Question about 1989 Ford F 150

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I have an 89 f150 5.0 302 turns over but has no spark. changed coil, pluggs n wires. rotor looks fine. Im thinkin ignition module or pick up coil...just wanna be sure ive checked everything before i pull off the distributor. Thanks

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  • Ford Master
  • 8,273 Answers

Yes, ign module.

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

  • Jerry G
    Jerry G Apr 18, 2014

    Mods mounted Dist thru 1989 are know to overheat and stop functioning. Need to cool of or carry spares - plural!

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1 Answer

89 Silverado... Cranked it ran for about 20 seconds, went dead and hasn't started back. Just turns over and over. Im getting gas. But im not getting fire


Make sure battery has a full charge. Don't crank the starter motor more than a few seconds at a time, let it cool, a little. How long since a tune-up? Are there any applicable codes? Have you tried a jumper wire at your data link connector, to get codes? If your check engine lite isn't functional, it won't work.
Did you check primary voltage to ignition coil, usually a pink wire, goes hot with the key on. If possible, use a test light on negative side of coil, it should pulse with engine cranking. The ignition module pulses ground with input from pick-up coil. Could be other issues? If the battery isn't charged, we're just spinning our wheels.

Does the rotor turn when you crank it?

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2000 Chevy express Van 4.3 motordistributor cap and rotor new friendship position sensor new coil and its mission module our new still no spark


If the ignition coil, crank sensor,ignition ,module ,cap and rotor are new then possibly a bad pick up coil inside the distributor bad ignition coil wire from dist. to coil or missing power supply

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89 gmc jimmy 5.7L it gets spark from coil to distributer but not from distributer to motor. Spark plugs and wires are brand new, module is fine, cap and rotor is fine.


if im correct in saying this, i think there is a small cylindrical looking piece with one wire comming out from the front in the distributer under the distributer cap next to the points this is could a condenser you could try changing this for a new one all so check the gape your points make if to small you will get no spark as well if to big

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No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
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Jul 30, 2010 | 1985 Chevrolet Chevy

1 Answer

1979 chevy van not getting spark.was running fine day before.turns over fine,getting fuel.could it be the module


First thing is what condition are the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires in?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil located in the top of the distributor cap is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Bat" or "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position. Then check the secondary resistance to the ignition coil.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


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assuming you the coil, plugs, cap, rotor and wires are good. check the cam sensor, If you have 12 volts to the coil using a 12v light tester. The cam sensor responsible for sending info to the computer telling it that the cam is turning, then the computer tell the coil to dispurse the charge/sparks to the distributor as distributor distribute the sparks to each plugs from the rotor of the distributor. Replace the cam sensor, it tend to go bad over period of time.

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i know what your problem is....its a ford!!!!

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