Question about 1998 Saab 900
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1999 Saab 900 radio reset code
whenever the battery is removed (or car experiences any loss of power) you must type in security code for radio (this is the case with BMWs and Volvos as well). Go to any saab dealership and they can remove the radio and get your radio's 4 digit code, they all have one. Yes, I have done this before ` they didn't charge me and I was in and out in ten minutes.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
1. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the clutch cable end from the clutch arm end at the wire stop.
3. Slide out the rubber doughnut from the gearbox housing which holds the clutch cable
4. Move the distribution box nut and the alarm pin attached to it (some modules)
5. Disconnect the clutch cable holder from the fender and the data link holder.
6. Remove the drivers lower panel below the steering wheel and remove the air duct as well as the knee shield.
7. Slide out the fuse box holder and ICE Box (should be a black box with many wires going to it). You can remove the instrument cluster at this point but you can also do this without removing the cluster with a little patience
8. Move the pedal spring to one side and remove the eye catch for the cable.
9. Remove the clutch cable by pulling it out from the engine compartment
10. Reinstall in the reverse. Saab actually came out with a bulletin which Needed one to install two washers at the back of the new cable instead of one. The factory cable comes with one but you can remove the 2nd washer off the old cable and install it on the new cable so two exist. This helps take up excessive pedal slack.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Try buying one of the manuals I have listed from ebay , the guy is a real gent and the manual is a fantastic help. Motros from Saab are not cheap but if the tonneau motor needs replacing, try here http://www.neobrothers.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=724 for a reconditioned one
CD manual can be found here http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-900-CONVERTIBLE-HOOD-REPAIR-TROUBLESHOOT-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ220365143328QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET?hash=item334ec93d20&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A30
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
First, check the fuses for the hydraulic motor; if they're blown, replace and monitor (why did they blow? Perhaps an overload, or ...) These fuses are located in the engine bay on top of the fender by the front right wheel housing.
Next check the voltage supply to the top switch, possibly a loose connection or broken wire.
Also check relays C (raising top) and D (lowering top) under the rear seat.
Lastly check for voltage at the pump, also under the rear seat, when the switch is actuated, and that the voltage polarity reverses when the switch is actuated the other way (up or down).
After that, it's a hydraulic/mechanical problem. Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir (use SAAB fluid to top up if low) Fluid level should be at the upper marker with top down, and at the lower marker with top up.
Check behind the rear seat side panels that the piston shaft is still properly attached to the roof mechanism bracket at one end, and the piston itself is still firmly attached to the body. Look for any leakage from the system.
If all tests out OK and looks good under the rear seat and behind the side panels, then there is the possibility that the piston seals have failed and the fluid is just circulating around without activating the piston. Pistons are available (http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=584 - scroll down) but the entire system should be removed to avoid getting hydraulic fluid on the interior.
However, that fact that you can operate the hood using the bypass valve (manually) would indicate that the hydraulics are likely OK, and that it's probably an electrical or mechanical problem.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
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