Question about 1997 GMC Sierra

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I need to replace the ball joints on my 1997 GMC K1500. I want to replace the upper control arm and bushings as well as the tie rod ends. I was leaning towards MOOG but can't seem to find the control arm from them. I would also like to shorten the project a little by purchasing the control arm and ball joints assembled. O...O...O...O-Rielly has this setup with their Master Pro brand but I know nothing about that brand. What should I use so I only have to do this job once?

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In my opinion, Moog is the best you will find. Try their website or Amazon for complete arms.

Posted on Jun 06, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Caravan Front end clunk.

Had similar problem with 2003 Dodge GC. Replaced the parts you mention + rack & pinion, then to fix the now noticable whining noise, replaced power steering pump and pulley. Fortunately was under an extended warrentee at 46k miles.

Posted on Jul 19, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: inner tie rod end on 1999 chrysler 300m

oh yes, this is a problem with most all chrysler cars, front wheel drive, they will not admit to it or fix the problem though. just give us 2 or $300 and we'll repair it. bs. you need a bushing replacement kit, autozone under 10 bucks. and a little patients. drop me an email and i will upload photos of steps and try to talk you through it. not that hard no special tools only took 45min. no charge of course. you have to stick it to the system some times.
garyperrault@hotmail.com

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

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SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Durango clunking noise in front end can

With the information given this is not a sure solution. Questions that need to be asked is when does this happen, turning at slow speedm high speed, when hitting a pot hole etc? Since you have replaced a lot of things already, assuming you have NEW good quality parts so you did not replace bad parts with new bad parts i would definitelu check the pitman arm. This runs from the stering gear to the tierod. It can give you some good clunks while steering, especially at low speed when there is a lot of resistance. Check it by having someone turning the steering wheel when watchin/feeling it.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

reisdos
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SOURCE: need the torque specs for

hope this helps...

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Posted on May 11, 2010

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: replace inner tie rod ends on 2005 gmc 1500

Yes, there is an inner tie rod end wrench, there are a few different types of wrenches available. You should be able to borrow one from one of your local parts stores. (Oreillys, Auto Zone, Napa, etc..)

Posted on Jun 01, 2010

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2 Answers

Car shekes when hit bumps


Check for bad wheel balance, struts, lower ball joints ( no upper joints) , outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings, lower control arm bushings , and finally a wheel alignment ,you have some bad looseness in one or more of these front end parts. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Mar 15, 2015 | 2001 Dodge Intrepid

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Ball joint bolt fell out upper in 2007 GMC Envoy


Upper ball joint? That's not related to the job of replacing a tie rod or tie rod end. It's also not related to the brake job.

It's an '07 and it had a bolt-in ball joint? That's not factory - it's been replaced before.

Aug 07, 2014 | 2007 GMC Envoy

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Have replaced all tie rods; inner&outer;struts&upper mounts;sway bar bushings & links;lower control arms with ball joints& passenger side upper motor mount.none of these have changed this noise even s


What noise? And year and make of car?
A clicking noise on turns is a worn CV joint on the axle shafts. A grinding noise at one of the wheels could be a wheel bearing. Worn brake pads may cause squealing, screeching other high pitched noise.

Jul 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Want to put new bushings in front end but know the exact name of them all, can someone help me with this


you have upper control arm bushings and lower control arm bushings, a total of four on each side. while doing this it would be the best time to do ball joints tie rod ends etc... save this for a weekend project it is time consuming. GOOD LUCK!

Mar 08, 2013 | 1997 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

How to replace the passenger control arm on the 2006 suzuki grand vitara


Most front ends are set up basically the same way.First raise and support your front end and remove the tire.Both the upper and lower should look about the same.If you look at the control arm you will have an upper and lower ball joint and a tie rod end bolted to the steering knuckle.Remove the bolt on the tie rod end and use a ball joint separate to remove the tie rod end.Then remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle with your separator.Depending on which control arm it is if its the upper you will also have to remove the brake hose out of the way to remove the upper control arm.Once that's done you will see 2 bolts that hold the control arms to the frame remove these bolts and your control arm will come off,You might have to pry them a little bit to get them out.You also want to have something handy to block up your steering knuckle until your ready to put it back together.It wouldn't hurt to have a piece of wire just in case you need to tie something in place.And be sure you grease everything with a high pressure grease.

Mar 06, 2011 | 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara

3 Answers

Front tire wear on inside creating pockets and road noise. how much of the front end do i need to replace to achieve alignment?


