Question about 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
the fuel pressure regulator is on the end of the fuel rail it is held on by a torx screw relieve the fuel pressure using the schrader valve on the fuel rail remove regulator holding screw and replace new regulator be carful not to damage o-rings on new regulator
Posted on Nov 02, 2008
SOURCE: Toyota V6 fuel pressure amount
The fuel pressure regulator is on the driver side fuel rail, close to the back of the engine. You need to pull the intake plenum off to access the pressure regulator.
The normal operating fuel pressure is 38 to 44 PSI
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Posted on Feb 21, 2009
garxmx3: 1st, the fuel pressure regulator operates off of engine vacuum. The engine must be running to create vacuum and without it, the fuel pressure regulator essentually is restricting the return to fuel to the fuel tank, but the fuel injectors have all the fuel they could possibly need. The fuel pressure during initial start if ther is no vacuum, is 45-50 PSI which will create a rich condition consequently there would be no need for starting fluid or any other out side fuel source to influence the starting of the motor.
NOW>>>>> Lets see if we can sort the problem out>
If the engine ran alright on starting fluid, this would suggest that the mechanical aspect, meaning, the chain is probably on there correctly because if it's off, it won't run well at all or it will bend valves! Just to make sure, you could run a compression test. At cranking speed with the throttle wide open you should have at least 130 PSI or more. What you are looking for is no more than a 10% difference between the highest and lowest readings. If you have more than that, you will have problems which will be contingent based on the findings. If you have big differences, tell me what they are and I can take an educated guess at what happened or what the problem is. IF the valve timing is correct, we will move on to other things you need to check OK?
"False AIR" is a common problem with no starts and hard starts when a cylinder head has been pulled and put back on.
All air which enters the motor MUST pass through the air mass sensor. It is metered air so the ECM has a means of, with the input of a few other things, controlling the pulse width of the injectors.
The large hose which the air mass sensor is attached to and goes to the throttle body, after they get old, are prone to splitting and/or tearing. Look carefully at it to make sure that there are no splits or places where unmetered air can get in between the air mass sensor and the throttle body. This includes any and all hoses which attach to tthe manifold and/or the intake in any way shape or form.
Check the pcv hose and valve. Some of those hoses get so soft that they almost turn to gum. If you pulled the injectors, make sure that you had put the tip seals back.
If it ran, in theory, the distributor should have been in correctly. Check and make sure that the wire going to the distributor did not get damaged from anything chaffing or pinching them.
Look closely at the coil and it's connection to make sure nothing has come loose.
Some of these EFI harnesses had an independant ground wire coming out of the harness which had to be bolted to the intake manifod. Check yours and make sure yours is secure if you have one coming out of your harness.
You want to know if the injectors are operating? One way, get a screw driver with a long shaft, or something similar which you can place the tip on to the body of the injector. You want to have you ear against the other end of the shaft. If the injector is operationg, you will hear a sharp ticking when the engine is being cranked or if the engine is running. Sometimes it is easier to pull the plugs and spin the engine with the plugs out, to listen to the injectors, because there is less noise when you don't have the resistance of the cylinders working against you. At the same time, the ignition is what pulses the injectors. Pull the coil wire out from the distributor and hold it close to a ground while cranking the engine. You should have a sharp visible spark. If you don't have a spark, you won't have injector pulse.
Coming off your positive battery cable at the positive terminal, is a connector where smaller wire hook into it. Make sure thse have good solid clean connections. They corrode there and can kill the circuits which relate to the ECM.
OH! pull the spark plugs and look at them to see what color they are. See if they look like they have been run rich or lean.
Rich is very dark black almost a fluffy black soot, if the engine was fireing. If you try to spin it over befor you do anything and you pull the plug out and they are wet and smell of gas. that is a story by it self.
I have given you a lot of avenues to explore. Check these out and if they lead to blind alleys, get back to me and I'll continue to see what I can do for you.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
SOURCE: 1996 jeep cherokee 4.0 MPI.
Lets start with technical bulletin how to determine whether fuel pressure regulator is at fault or not :-
FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST - ALL ENGINES WITH PRESSURE TEST PORT
Use this test in conjunction with the Fuel Pump Capacity Test, Fuel Pressure Leak Down Test and Fuel Pump Amperage Test found elsewhere in this group.
Check Valve Operation: The electric fuel pump outlet contains a one-way check valve to prevent fuel flow back into the tank and to maintain fuel supply line pressure (engine warm) when pump is not operational. It is also used to keep the fuel supply line full of gasoline when pump is not operational. After the vehicle has cooled down, fuel pressure may drop to 0 psi (cold fluid contracts), but liquid gasoline will remain in fuel supply line between the check valve and fuel injectors. Fuel pressure that has dropped to 0 psi on a cooled down vehicle (engine off) is a normal condition. When the electric fuel pump is activated, fuel pressure should immediately (1 - 2 seconds) rise to specification.
All fuel systems are equipped with a fuel tank module mounted, combination fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator is not controlled by engine vacuum.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CONSTANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. BEFORE DISCONNECTING FUEL LINE AT FUEL RAIL, THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED. REFER TO THE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELEASE PROCEDURE.
1. Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port. Connect the 0 - 414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail
2. Start and warm engine and note pressure gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 339 kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 5 psi) at idle.
3. If engine runs, but pressure is below 44.2 psi, check for a kinked fuel supply line somewhere between fuel rail and fuel pump module. If line is not kinked, but specifications for either the Fuel Pump Capacity, Fuel Pump Amperage or Fuel Pressure Leak Down Tests were not met, replace fuel pump module assembly.
4. If operating pressure is above 54.2 psi, electric fuel pump is OK, but fuel pressure regulator is defective. Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator. .
5. Install protective cap to fuel rail test port.
The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump, it is in the fuel tank.
On this vehicle the regulator is part of the pump and not serviceable separately so if the regulator is bad the whole pump assembly will need to be replaced.
Posted on Aug 19, 2010
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