery to alternator.This will help. Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

May 20, 2010 | 1988 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Engine turns over well but wont start


check the battery an make sure its holding a charge and test the alternator and checkout the starter to make sure its good and not drawing on the battery

May 16, 2009 | 1998 GMC Savana

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