Question about 1999 Saab 9-5

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Excessive force needed to apply brakes. Master cylinder full. Power has gone out of the power brakes.

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Look under the hood and on the driver's side at the booster behind the master cylinder. Check to make sure that the vacuum hose is still in tact and not damaged. If this is fine, replace the booster. What this item does is amplify your push by using vacuum to pull a diaphragm and push the rod into the master cylinder. If the diaphragm is damaged internally(no vacuum), you will need to push on the brakes like an old world war 2 duece and a half to stop. Let me know if you need anything else.

Posted on Sep 05, 2010

Testimonial: "Checking the hose is something other information sources missed. Thanks for your help! L. Ledford"

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I have a 2000 mazda 323 with a manual transmission. i have already change the clutch kit but the gear is still hard to shift


Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

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1997 chevrolet monte carlo brake problems


Would you care to explain in detail the problems,
& who works on your vehicles & why you have problems

Dec 10, 2012 | 1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

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Problem with 98 GMC sierra front brakes the front right keeps locking up I have just replacied the berrings, rotars, calipers, pads, and brake hoses, still cannot figure out why they keep locking up can...


CHECK THAT THE MASTER CYLINDER IS ADJUSTED PROPERLY TO LET FULL RELEASR AFTER LETING UP APPLY PRESSURE AND LET OFF BRAKE POP THE LINE TO THE LARGE SIDE OF MASTER CYLINDER IF ANY PRESSURE IS PRESENT ADJ ROD BETWEEN MASTER CYL AND POWER BRAKE UNIT ANDJUST IT SHORTER A HALF TURN AT A TIME TILL NO PRESSUR OR BRAKES RELEASE THEN ADD ONE HALF TURN MORE HOPE THIS HELPS GOOD LUCK

Jan 30, 2012 | 1998 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Replace brake booster


here you go...

The power brake booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. Some models may be equipped with a single or dual function vacuum switch which activates a brake warning light should low booster vacuum be present. Under normal operation, vacuum is present on both sides of the diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, atmospheric air is admitted to one side of the diaphragms to provide power assistance.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1994-97 Models
See Figures 1 and 2
  1. Apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
  2. Remove the master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts, then reposition the master cylinder and combination valve out of the way; if necessary, support the master cylinder on a wire to prevent damaging the brake lines.

When removing the master cylinder from the power brake booster, it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines, therefore the brake system should not have to be bled.
  1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.


12_11_2011_8_48_59_pm.gif

Fig. Fig 1: Common power brake booster attachment


  1. From under the dash, remove the retainer and washer from the brake pedal on 1994 utility models. On all other models, remove the retainer and brake switch from the brake pedal.
  2. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.
  3. From under the dash, remove the power brake booster-to-cowl retaining nuts.
  4. Back under the hood, remove the power brake booster and the gasket from the cowl.

To install:
  1. Position the booster to the cowl using a new gasket.
  2. Install the bo oster retaining nuts and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1994 utility models, 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) on 1994 pick-up models and 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) on all 1995-97 models.
  3. Connect the pedal pushrod and install the washer or switch and the retainer.
  4. Connect the vacuum hose.
12_11_2011_8_52_07_pm.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the piston booster rod using the gauge tool

  1. For all vehicles cover ed in this guide, gauge the booster rod:
    1. Apply 25 in. Hg (85 kPa) of vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump or apply maximum engine vacuum.
    2. Chec k the maximum and minimum rod lengths using J-37839 or an equivalent pushrod height gauge.
    3. If the piston is not within limits, install a service adjustable piston rod and adjust it to the correct length.
  2. Reposition the master cylinder and combination valve bracket to the booster studs, then secure using the retaining nuts. For details, please refer to the master cylinder procedure located earlier in this section.
  3. Start and run the engine, then check for proper booster operation.

Dec 11, 2011 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Hyundai i30 brake pedal creeps to floor if moderate sustained forced is applied. No external leaks. Any idea why?


yes your master cylinder is bad. if you apply mild force it goes to floor but if you hold hard it is fine right? yes your master cylinder is bad. if you have not ran out of fluid and had to add some you can rule out air. brake systems dont produce air on their own. i would say a master cylinder and nother person to help you bleed it out will take care of that.

Sep 25, 2011 | Hyundai Accent Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove power booster 1998 chevrolet pickup


It should be bolted on. Depending on the model, things might look different, but a socket wrench set should be all that is required.
Maybe a pry bar.

Power Boosters Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is always available when the engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into moving the brake pedal.
The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost.
Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm and springs return the diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the released position.
If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the brakes without any power assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the pedal feels harder than usual.

Jul 05, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

Brake problems


by repressurize, do you mean 'pumps up'. If everytime you hit the brakes (allowed to sit for a few moments between uses) it starts applying the brakes near the 'normal' pedal position, then it sounds like the master cylinder has gone bad.

Other less likely causes, lots of water got in the brake fluid (assuming nonsynthetic brake fluid) and has turned to junk.... Might try power bleeding the system, but my bet is the master cylinder.

Peace,

Mar 05, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

99 malibu brakes


you need to have brake booster looked at, it uses vacuum from the engine to multiply the force that your foot applies to the master cylinder. if that checks out ok then you are lookng at master cylinder

Apr 19, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu

4 Answers

Brakes spongy and fading


Hi

Since your brake fluid level has not gone down, leaking calipers or hoses, letting air into the system can be eliminated.
Suggest you run engine, and sit with your foot on the brake pedal quite hard, and see if it drops drastically.
If so, this points conclusively to the brake master cylinder, and being a 2001 model, is a distinct possibility.

By the way, as you have dual system braking, you should never loose your brakes completely, nor the pedal reach fully to the floor.

The other possibility is excessive play, in one of your front hub wheel bearings, allowing the brake pads to be pushed back on cornering, then on first application of the brakes, you will have to pump the pedal.

Hope I have been of some help.

Good Luck !

Please don´t forget to give me a FixYa rating thanks !

John.

Jan 26, 2009 | 2001 Jaguar XJ8

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