Question about 1991 Buick Park Avenue

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I bought a new master cylinder and tried to bleed the brakes, but two of them would not bleed while the other two bled just fine. the drivers side front and the passengers side rear would not bleed. Any ideas

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  • Buick Master
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Yes, you have to pre bleed the M/C. After market parts stores sell a kit that allows you to bleed it easily....It is difficult to get air to go downhill.

after prebleeding M/C, do not let it run dry while bleeding the brakes.

Posted on Sep 03, 2010

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Brakes went out,master cylinder is dry. filled the master cylinder pumped brakes and bled rear drivers side


    If there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir indicates a properly bled brakesystem.

    How To: Bleed Your Brakes - Feature - Car and Driver

    www.caranddriver.com/.../how-to-bleed-your-brakes-feature Car and Driver
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How To: Bleed Your Brakes - Feature - Car and Driver

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Car and DriverIf there is a substantial fluid eruption, there are air bubbles still trapped in the system. You must repeat the bleeding procedure to remove that air. A modest disturbance in the fluid returning to the reservoir indicates a properly bled brake system.

How to Bleed Brakes - Tips on Bleeding Brakes

Jan 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1998 nissan altima brakes to the floor


Still air in system, sounds like the master cylinder has ran dry during the bleeding process, pumping more air into system. The lines running to the rear brakes are long, so you must bleed the fluid out the bleed screw in the rear 10+ times each side. Bleed, bleed, and bleed some more, keep bleeding untill that pedal feels good.

Dec 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

New brake line problem


Any vehicle with ABS has to be bled by forcing fluid in at the brake nipple and through the lines UP to the master cylinder. You are trying to do it master cylinder to caliper.

Mar 26, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My kid bought a 99 Grand Am, the brakes were spongy and had to be pumped. The car now has new front calipers, pads, and new master cylinder. We bench bled the master cylinder and bled out the brakes. The...


If the car has Drum style rear brakes, make sure the adjustment is good. It takes a lot of fluid to activate them.
PS. I assume you did bleed the rears.

Apr 12, 2011 | Pontiac Grand Am Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I replaced the whole back break line,as i try to bleed them i get fluid out of the front passenger side and the back driver side,but nothing out of the other two.whats the problem?


Hi, your proportioning valve is stuck. Take the caps off and recenter the one stuck valve. Then rebleed the system using the procedure below. Thanks for using fixya.

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For those of us who are not fortunate enough to have access to a power bleeding tool, the manual brake bleeding procedure will quite adequately remove air from the hydraulic system. The major difference between the pressure and manual bleeding procedures is that the manual method takes more time and will require help from an assistant. One person must depress the brake pedal, while another opens and closes the bleeder screws.
  1. Deplete the vacuum reserve by applying the brakes several times with the ignition OFF .
  2. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover and fill the reservoirs with clean fluid.
  3. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected to contain air. If the master cylinder was removed and bench bled before installation it must still be bled, but it should take less time and effort. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the front brake line(s) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.




WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle's finish as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.

  1. Tighten the line connection(s).
  2. Have an assistant depress and hold the brake pedal.
  3. Loosen the line connection(s) again, allowing air to escape from the master cylinder.
  4. Tighten the line(s), then have the assistant release the brake pedal and wait for 15 seconds.
  5. Repeat steps D through F until the line(s) are free of air.
  6. When finished bleeding the air from the master cylinder, tighten the line connections to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  7. Repeat steps B through H, only with the master cylinder rear pipe fitting(s).

  1. Refill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid.



WARNING Never reuse brake fluid that has been bled from the system.

  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left rear
    3. Right front
    4. Left front

  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end. Be sure the hose is seated snugly on the screw or you may be squirted with brake fluid.
    2. Submerge the other end of the tube in a transparent container of clean brake fluid.
    3. With the help of an assistant, apply the brake pedal slowly and hold.


During the bleeding procedure, make sure your assistant does NOT release the brake pedal while a fitting is loosened or while a bleeder screw is opening. Air will be drawn back into the system.
  1. While the assistant continues to apply pressure to the brake pedal, loosen the bleeder screw, and watch for air bubbles in the container.

Be very careful when loosening the wheel cylinder and brake caliper bleeding screws. The bleeder screws often rust in position and may easily break off if forced. To help prevent the possibility of breaking a bleeder screw, spray it with some penetrating oil before attempting to loosen it. Installing a new bleeder screw will often require removal of the component and may include overhaul or replacement of the wheel cylinder/caliper.
  1. Tighten the bleeder screw.
  2. Instruct the assistant to release the brake pedal.
  3. Wait approximately 15 seconds, and instruct the assistant to depress the brake pedal again.

Remember, if the reservoir is allowed to empty of fluid during the procedure, air will be drawn into the system and the bleeding procedure must be restarted at the master cylinder assembly.
  1. Repeat steps C through F until there are no air bubbles present in the container.

  1. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
  2. If the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.
  3. Once all the air is bled from the system, install the bleeder screw caps.
  4. After bleeding, make sure that a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

We have replaced the master cylinder and a square


When bleeding brakes you start with the wheel farther away from the master cylinder, this pushes air and fluid to the master cylinder. then the same with the next farther. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder.

Jan 23, 2010 | 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

I have a 94 cavalier rs and i put a rear wheel cylinder in it and i started to bleed the brakes and i bled the right rear and it bled fine then i went to the side where i put the wheel cylinder in and it...


well sounds like its still full of air youll have to gravity bleed it. if you can leave your car on a steep hill overnight with the rear end up then bleed it the do the same make your front end sit high up overnight then bleed it. air bubbles always try to make their way to the highest point

Oct 19, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

3 Answers

Just replaced master cylinder on 1990 aerostar and bled the brakes, still the pedal goes to floor and i have no brakes


Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.

Apr 29, 2009 | 1986 Ford F 250

1 Answer

No fluid come out when bleeding brakes drivers side front


Brake rubber flex line could be collapsed,,or kinked,,,i suggest loosening of the line at the master cylinder distribution block (this will give you the ability of loosening off one line at a time,,and have some one push the brake pedal down,,if you see fluid at this point then you know it has to be the line or the caliper.
if you get no pressure from the distribution block then its the master cylinders fault

Jan 16, 2009 | 1997 Pontiac Sunfire

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