Question about 1995 Toyota 4Runner
U can buy the gage at most NAPA stores, it is a universal type, it hooks up at the fuel rail that feeds the injectors on the top of the engine, the fuel pump may have been damaged by the dried gas, that is a common problem when a car sets this long, fuel has a 1 year self life, after that it turns to gunk and can damage system component's, also change the fuel filter.
Posted on Sep 02, 2010
You will have to get your fuel pressure checked.It can be checked at any local car garage.If the pressure is low then the problem relates to faulty fuel pump and clogged fuel filter.Get the pressure checked.
There are some possibilities which you
will have to check in this case:--
1) First of all check the power and voltage to the battery. With meter it will show exact 12 volt if the battery is charged. If the voltage is less get the battery charged at local auto repair shop. If the battery is internally drained and not getting charged then its time to replace the battery.
2) When you crank the car do you see spark coming at the spark plug? If no then its time to check the spark plugs and coil pack. If the spark plugs are not worn out and looks new then its time to check coil pack. The spark plug gets power to spark from coil pack.
3) The other thing to check in this case is the starter solenoid of the car. If the battery is charged and you start the car then it gives power to the starter to start the car. But if starter is faulty or not connected properly then car will not start.
4) The other thing to check in this case is fuel in the car. If there is fuel in the car then check the blockages in the fuel pump if the fuel pump looks proper then check the fuel filter above the fuel pump.
5) If all the above possibilities mentioned above checked out OK/perfect then it’s a electrical issue and the wiring's in the car needs to be checked. The car gets power from the battery to get started. so the wires from battery needs to be checked one by one.
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Posted on Sep 02, 2010
Hi! Looks pretty much a transmission problem. Since this car was sitting for a while the transmission fluid may have sludge build up. I strongly suggest that you drain the transmission fluid and fill a new one. Replacing the filter will be necessary too. Try it and see how it goes. Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
Posted on Sep 02, 2010
If the fuel pump is not delivering adequate fuel pressure and volume to the engine, the engine may not start or run properly. Low fuel pressure can cause hard starting, a rough idle, misfiring, hesitation and stalling. No fuel pressure will prevent the engine from starting, or will cause the engine to quit running if the fuel pump fails while driving.
Fuel injected engines are very sensitive to fuel pressure as well as fuel volume. Low pressure will cause starting and driveability problems. A pump that can deliver adequate pressure but not enough volume may allow the engine to start and idle normally, but it will starve the engine for fuel and cause a loss of power when the engine is under load, accelerating hard or cruising at highway speeds.
A dead fuel pump can prevent an engine from starting, but so can a problem with the ignition system or the engine itself (such as a broken timing belt).
The first thing to check would be spark. This can be done by connecting a spark plug tester to a plug wire while the engine is cranking. The tester must be grounded to the engine block for a good electrical connection.
CAUTION: Do not touch any of the spark plug wires
while the engine is being cranked or you may get a bad shock!
If an engine has a coil-on-plug ignition system, and it is possible to remove one of the coils, do so and place a spark plug in the end of the coil. Then place the coil and plug so the plug is touching metal on the engine.
If the ignition system is working properly, you should see a series of sparks while cranking the engine. No spark would indicate an ignition problem such as a bad crankshaft position sensor, ignition module or ignition coil.
Next, check the timing belt if the engine has an overhead camshaft and rubber timing belt. The belt is usually enclosed inside a plastic cover on the end of the engine. Removing a couple of screws from the cover and pulling the cover back should allow you to see the belt. If the belt looks okay, and turns when the engine is cranked, compression is probably not your problem. Timing belts can jump time if they loosen up or if the cogs on the underside of the belt become damaged. It's also possible for the overhead camshaft to seize or break if the engine has run low on oil or has overheated. But if the cam gear turns when the engine is cranked, that's probably not the problem either.
CAUTION: Keep your fingers away from the belt and gears while cranking the engine!
If ignition and compression are both OK, that leaves a lack of fuel as the most likely cause of the no start. But is it the fuel pump or something else?
Possible causes of a fuel-related no start include:
1. A dead fuel pump (could be the pump, pump relay pump fuse or a fault in the pump wiring circuit)
2. A plugged fuel filter
3. Low fuel pressure (weak pump, restricted fuel line, low voltage to the pump)
If the pump runs and generates normal pressure to the engine, but the engine still does not start, the problem may be:
1. No voltage to the fuel injectors (blown injector fuse or bad relay)
2. No pulse signal to the injectors from the PCM (no crank or cam sensor input to the PCM, or a bad driver circuit in the PCM, or a wiring harness problem)
3. A shorted fuel injector (robs voltage from the other injectors so none will operate)
Fuel Pump Checks
One of the first things to check is the fuel pump. Does the pump run when the engine is cranking? The pump should make a little noise. No noise would tell you the pump is not spinning.
On most vehicles the pump is energized by the PCM via a relay. When the ignition key is first turned on, the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for a couple of seconds so the pump will run to build up pressure. The PCM then shuts off the fuel pump relay (which turns off the pump) if it does not receive an rpm signal from the engine indicating the engine has started after cranking. The pump circuit also may be wired though an oil pressure switch and/or an inertia safety switch that kills the pump in case of an accident. Refer to the wiring diagram to find out what is involved before jumping to any conclusions.
Other electrical problems that can affect the pump include low voltage in the pump's power supply circuit or high resistance in the pump's ground connection. Either may prevent the pump from running or spinning fast enough to generate normal fuel pressure.
Measuring Fuel Pump Pressure
Depending on the application, the fuel system may require anywhere from 30 to 80 psi of fuel pressure to start and run. NOTE: Fuel injected engines are VERY sensitive to fuel pressure. If pressure at the engine fuel rail is even a couple pounds less than specifications, the engine may not start or run well, or experience hesitation or stalling problems.
Pressure specifications will vary according to the type of fuel injection system on the engine as well as the performance, fuel economy and emission requirements of that particular model year vehicle. There are no rules of thumb. Every application is different, so always look up the pressure specs when troubleshooting fuel-related performance problems.
When there is too much fuel pressure, the engine runs rich. This causes an increase in fuel consumption and carbon monoxide (CO) emissions. An engine that is running really rich also may experience a rough idle, surging and possibly even carbon-fouled spark plugs.
When there is not enough fuel pressure, the engine may not start. Or if it does, it may idle roughly and run poorly. Low fuel pressure creates a lean fuel condition that can cause lean misfire, hesitation, rough idle, hesitation and misfire on acceleration.
To check fuel pressure, you need a gauge and a place to attach it. There are a number of different checks that can be made, including static or rest pressure (key on, engine off), residual fuel pressure, running pressure, maximum or "dead head" pressure and volume of fuel delivered. The fuel pressure regulator also should be tested, and a fuel pressure drop test performed to check for dirty fuel injectors.
Different vehicle manufacturers recommend different test procedures. On many European EFI systems, the OEMs recommend using a static pressure test with the engine and ignition off. This is done by bypassing the fuel pump relay and energizing the pump directly. Most domestic and Asian vehicle manufacturers, on the other hand, provide a test fitting on the fuel rail so pressure can be checked with the engine running.
If you are working on a vehicle that does not have a pressure test fitting, you will have to tee a pressure gauge into the fuel line just ahead of the injector fuel rail.
Keep us updates.
Posted on Sep 02, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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