You can't stop short with front end repair or your just throughing money away . But upper and lower ball joints are the biggest problem on this vehicle . The uppers are not bolted they used rivits to hold them to the frame and with antilock brakes the vehicle shakes from side to side and this loosens the rivets once there loose the front end can not be alinged So start with that ball joints the rest of the parts are heavy dudty

Jan 26, 2011 | 1999 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

2000 gmc z71 passenger side cv joint is making noise when i turn......i talk to napa and can get rebuilt for 60$.....but to take it apart....do i need ball joint separator.....what tools..????


Never use a tool myself other than a big hammer. Those forks don't work for me, though we have them. Hit the joint on the side and it will pop out. If not, you can always put the nut back on even with the ball stud and hit it from the bottom. The book also calls for a special tool to get the axle out of the hub. Have never used this either. If it doesn't slide out, I just hit it--I have a new one anyway (take it loose from the tranny before hitting it). Tools you will need are the big socket for the axle nut (around 22mm or so) and regular metric socket set, preferably 1/2 in drive. Also take the speed sensor and brake lines off the support bracket to free up the hub a little more. Note that you may need to also separate the tie rod end if you cannot otherwise swing the hub out far enough to get the shaft out. The book says to take off the stabilizer and shock and also separate the upper ball joint. I don't know if that's necessary or not, as I have not done one on this particular truck. You are doing the whole shaft, right? We don't do individual CVs anymore, as the labor is ridiculous compared to the cost difference to a whole half shaft. Take the axle nut off, unbolt the shaft from the tranny, and swing the hub out. Pull the axle out of the hub first, then the tranny. Reverse procedure to install. I will paste the book solution from autozone.com below. Lemme know if you have more questions.

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Front wheel and tire assembly Skid plate, as required. If equipped Drive axle hub nut and washer Brake line and wheel speed sensor support bracket from the upper control arm to allow extra travel of the control arm. Left outer tie rod attaching nut and cotter pin. Separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle
  3. Position the tie rod aside and push steering linkage to the opposite side of the vehicle.

    Lower shock attaching nut and bolt; position the shock aside Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm
  4. Taking pressure off the upper control arm by placing a support below the lower control arm between the spring seat and the ball joint.
    NOTE Cover the shock mounting bracket and lower ball joint stud with a towel to prevent the axle boot from tearing during removal and installation.


    Upper ball joint cotter pin and loosen (do not remove) the upper ball joint attaching nut. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Remove the attaching nut.
  5. Separate the axle shaft from the hub and rotor using tool J-28733 or equivalent.

    Axle shaft inner flange bolts and shaft
To install:
  1. Lubricate the axle and hub splines with an approved high temperature wheel bearing grease.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Axle shaft in the hub Inboard CV-joint-to-flange bolts. Torque the bolts to 60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm). Upper ball joint to steering knuckle. Torque the stud nut to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). New cotter pin through the upper ball joint stud and nut, lubricate the ball joint as required. Left stabilizer bar bracket and bushing at the frame Stabilizer bar bolt, spacer and bushings at the lower control arm Lower shock in the mount bracket and the attaching nut and bolt Left tie rod end at the steering knuckle. Torque the nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm). New cotter pin through the tie rod stud and nut Brake line bracket to the control arm, ensuring the line and/or hose is not twisted or kinked Skid plate, as required Axle hub washer and nut. Insert a drift through the rotor vanes to keep the axle from turning. Toque the hub nut to 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm) Wheel and tire assembly

Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

1 Answer

How do i make sure i have greased all of my grease fittings


You should have one fitting on each upper and lower ball joint, (4 total), and you may or may not have fittings on each of the four tie rod ends. Don't overgrease any of them, they only need one or two strokes of the gun. I think that is all you have. Some cars have a fitting on each end of the upper A-arm, but GM generally uses a rubber bushing there instead, no grease required. The lower suspension arm to the frame is almost always a bushing and needs no grease.

You *might* have fittings on your driveshaft universal joints, although these need a special "needle" fitting to reach them. Most u-joints don't have fittings, however. If you have them, they are standard fittings located in one of the four inner "corners" of the joint, near the center.

Oct 10, 2010 | 1997 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Commonly replaced front end suspension parts for a 1997 chevrolet c/k truck 2wd. been talking to a few so called experts and a few back yard mechanics and the answers are always different. My simple...


There isn't any one part that sticks out as having a higher failure rate then the others. It's like most any full size pickup, it will need ball joints, tie rods, idler arm and a pitman arm at some point. The only out of ordinary part that goes bad is the upper control arm bushings. They begin to deteriorate and crack away, eventually needing replacement.

May 29, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet C/K 3500

4 Answers

How do I replace the upper ball joints in my 2002 Ford Explorer?


The upper ball joints are replaceable without replacing the control arms. Use Moog K80008 ball joints and a ball joint press.

Jun 25, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

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