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Check your battery terminals for corrosion. That will prevent battery from taking proper charge or for that matter supplying enough current to turn over the starter motor.
And make sure that your new alternator is charging properly - when running measure system voltage - should be around 14.3 or environs. If you get reading close to 12 unit is not working!
Sounds like a charging system problem. The engine runs off of the alternator but if it is not charging the battery properly the battery will be drained until I engine will no longer run. You need to get the vehicle to a repair shop to have the battery and charging system check for defects
ck for electrical short draining the bat. recheck batt could be defect. ck all electrical devices in the car to be sure they' re working. A alarm system is a big drain (if u have one)
If it does turn over and electrical works, then the problem is unlikely the battery. You can try jump starting. If it cranks when jump-starting it may be a weak battery, starter motor or alternator, but I don't think that this is the problem.
Check if there is spark on all cylinders. Do a code scanning (this car is OBD1, you will need to do the scan at the dealer place or to find a BMW OBD1 tool- Universal OBD2 scanner will not work on a 1994 BMW). If the codes return misfire or mixture related errors check fuel pressure, check sensors and parts that determine the mixture (MAF/MAP, AIT, O2 sensors, IAC and EGR system), check the vacuum system for leaks and check the crank sensor.
SOUND LIKE DEAD BATTERY CHECK BATTERY VOLTS SHOULD BE 12.6 VOLTS IF NOT BATTERY DEAD.REASON BATTERY DEAD EITHER FROM OLD AGE OR ALTERNATOR FAILURE. FIRST TURN OFF RADIO AND REMOVE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE. REMOVE ALTERNATOR HAVE A AUTO PARTS STORE CHECK OUT ALTERNATOR SEE IF ALTERNATOR FAULTY.IF ALTERNATOR OKAY BATTERY CABLES CORRODED CHECK ALTERNATOR FUSE AND CHECK ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL WIRES FOR DAMAGE DO THIS PROCEDURE ONLY IF ALTERNATOR YOU HAD CHECK OUT WAS OKAY.
If both the alternator and the battery are good, either the alternator isn't turning fast enough (slipping belt or engine idle speed too slow), or you have a wiring problem.
To check your wiring, look for the "1" terminal on the back of the alternator (left side of spade terminal connector). When you turn the ignition key to the run position without starting the engine, the alternator warning light should be at full brightness. If the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not get the excitation current it needs to start up (it goes through the bulb). With the engine running, you should measure 12 Volts at the 1 terminal (this is the excitation terminal).
Another thing to check is whether the battery charge wire is good. If it is corroded inside at the battery clamp end or burned out, you won't get charging even though the alternator appears to be working. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can make a quick test by adding a new 8 AWG wire between the output terminal and the battery clamp. If the battery now charges, the original wire is bad. If this works, I recommend installing an inline fuse at the alternator end no larger than the largest size used in your electrical system, just in case something happens to the jumper wire. That way you won't burn out your alternator.
The heater/AC issue could very likely be a separate problem, but inadequate power may keep that system from running properly. (Note: low idle speed or belt problems will also be detrimental to AC performance.)
-CHECK A-LTERNATOR FUSE MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT NOT SLIPPING.CHECK TO MAKE SURE RED SMALL POSITIVE WIRE TO BATTERY CABLE IS GOING TO ALTERNATOR.CHECK ALTERNATOR FIELD WIRE MAKE SURE ITS NOT DAMAGED.
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