Timing belt not broke, but engine has no compression on a 1997 chrysler sebring.

See if the ignition still works by checking for spark on a spark plug wire. If no spark could be the ignition module or the crank position sensor.
I doubt if anything wrong with the timing belt-you would have heard a loud pop if it broke. Look inside the oil filler place on top- of the valve cover. When the engine is cranked, if belt is good you will see movement of the camshafts and the valves moving up and down.

If this is a 2.5 LV-6 engine, This is an interference engine. If the belt broke, you may have bent valves. Have you done a compression test? Second issue with this engine is cam sensor failure. In the Distributor and whole unit is simplest repair.

start with the simple things first. Is the starter engaging ? Is the battery strong enough to turn the starter? Keep it simple to start with and go with the "flow chart" method.

You likely need a fuel pump because you hear the pump, but it is NOT pumping anything- like a well needs priming. Drop the tank and replace the pump.

how do you know all this (plugs firing, timing belt good, etc ) if engine wont crank??
Chrysler had a major problem in those years with the distributor going bad...buy new on ebay for around $100...dont buy used1

If the timing belt broke when the engine was running, I would say that you may have bent some valves. If I remember correctly, Chrysler engines stopped being the 'free-wheeling' type after the Acclaim.That is, there is sufficent clearance between valves and pistons to ensure no damage should the cam belt break with the engine running.

As you have had the engine running, it would be a good idea to give it a compression / leak-down test. Unfortunately fuel injected cars do not back-fire through the intake system as a carb type would do, if a valve were bent.

Depending on the engine type this is a big job, the waterpump is driven by the timing belt and you must use caution as to engine damage may ocurr, if the timing gears are not 100% aligned when installing the timing belt heres a diagram to show you what im talking about,

The philosophy "if ain't broke do not fix", doesn't work for the timing belt. If it broke the overhead cam stops, but the crank shaft keeps moving, and the result is one or more bent valve. Normally the repair cost is ten times more, than a timing belt change. The manual recommend to change the timing belt at 90000miles. It is a good idea to replace other belts, and the water pump. Make sure to send your car to professionals. It is not rare for people to have problems with engine after replacing the timing belt. In all my cars I do it by myself. It is not impossible, but you will spend more time than a professional. If you decide to do it by yourself, then get the Haynes Repair Manual (Based on a complete tear down and rebuilt), specific for your car. I have one for each of my cars. Go to the part Engine, and use the chapter Timing belt removal inspection, and Top Dead Center (TDC) location, and put the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. This can be found by putting the thumb over the spark plug hole and the pressure will push your finger upward till piston reaches the upper point. This can be done by inserting a long blunt object into the spark plug hole. Note the point where the object stops moving out this is the TDC. Hope this will help.

The 2.4L is an "interface" engine. This means the vavles share the same space as the piston. When the belt breaks piston can hit valves and cause big problems. In this case, I would install or have one installed and see what happens. In other cases when belt is installed there can be no signs of damage. Its a 50/50. It would run around $200 to find out Parts and labor. Cross your fingers and good luck

Here we go:

Check
timing marks are correct. Cam is in time with crank.
proper spark plug wiring sequence.
look at actual timing.

Car does not have to be running to check the actual timing. Hook up timing light and crank motor. Light should flash so you can look at timing marks to see if you are "Close enough" to fire off.

If cam and crank are not in time, you may have bent the valves again. Check compression. It will tell you the answer.

Good luck